Reef Brite halide system users.

[A. grandis]

After I read one of the posts I want to know more about the Reef Brite halide systems.
Here is the link for the post I'm talking about:
htts://www.reef2reef.com/threads/radium-vs-hamilton-20k-spectrum.336497/page-3#post-4198819

I would like to hear from you guys about it's performance using the ballast with Radium and other bulbs, and other fixtures.
Would it be better to use the whole system?
I believe their wire connections are different than Luxcore and other fixtures, like the Spectra...
Their Twin-Arc bulbs are unique and supposed to have better efficiency.
I think they have a dimmable ballast too..

Let me know your thoughts and what this technology is really about, please.
Feel fee to post pictures too.
Lets have fun learning.
Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

The more I search, the more impressed I am!
Found also this article from November 2013.;Wideyed
https://reefbuilders.com/2013/11/19/wireless-dimmable-metal-halide-ballast-coming-reefbrite/

Back then they were already talking about the dimmable wireless halide ballast?
This is very nice stuff. Anyone using it?
Grandis.

 

[Reefbrite]

The dimmable ballast features actual incremental dimming and is APEX compatible. It is also very energy efficient. The ballast is set to a maximum dimming value of 30-35%. The reason for this is to maintain a stable arc in the lamp itself. The pendant itself runs a lot cooler especially for a MH system and uses no fans. For a video of the system in use

 

[reefwiser]

I don’t use the twin arc bulbs just a simple MH Reefbrite fixture.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/15-de-led-mh-hybrid-pendant-reef-brite.html

I had went thru black box LED’s kessil’s and Ecotech radion gen 3 pro’s on my current tank. As I keep SPS I wanted good lighting. Going thru LED lights I was not happy with the shadowing effects on SPS plus the hot stops made placing the corals complicated. So I talked to old friends at MACNA to see what they think I should do. Tullio said his small 150 watt fixture with the Reefbrite would be the best for me. An I have been very happy with the choice.

I don’t have to worry about lighting and can move on to chemistry and stability.
An it is way cheaper to purchase and I am getting great bulb life with the electronic ballast.
Heat has never need a issue an this is a small tank 40 gallons.

 

[A. grandis]

The dimmable ballast features actual incremental dimming and is APEX compatible. It is also very energy efficient. The ballast is set to a maximum dimming value of 30-35%. The reason for this is to maintain a stable arc in the lamp itself. The pendant itself runs a lot cooler especially for a MH system and uses no fans. For a video of the system in use

Thanks for coming here!!!
Well... it sounds/looks very nice and I hope we've got many members here to share their experiences.
Is it supposed to be installed parallel to the systems, like in the video? I remember when I had my PFO pendants they were to be installed perpendicular to the tanks. Or perhaps it doesn't matter? I'm asking because those fixtures look like the old PFO fixtures I've had.
Is it ok and safe to use other bulbs with the system? What about other ballasts, like the Luxcore? I believe that what makes the system unique temperature wise would be the ballast it self, right?

We are aware of the recommended ballast for the Radiums to be M80 ballasts. Could we use the Radium bulb with the ReefBrite system (ballast/fixture) without any problems, once it is supposed to "read" the bulbs?

I've noticed that the wire connectors are different than the majority of the other ballasts/ fixtures. Does that mean we should use only the Reef Brite as a complete system and not to try get another ballast with the Reef Brite fixture, or another fixture with the Reef Brite ballast?
Thanks.

Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

I don’t use the twin arc bulbs just a simple MH Reefbrite fixture.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/15-de-led-mh-hybrid-pendant-reef-brite.html

I had went thru black box LED’s kessil’s and Ecotech radion gen 3 pro’s on my current tank. As I keep SPS I wanted good lighting. Going thru LED lights I was not happy with the shadowing effects on SPS plus the hot stops made placing the corals complicated. So I talked to old friends at MACNA to see what they think I should do. Tullio said his small 150 watt fixture with the Reefbrite would be the best for me. An I have been very happy with the choice.

I don’t have to worry about lighting and can move on to chemistry and stability.
An it is way cheaper to purchase and I am getting great bulb life with the electronic ballast.
Heat has never need a issue an this is a small tank 40 gallons.

How much does the fixture add to the temperature of the tank?
That is a bright bulb!!!! Is that 10K?
Grandis.

 

[Reefbrite]

The key to the operating temperature of the system is actually the pendant itself and not the ballast. While the pendant can be used with other lamps and ballasts it is recommended that you use the Reef Brite ballast to avoid any wiring issues. The ballast also operates rather cool for a MH ballast and is very efficient. Due to the special microprocessor the ballast can detect/run Mogul based, HQI, and even HPS lamps automatically with no special settings and yes lamps like the Radiums work very well with the system. The ballast actually monitors the lamp installed to keep it operating at peak output throughout the life of the lamp.

 

[A. grandis]

The key to the operating temperature of the system is actually the pendant itself and not the ballast. While the pendant can be used with other lamps and ballasts it is recommended that you use the Reef Brite ballast to avoid any wiring issues. The ballast also operates rather cool for a MH ballast and is very efficient. Due to the special microprocessor the ballast can detect/run Mogul based, HQI, and even HPS lamps automatically with no special settings and yes lamps like the Radiums work very well with the system. The ballast actually monitors the lamp installed to keep it operating at peak output throughout the life of the lamp.

Thanks!
Please tell us more about the different ballasts available and their differences.
I'm not sure about the other people, but I wonder why this system isn't one of the most available and talked about!
It's very tempting! I think the wire compatibility is what drives people away from it?
Grandis.

 

[kalare]

People are on the LED bandwagon right now. Halides are out of style.

I love my ReefBrite system. I use the twin arc 10k/20k and am super happy with them. Have the 10k on during the day, 20k on in the evening after a 2 min cooldown, all Apex controlled. I like the 10k look personally, not the biggest fan of the super unnatural blue look of 20k. 10k looks very natural (even maybe a bit blue) when compared to snorkeling and diving on a real reef.

 

[Ztrain]

The ballast also operates rather cool for a MH ballast and is very efficient.

Today was my first full six hour run with the setup and this is a very true statement. I was wondering how long it would take to warm up looking at the large heatsink on the surface. By six hour mark it was warm but not hot even. If I waited till the end of day I could put a bowl with a block of mysis on top to thaw a bit faster maybe but not much.

Pardon my hair I'm still converting over to a hairless system. The system for two years was run as a fish only with hairy rock.

 

[Ztrain]

First picture decided to snap as I was installing but before I took the prior light off. If you look at the bottom you can see how dark the tank looks. This was at 50% brightness using CoralLabs AB+
Second is 10k mode
Third is 20k
Fourth is XHO's only

I was just thinking. Once the Apex is hooked up and controlling the system I wonder could it dim the fixture based on heat? I haven't noticed a heat issue with it today but if it was the summer and say the central air broke or something the Apex could sense the rise in temp and automatically half the halide output. Still getting some light to corals but less heat maybe?

 

[Breadman03]

I’m sure the Apex could do that.

 

[A. grandis]

People are on the LED bandwagon right now. Halides are out of style.

I love my ReefBrite system. I use the twin arc 10k/20k and am super happy with them. Have the 10k on during the day, 20k on in the evening after a 2 min cooldown, all Apex controlled. I like the 10k look personally, not the biggest fan of the super unnatural blue look of 20k. 10k looks very natural (even maybe a bit blue) when compared to snorkeling and diving on a real reef.

I agree with the 10K observations. The fact that we could use of both spectra to offer the corals different properties of light is great. One can think of using the 10K side of the bulb for day time and the blue side of the bulb for evening, like you do.
I would keep some T5s on between the 2 colors, during your 2 min cooling time... Do you have T5s?
Thanks for sharing!!
Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

First picture decided to snap as I was installing but before I took the prior light off. If you look at the bottom you can see how dark the tank looks. This was at 50% brightness using CoralLabs AB+
Second is 10k mode
Third is 20k
Fourth is XHO's only

I was just thinking. Once the Apex is hooked up and controlling the system I wonder could it dim the fixture based on heat? I haven't noticed a heat issue with it today but if it was the summer and say the central air broke or something the Apex could sense the rise in temp and automatically half the halide output. Still getting some light to corals but less heat maybe?

Very nice of you to put the pictures with the different lights of the fixture.
That feature with Apex is indeed very nice.
Feel free to ask any questions to Reef Brite here.
This is the thread for you guys who have or want to get the system!!
Grandis.

 

[Ztrain]

Whooops. I could have saved 125 bucks on this setup. The pendants are on sale at BRS right now!

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/15-se-led-mh-pendant-with-reef-brite.html

 

[A. grandis]

Hey guys, look what I found:
The Twin-Arc bulb works only with the Reef Brite ballast. If we use it with another ballast we'll have flickering issues!
Well, that ballast is indeed very nice. I think it's worthy to get it because besides using with the Twin-Arc we can use with other bulbs as well.
Very interesting!
Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

Whooops. I could have saved 125 bucks on this setup. The pendants are on sale at BRS right now!

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/15-se-led-mh-pendant-with-reef-brite.html

Oh, sorry!
They are giving ~30% off! ;Wideyed Tempting!! I would have to get 2 though!
You should cover your skimmer. The coralline algae will grow inside after a while!!

Reef Brite:
What would be the difference between the 250W and the 400W fixtures?
Most fixtures are made to be used with 150W, 175W, 250W or 400W bulbs.

Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

So do we have 2 cords for each fixture with LEDs?
One for the halide and other cord for the LEDs?
How long are the cords?
I would think one cord goes to the halide ballast and the other goes to the wall?

Oh how I wish they had T5s instead of the LEDs. That would be the best!!!

Thanks!
Grandis.

 

[Ztrain]

So do we have 2 cords for each fixture with LEDs?
One for the halide and other cord for the LEDs?
How long are the cords?
I would think one cord goes to the halide ballast and the other goes to the wall?

They do have a pendant only for about 160ish I think with no LEDs. But since I'm going to be using this as my only light I picked up the XHO strips on it. No regrets about that. Amazing looking. They can be added to any light setup but these are cool because their the size of the fixture . There's 3 cords. One that goes from the MH to the Ballast. Then there's a thin cord coming off each of the LEDs. They go in to a splitter that then gets connected to the power supply. So 3 cables off the fixture two going in to the wall. Tonight I was looking at the Apex controller for the LEDs. Literally the whole thing can be rampable on the Apex. Only thing is you have two color temp presets. Which is fine because with the Radions I was only running the AB+ anyways.

 

[A. grandis]

They do have a pendant only for about 160ish I think with no LEDs. But since I'm going to be using this as my only light I picked up the XHO strips on it. No regrets about that. Amazing looking. They can be added to any light setup but these are cool because their the size of the fixture . There's 3 cords. One that goes from the MH to the Ballast. Then there's a thin cord coming off each of the LEDs. They go in to a splitter that then gets connected to the power supply. So 3 cables off the fixture two going in to the wall. Tonight I was looking at the Apex controller for the LEDs. Literally the whole thing can be rampable on the Apex. Only thing is you have two color temp presets. Which is fine because with the Radions I was only running the AB+ anyways.

Many people who are looking for halides as a primary source of light will be happy with these fixtures!! Specially the ones that like the "pop" from blue LEDs.
I just love my T5s too much and if I had to get these fixtures for another built I would make an open canopy for some DIY tubes with retros and their plain halide fixtures with their ballasts. I would love to try those Twin-Arc bulbs too.
I do see the nice combo of spectrum shining on that video with the LEDs. I really like the fact that there is hardly heat emission. That fixture reminds me an old style fixture with blue PCs back in the day... I think they were PFO fixtures.
I remember that Lumen Max fixtures had some of the vents like that too, and they had serious reflectors!
I think that ballast could be the very best available today!?!

I'm thinking about that feature of turning on the 10K side for like 2 or 3 hours and the blue side for 2 or 3 more. That way there is no need for actinic T5s and I would be set with the halide fixture alone. Hummmm...

This is great!!

Grandis.