Reef Diaries: 56G Reef Savvy
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OP
OP
Will do, that's one thing I'm trying to track. From brown/frag to grown out. How long and how well the coral is doing.
If you google algae scrubber, better yet R2R has an algae scrubber thread. It's pretty straight forward building it and it works.
Some of the pictures are underwater and others are outside the tank. I use to do professional photography so it goes hand and hand. Thank you!
OP
OP
Heres another photo dump:
Baby Pink Lemonade that was browned out, coming to life!
ORA Joe the Coral? It was once a really ugly brown stick
Incredible Hulk
Red Robin
Baby Pink Lemonade that was browned out, coming to life!
ORA Joe the Coral? It was once a really ugly brown stick
Incredible Hulk
Red Robin
OP
OP
Some updates on my frag tank that will be plumbed into my system eventually. I decided to sell my DC9000 and order 2 DC12000, one as a back up or change out when I want to service the other pump.
I decided to redo the seals on the inside since they looked like crap. Cleaned up everything!
Taped it up for clean lines:
Everything came out nice till another local reefer told me that the GE Silicone 1 was not recommended for sealing a tank. So I ended up doing a second layer and that was disaster.
Don't have photos of the job after but lets just say far from good, good from really far! LOL
Had to improvise on the tank since it had a 1" hole drilled on the bottom panel. Easy way would be to seal it up, but I decided to use it as an emergency drain. Drilled another 1" on the tank and 2 accidental 3/4" returns. They were suppose to be 1/2" but some reducers will fix that real quick. An overflow box still needs to be made and installed.
I decided to redo the seals on the inside since they looked like crap. Cleaned up everything!
Taped it up for clean lines:
Everything came out nice till another local reefer told me that the GE Silicone 1 was not recommended for sealing a tank. So I ended up doing a second layer and that was disaster.
Don't have photos of the job after but lets just say far from good, good from really far! LOL
Had to improvise on the tank since it had a 1" hole drilled on the bottom panel. Easy way would be to seal it up, but I decided to use it as an emergency drain. Drilled another 1" on the tank and 2 accidental 3/4" returns. They were suppose to be 1/2" but some reducers will fix that real quick. An overflow box still needs to be made and installed.
OP
OP
Did some work on the stand as well:
Nothing to catch on here! No sliding around either! Still need to waterproof it, that will be next weeks project.
Decided to use armacell instead of normal foam, best of all its black!
Mock up:
Manifold system:
Plastic strap to secure it in place with armacell to reduce vibrations and movement:
Reef Octopus OCT-CR140 Calcium Reactor:
Nothing to catch on here! No sliding around either! Still need to waterproof it, that will be next weeks project.
Decided to use armacell instead of normal foam, best of all its black!
Mock up:
Manifold system:
Plastic strap to secure it in place with armacell to reduce vibrations and movement:
Reef Octopus OCT-CR140 Calcium Reactor:
Last edited:
OP
OP
Here are some frag updates!
Other SPS
Other SPS
OP
OP
Seems like I drifted off into sticks...
OP
OP
Thanks guys. Lots of work has been completed but I'm slow with the photo updates. On another not I've been spending money like no tomorrow, picked up the full Apex to set/mock up. Once things are up and running, I'll be selling everything from my small frag tank system, Apex Lite, Apex Jr, too much crap! I'm glad I'll have only one system to deal with.
OP
OP
Recent harvest from the algae scrubber on the frag tank:
Anticipating the frag tank build, I got ahead of myself and got more equipment. Something I should have just got from the beginning but felt like I would never need, the full Apex system. Got a pretty good deal on the full Apex with extras including an EB8, Breakout Box, & new pH probe. I'll be able to set up an electrical board/compartment while the main and frag tank runs off the Apex Lite and Apex Jr. Before I bought the full Apex, I got extra modules like the PM1 and VDM when in my head, it didn't make much sense to buy them when I could front the cost on the full Apex and sell my Lite & Jr back later and recover the money at a small premium.
I'll be using the 4 channel variable speed ports on the Apex will be controlling the RapidLED Onxy fixtures on the frag tank (3 channels) and the last one will be controlling my DC12000 once I build the wiring harness. 4 T5 bulbs will be mounted along the Onxy fixtures as well. I do plan on using the VDM module to control the WP25s I picked up a while back. Still need to get a WXM module to control my Vortech pumps, currently running two MP40wES on the 56G but might consider adding an additional MP10wES on the back glass once I break down the frag tank, plus I have it already anyways.
I was able to make some nice progress on the frag tank, busy work load and lots of driving at work has been keeping it off.
Local acrylic guru made the box for me. This drain has a gate valve on it and will be pulling a full siphon, the 1" pipe in front of the overflow is an emergency drain. The hole was already there, otherwise the overflow would have housed 2 drains. Could have plugged it but decided to improvise on a negative.
Return manifold for reactors and such
Back of the tank (peninsula style) plumbing
Basically done with the mock up on plumbing. Too bad I was an idiot and didn't fully measure the area where it was going to be placed, turned out the chiller wouldn't fit on the side you see below. :doh:
More updates tomorrow, its getting late but the plumbing is done already.
Anticipating the frag tank build, I got ahead of myself and got more equipment. Something I should have just got from the beginning but felt like I would never need, the full Apex system. Got a pretty good deal on the full Apex with extras including an EB8, Breakout Box, & new pH probe. I'll be able to set up an electrical board/compartment while the main and frag tank runs off the Apex Lite and Apex Jr. Before I bought the full Apex, I got extra modules like the PM1 and VDM when in my head, it didn't make much sense to buy them when I could front the cost on the full Apex and sell my Lite & Jr back later and recover the money at a small premium.
I'll be using the 4 channel variable speed ports on the Apex will be controlling the RapidLED Onxy fixtures on the frag tank (3 channels) and the last one will be controlling my DC12000 once I build the wiring harness. 4 T5 bulbs will be mounted along the Onxy fixtures as well. I do plan on using the VDM module to control the WP25s I picked up a while back. Still need to get a WXM module to control my Vortech pumps, currently running two MP40wES on the 56G but might consider adding an additional MP10wES on the back glass once I break down the frag tank, plus I have it already anyways.
I was able to make some nice progress on the frag tank, busy work load and lots of driving at work has been keeping it off.
Local acrylic guru made the box for me. This drain has a gate valve on it and will be pulling a full siphon, the 1" pipe in front of the overflow is an emergency drain. The hole was already there, otherwise the overflow would have housed 2 drains. Could have plugged it but decided to improvise on a negative.
Return manifold for reactors and such
Back of the tank (peninsula style) plumbing
Basically done with the mock up on plumbing. Too bad I was an idiot and didn't fully measure the area where it was going to be placed, turned out the chiller wouldn't fit on the side you see below. :doh:
More updates tomorrow, its getting late but the plumbing is done already.
OP
OP
I thought all of these guys had died off when I added them to my tank to eat all the aiptesias. Guess not, I've been seeing them periodically.
I'm ashamed on the quality of these photos I'm about to show you guys. LOL
I have to give a lot of respect to guys who have large tank set ups. Looked through countless threads before I came up with what I wanted and felt would work.
Final product after spending over $500 in PVC plumbing alone! Over bought a ton of stuff so I wouldn't have to make multiple trips to Home Depot or Lowes... ended up going to between the two like 12 times! Returned about $235 in PVC so it wasn't so bad. Most of the money went into threaded gate valves, threaded unions, and fittings in case I ever need to tear it apart and rebuild a section.
Anyways, I had to switch everything from one side to the other. Wasn't too hard but it worked out.
Just looking at the photos now, I realized I'm missing two ball valves that are needed. One on the exit of the chiller and then another one after the bypass/union leading to the return water into the tanks. Everything is glued into place except for the chiller section so a majority of it will be easy to add in.
A more thorough explanation of everything works:
Return - Jebao DC12000
1.5" Threaded Union
1.5" True Union Check Valve
1.5" Split into reducers 1.25" & 1"
1" goes into a 1" true union ball valve then into manifold system composed of (1) 3/4" gate valve, (2) 1/2" gate valves, (2) ball valves, and (1) 3/8" John Guest valve (air pressure and water relief valve)
1.25" goes into a 1.25" true union ball valve then into the chiller section
1.25" goes into a tee that leads to a 1.25" gate valve for water bypass, the other one is reduced into a 1" that will feed the chiller
*Reason why I did this was because I wanted to make sure the water feeding the chiller had enough contact time to cool down properly and not go in and out thus not cooling correctly. Bypass will be partially open to reduce pressure build up on the pump while still allowing full flow if desired.
1.25" exits the chiller and continues it way to the return manifold
1.25" manifold are then split into two 3/4" returns, reducers were used to step them down
Each 3/4" gate valves on both for flow control followed by unions to ease the removal if needed for cleaning/servicing
One of the 3/4" will feed the frag tank that splits into two 1/2" exits. The exits have loclines with ball valves on them
The other 3/4" will feed my main tank
Pipe step down/reducing was to reduce the head loss considering how much piping it goes through before entering the tanks.
I see a few faults in the plumbing but it will do for now, I can always improvise later on if things come up.
Some other stuff to add, the plumbing is pretty stiff once everything was glued into place. Vibrations come to mind, its a garage set up but its my OCD ways. I ended up using foam tape on certain areas where contact is made with the stand to prevent it from happening or even pipe rubbing over time can develop holes leaking to leaks (unlikely, LOL)
Next project, lighting the frag tank and the sump area. I'll have more pictures of the frags and stuff up soon.
I'm ashamed on the quality of these photos I'm about to show you guys. LOL
I have to give a lot of respect to guys who have large tank set ups. Looked through countless threads before I came up with what I wanted and felt would work.
Final product after spending over $500 in PVC plumbing alone! Over bought a ton of stuff so I wouldn't have to make multiple trips to Home Depot or Lowes... ended up going to between the two like 12 times! Returned about $235 in PVC so it wasn't so bad. Most of the money went into threaded gate valves, threaded unions, and fittings in case I ever need to tear it apart and rebuild a section.
Anyways, I had to switch everything from one side to the other. Wasn't too hard but it worked out.
Just looking at the photos now, I realized I'm missing two ball valves that are needed. One on the exit of the chiller and then another one after the bypass/union leading to the return water into the tanks. Everything is glued into place except for the chiller section so a majority of it will be easy to add in.
A more thorough explanation of everything works:
Return - Jebao DC12000
1.5" Threaded Union
1.5" True Union Check Valve
1.5" Split into reducers 1.25" & 1"
1" goes into a 1" true union ball valve then into manifold system composed of (1) 3/4" gate valve, (2) 1/2" gate valves, (2) ball valves, and (1) 3/8" John Guest valve (air pressure and water relief valve)
1.25" goes into a 1.25" true union ball valve then into the chiller section
1.25" goes into a tee that leads to a 1.25" gate valve for water bypass, the other one is reduced into a 1" that will feed the chiller
*Reason why I did this was because I wanted to make sure the water feeding the chiller had enough contact time to cool down properly and not go in and out thus not cooling correctly. Bypass will be partially open to reduce pressure build up on the pump while still allowing full flow if desired.
1.25" exits the chiller and continues it way to the return manifold
1.25" manifold are then split into two 3/4" returns, reducers were used to step them down
Each 3/4" gate valves on both for flow control followed by unions to ease the removal if needed for cleaning/servicing
One of the 3/4" will feed the frag tank that splits into two 1/2" exits. The exits have loclines with ball valves on them
The other 3/4" will feed my main tank
Pipe step down/reducing was to reduce the head loss considering how much piping it goes through before entering the tanks.
I see a few faults in the plumbing but it will do for now, I can always improvise later on if things come up.
Some other stuff to add, the plumbing is pretty stiff once everything was glued into place. Vibrations come to mind, its a garage set up but its my OCD ways. I ended up using foam tape on certain areas where contact is made with the stand to prevent it from happening or even pipe rubbing over time can develop holes leaking to leaks (unlikely, LOL)
Next project, lighting the frag tank and the sump area. I'll have more pictures of the frags and stuff up soon.
OP
OP
Got started on my light rack, this is going to be fun! I did a quick search and found a few DIYs and this one seemed to work best, especially around the corners where I know keeping it square would be difficult since I can not weld aluminum.
The goal was to keep it light as possible. I'm not sure if I will be hanging this from the ceiling or build a conduit hanging it from that. Lots of possibilities still out there.
For lighting, I will be going with a custom set up. 4 T5HO 48" and 2 RapidLED Onxy fixtures. For the T5s, I have Icecaps 660s ballast but will not run then due to size as I have other ballast that are slim. They will also have reflectors on them. The Onxy fixtures will be controlled via Apex (VDM) as well as the T5s (EB8).
Hardware - 2" Corner Braces (Qt 2) & 1.25" Angular Aluminum 96" (Qt 2)
Cut to size - 48" (Qt 2) & 24" (Qt 4) Used a scroll saw since thats all I had, that or a jig but the line wouldnt have been as fine.
Corners cut for proper fitment. Used the scroll saw and then a grinder to clean it up.
Used a center punch to mark the holes and then some self tapping screws to make the holes.
Self tapping screws in place!
Study and stiff! Very minimal flexing, this will be resolved once I add a few more brackets on the inside for the RapidLED Onxy fixtures (2)
Had to stop for tonight since I'll be starting work around 6AM. LOL, that and running out of aluminum. Can't wait to start mounting the lights. :rockon:
The goal was to keep it light as possible. I'm not sure if I will be hanging this from the ceiling or build a conduit hanging it from that. Lots of possibilities still out there.
For lighting, I will be going with a custom set up. 4 T5HO 48" and 2 RapidLED Onxy fixtures. For the T5s, I have Icecaps 660s ballast but will not run then due to size as I have other ballast that are slim. They will also have reflectors on them. The Onxy fixtures will be controlled via Apex (VDM) as well as the T5s (EB8).
Hardware - 2" Corner Braces (Qt 2) & 1.25" Angular Aluminum 96" (Qt 2)
Cut to size - 48" (Qt 2) & 24" (Qt 4) Used a scroll saw since thats all I had, that or a jig but the line wouldnt have been as fine.
Corners cut for proper fitment. Used the scroll saw and then a grinder to clean it up.
Used a center punch to mark the holes and then some self tapping screws to make the holes.
Self tapping screws in place!
Study and stiff! Very minimal flexing, this will be resolved once I add a few more brackets on the inside for the RapidLED Onxy fixtures (2)
Had to stop for tonight since I'll be starting work around 6AM. LOL, that and running out of aluminum. Can't wait to start mounting the lights. :rockon:
layball:
OP
OP
Thanks guys.
It's been a few days since I've updated. After a few more trips to Home Depot, I got everything needed to complete my build except the wiring for the T5s. Ballast and power supply will be mounted on an electrical board to keep the weight off the rack. Orginally, I was planning to use bent conduit to hang the rack but weight is now playing a role. More research will need to be done, hanging is a possibility but knowing me I will make it extra technical.
On to the pictures of the lights!
The RapidLED Onxy fixtures are removable as the two U channel aluminum is the only thing holding it in place. No bolts will be used to attached on the rack, brackets are nice and firm.
Hardware from Home Depot to mount them on the U channel:
M6-1.0x40MM (Qt 8)
Washer Galv Bonded Sealing Washer 1/4 Galv (Qt 8) - These have rubber so it seals against the aluminum, water tight to an extent. Wouldn't want the bolts to rust up! Makes it easy to remove and take with me when I go to frag swaps.
Used some foam tape to prevent any scratches on the Onxy fixtures and to keep water out of the bolt holes.
T5s mounted! 2 Blues Plus, 1 Coral Plus, 1 Purple Plus - All ATI
Just need to order some wires from RapidLED and a dimmer as well for the Onxy fixtures. Gotta clear up the garage and move stuff around now.
It's been a few days since I've updated. After a few more trips to Home Depot, I got everything needed to complete my build except the wiring for the T5s. Ballast and power supply will be mounted on an electrical board to keep the weight off the rack. Orginally, I was planning to use bent conduit to hang the rack but weight is now playing a role. More research will need to be done, hanging is a possibility but knowing me I will make it extra technical.
On to the pictures of the lights!
The RapidLED Onxy fixtures are removable as the two U channel aluminum is the only thing holding it in place. No bolts will be used to attached on the rack, brackets are nice and firm.
Hardware from Home Depot to mount them on the U channel:
M6-1.0x40MM (Qt 8)
Washer Galv Bonded Sealing Washer 1/4 Galv (Qt 8) - These have rubber so it seals against the aluminum, water tight to an extent. Wouldn't want the bolts to rust up! Makes it easy to remove and take with me when I go to frag swaps.
Used some foam tape to prevent any scratches on the Onxy fixtures and to keep water out of the bolt holes.
T5s mounted! 2 Blues Plus, 1 Coral Plus, 1 Purple Plus - All ATI
Just need to order some wires from RapidLED and a dimmer as well for the Onxy fixtures. Gotta clear up the garage and move stuff around now.
