oliverout
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Hi sorry for not clarifying it is a captive raised acro.
!!!REEF 911 with Adam at Battlecorals!!!
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OP
OP
Hi there,
hey really sorry for the lag on this one I totally missed us but generally I would say no, that when one acro is crashing its more than likely not going spread all the rest of your Acro's. as in something contagious, at least in my case which is fortunate. Otherwise id have been belly up years ago. lol but that doesn't mean whatever else is causing it to crash, wont cause others to do the same. I generally don't feel that the actual necrosis is not contagious in that regard. and sometimes acros just crash for reasons we may never be aware of. ( also no stranger this phenomenon)
but I am curious to know how long the colony had been in there, and since it took me this long to respond ( sorry) if anything else is/has gone downhill it at this point? otherwise params look good
OP
OP
Hilarious! Thanks a bazillion!
OP
OP
Hi there,
thanks for.clarifying. OK well in this case or in any instance of maybe one single frag struggling while everything else is generally doing well, I just call a fluke and try not to get too stressed out about it. I know it doesn't help much but sometimes you just can't make them all happy all the time. if we start chasing things to make one lone coral happy we run the risk of messing things up for the ones that are doing well. it's a tough line to walk and can definitely make someone feel helpless but keeping multiple sps long term, is a massive balancing act in this regard. how would you say the rest of the tank is looking at this point?
InvaderJim
Chillin
No worries.
so initially when I was putting in the SPS they would look great for a week or so then gradually decline. Great polyp extension and just slowly loose tissue. I have actually had a monti cap and a monti spongodes colony that I have had a few years and they are still kicking.
I took the advice of Big E and removed my filter roller and discontinued all dosing. My tank seemingly did a 180 over the course of a few weeks. I almost lost the cap and the spongodes was losing tissue at the tips. Not only did they get their color back they are regrowing tissue back over the dead parts. New test pieces are also doing well.
could the filter roller really have been the problem this whole time? I also started dosing zeobak and iodine about a month ago so I’m not sure if that helped. Very weird situation
OP
OP
ill confess I am always suspicious of additives. I once had myself convinced that my frequent iodine dosing were causing me massive issues. still not sure about that one. lol. but Big E's advice was spot on if you ask me. Shed any and all seemingly unnecessary things when troubleshooting for sure. and get back to basics. I am also a little suspicious of filter rolls. this is the one and only thing that goes in a tank that does not get fully rinsed and washed before hand. I have not seen where these are made, but I would be surprised if it's a sterile lab type environment. lol. any insights into this would be greatly appreciated in fact.
hotdrop
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Do you dose anything?
I’ve really been struggling with colors. All my colors shifted to some shade of green. Brighter Yellows became greenish yellow, rainbows becoming greenish brown. And pinks/blues are just sort of pale. Any thoughts on how to diagnose? I’m running 4 year T5s so idk if that’s contributing, seems like colors on t5 is hard to get.
OP
OP
I think I am a little behind the curve on this one. actually but. for the most part no, in my main. the backup is a little different in that I have a very low fish load in there and do add nitrate on occasion.
StatelineReefer
Reef Safe With Caution
I don't think it's spectrum as much as intensity when you get green... To be clear, is it GFP or just green shading?
OP
OP
yep I agree. usually that "transitional" green is more lighting and or nutrients for sure. although bluer led can visually make an OK green look impressively yellow regardless of the actual pigment coloration.
hotdrop
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More light is probably the issue though T5 can’t really provide much more power. I’m using a 6 bulb ATI over a 20” wide tank. Is it actually possible to get decent colors on T5? Does extended photo period help or is intensity the only thing that affects cops?
it’s it even possible to get good coloring under T5? Or does it always shift green due to lower intensity? A lot of photos lie about color so it’s hard for me to judge what’s normal, but I do think they were all more yellow when I got them from you 2-3 years ago
OP
OP
curious what bulb combo, and about how high off the water surface is it mounted?
hotdrop
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It was about 12” off I moved it down to 6” off the top of the tank last week to see if that helps. Probably about 16-20” from light to frag. Using ATI 4 blue 1 antic, 1 coral plus. I’m open to swapping them out since they are 4+ years old.
Im trying to understand if it’s just the tank isn’t stable or well fed enough or if it’s a light problem/limitation of t5
hotdrop
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Going to double post with a bit more info, i think i might have found my problem.
I measured the light to coral distance looks like its 18-20"
I checked my light settings and noticed my photo period was really short 8 hrs total with 1.5 hrs ramp at dawn and .5 at night so only about 6 hrs at full intensity. Im thinking I need to slowly ramp that up to 8-12 hrs of photo period. Any recomendations on how long to shoot for?
I measured the light to coral distance looks like its 18-20"
I checked my light settings and noticed my photo period was really short 8 hrs total with 1.5 hrs ramp at dawn and .5 at night so only about 6 hrs at full intensity. Im thinking I need to slowly ramp that up to 8-12 hrs of photo period. Any recomendations on how long to shoot for?
StatelineReefer
Reef Safe With Caution
I would do actinic, blue, coral plus, blue, blue, actinic. In that order, front to back.
11 hours until you color up, then back down to 8
penguinexdeus
Poor Decision Maker
Looking for some help/ suggestions on what i fear is likely STN... a few acros turning white from base heading upwards. Not new growth i don't think because there had been tissue there previously and these areas don't fluoresce in UV. Parameters are/ have been stable with alk around 8.3, calc around 420, mag about 1450, ph 8.1-8.3, Nitrate about 12 and phos around 0.08. Par is around 250 for where these are at. My max par at the moment is about 300. about 10hr light cycle that ramps up and peaks in middle and then ramps down. Neptune Skys so i hope diffusion is adequate enough.
I dose live phyto daily, and sporadically (not consistently) use Korallen-Zucht flatworm stop (haven't seen flatworms, just figure it's good to use) and some other KZ things like coral love. Last ICP test was last month with no issues other than low iodine which i dosed to to try and raise. Had been using microbacter 7 and waterglass often in order to combat dinos in combination with pods etc... so i did have another ugly stage a few weeks ago but neither of these frags were overrun by algae.
The one frag is my rainbow's army growout contest frag having some recession around base. The other is an aquatic man table that was doing find a few weeks ago, but i decided to move off the frag rack onto rockwork. I have another random tenuis that is doing same on a frag rack (but has reached higher up the frag).
Any suggestions for stopping/ reversing this? maybe move to lower light? Initially I thought maybe not enough light or maybe they were shading themselves out so I had moved the table more directly under the light to try to reduce shadowing (par move was very similar), but I'm not so sure after checking par and having other corals nearby perfectly happy and growing. I haven't wanted to mess with lighting or flow for fear of creating new problems, but I'm open to suggestions. Any thoughts on actions? Best just to leave it alone and hope for best?
Tank is only 9 months old so it is fairly young though I have some live rock and this may just be part of the game at this point... just sad to have some things thriving and some that appear to be heading south.
sorry for dirty glass - i think i may have won fight against dinos this past week but I haven't cleaned glass yet around frag racks.
I dose live phyto daily, and sporadically (not consistently) use Korallen-Zucht flatworm stop (haven't seen flatworms, just figure it's good to use) and some other KZ things like coral love. Last ICP test was last month with no issues other than low iodine which i dosed to to try and raise. Had been using microbacter 7 and waterglass often in order to combat dinos in combination with pods etc... so i did have another ugly stage a few weeks ago but neither of these frags were overrun by algae.
The one frag is my rainbow's army growout contest frag having some recession around base. The other is an aquatic man table that was doing find a few weeks ago, but i decided to move off the frag rack onto rockwork. I have another random tenuis that is doing same on a frag rack (but has reached higher up the frag).
Any suggestions for stopping/ reversing this? maybe move to lower light? Initially I thought maybe not enough light or maybe they were shading themselves out so I had moved the table more directly under the light to try to reduce shadowing (par move was very similar), but I'm not so sure after checking par and having other corals nearby perfectly happy and growing. I haven't wanted to mess with lighting or flow for fear of creating new problems, but I'm open to suggestions. Any thoughts on actions? Best just to leave it alone and hope for best?
Tank is only 9 months old so it is fairly young though I have some live rock and this may just be part of the game at this point... just sad to have some things thriving and some that appear to be heading south.
sorry for dirty glass - i think i may have won fight against dinos this past week but I haven't cleaned glass yet around frag racks.
hotdrop
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I think you were right, it’s only been a week since I moved the light down and added a bit more time and colors are coming in. I also got a yellow filter for the phone that helps
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My well has a raw TDS of 1500, I have a softener and a chlorinator dechlorinator. Currently only using one ro membrane with a pressure pump, a sediment and two carbon blocks, then into two mixed DI resin filters to get zero out. I recharge my DI but now you've got me thinking that two ro membranes with the effluent from the first going to the second might be a good idea.
100gallonreefer
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@Battlecorals Hey Adam, I have an ugly brown Efflo that keeps coming back no matter how much I try to scrape it off rockscape. It literraly takes over and kills any acros close to it. Any ideas On how to kill it without messing up chemistry on the tank? Cant remove rock from tank, it’s in middle of scape.
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