Reduction plan for phosphates

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Tango2

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I've been battling bubble algae problems for quite some time, and suspected a phosphate problem but had never confirmed it. Manual removal proved successful, but not for long - the algae would quickly return. No real issues with anything except for bubble algae.

My tank was originally setup skimmerless, and I'm sure I neglected some water changes along the way. My chaeto grows like mad! About a year ago, I added a skimmer, and towards the end of September I also added a GFO reactor. I've cut feedings to twice a week with my auto feeder, and maybe one frozen feeding over the weekend. I have also recently setup a continuous water change setup that I'm currently changing 40-50 gallons/month in two minute intervals, 10 times each night.

I finally confirmed the culprit by ordering a Hanna phosphorus tester. My first test showed 11ppb, or .034 ppm phosphate.

I'm trying to get a good plan to solve my problem. I may just need to let things work out now that I have a couple things in place to deal with this. I've started to read up on vodka/vinegar dosing, and wondered if this would be something worth looking into. If I could eliminate this overnight, I'd love to, but I know better than thinking anything happens quick in this hobby.

Any thoughts on a good plan for restoring reduced phosphate levels?
 
Bubble algae (valonia) is one of the pest s that is not easily defeated by reducing nutrients because it is presumably able to get adequate nutrients from the levels required for the inverts we like to keep (such as corals). Other methods of valonia removal, such as manual removal or creatures that eat it are usually the best way to go.

That said, reducing the nutrients may slow the growth. Water changes are not usually the best way for phosphate. Even a 100% water change won't remove a lot of it because it is partly bound to rocks and sand and then comes off into the new water. But there are many ways to reduce it. 0.03 ppm is not all that high, IMO. I'd target 0.01 to 0.02 ppm.

This has more on how to reduce phosphate:

Phosphate In The Reef Aquarium
 
Ive read this a few times. Does it mean you can still have organic phos present with a zero reading
 
Ive read this a few times. Does it mean you can still have organic phos present with a zero reading

Does what mean that? While that is true, I do not think it is the cause of anything I mentioned. :)
 
Randy,
Thanks for the reply. It's an honor to get your opinion on this, as I know you are a resource to the reefing community.

I have been trying to do manual removal and have added a couple emerald crabs to assist as well. I've read many articles and posts on the subject (many were written by you), but am still no expert on the subject. I do understand that many times the phosphate isn't in the water, it is in the "stuff" that's in the water (rocks, sand, etc.)

BTW, I believe you meant this article:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php

I've read through that, and am doing all of the mitigation steps outlined with the exception of #5 to some degree. The main one I'm not doing fully is kalk dosing. I'm currently adding kalk to my topoff water, but only at the rate of 6 tsp per 5 gallons of ATO. I'm in zone 2 so I'm gradually upping my dosing.

Should I just hold my course and continue to monitor for a while, or should I be more aggressive in my attempt to remedy this problem? Aside from my phosphate levels and valonia growth, the overall health of the tank is pretty stable.
 
I would love to add a foxface, but in a 45G tank I've talked myself out of it each time I considered it. I do believe that would be the best option, and would love to be able to add one, even if only temporarily.
 

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