Reef Diaries: 56G Reef Savvy
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You can find them on eBay, me and Josh ordered 2 each. One for use and the other one for easy swap out when the time comes for cleaning. They work very well! I would suggest buying threaded versions. Nitrosreef got them local, maybe he will chime in. Eventually I'll drop by to help him with it all, just need to make time.
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Pictures or it didn't happen!
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OP
Here's an update for all you loyal followers!
Haven't got much done over the past few days and even today I didn't get as much as I would have liked.
I did however get started on my electrical panel. Majority of the APEX has been mounted.
This is more or less how everything will sit, most of it is already mounted.
T5 Ballasts upper right hand corner
LED Power Supply Below the T5s
Stenner Pump right below the LED PS
EB8 on the left bottom
APEX base in the center of the EB8 & Stenner
Display on the top left
WXM (VDM in place) under the display once I move everything outside (currently in use on my DT system)
Breakout Box and Wireless adapter in the center
There is more room for other modules if I ever plan to run more. Possibility of running the Jebao DC12000 and WP25s on the Apex variable speed outlet (will need that VDM in this case).
Other notes and thoughts: I had the EB8 and Apex base mounted on the bottom due to wires. It's going to be a mess before I can organize them all.
EB8-1
1 T5 ATI Powermodule DT Blue
2 T5 ATI Powermodule DT White
3
4 T5 Frag Blue
5 T5 Frag White
6 Saltwater Mixing Tank
7 Chiller
8 Stenner
EB8-2
1 DC12000
2 Refugium Light (2)
3 UAS Algae Scrubbers (2)
4 Skimmer
5 pH/Calcium Reactor Solenoid
6
7
8
Apex Base:
V1 to V4 - Controlling RapidLED Onyx Fixture
Another thing I did get done today was the par reading. I'm pleased with the results, plenty of control to turn down or not even use the LEDs. T5s are not dimmable nor would I want them to be. This frag tank is more for LPS/Zoas so low par 100-200 is fine. The light rack is hanging about 30" from the bottom panel of the frag tank. If more power is needed, I can always lower it. Spread is nice and even across the board without too much drop off. Numbers and math is dead on in every aspect when doing the par meter with individual T5 channels and LEDs alone, simple mathematics of adding T5s only to LEDs proves it.
The height which gives me a good viewing angle without having to move the lights to see top down.
RapidLED's par reading of the Onyx dimmable fixture is pretty consistent with my numbers as well with the exception that I am hanging them at 30".
On the list of things to do:
1) Complete repairs to wall
2) Throw out tons of crap and remove wire shelving
3) Paint walls with white gloss paint (prevent water splashing on the walls and rotting the dry wall)
4) Move the frag tank in place
5) Mount the electrical panel
Seems like its going to be another month. lol
Haven't got much done over the past few days and even today I didn't get as much as I would have liked.
I did however get started on my electrical panel. Majority of the APEX has been mounted.
This is more or less how everything will sit, most of it is already mounted.
T5 Ballasts upper right hand corner
LED Power Supply Below the T5s
Stenner Pump right below the LED PS
EB8 on the left bottom
APEX base in the center of the EB8 & Stenner
Display on the top left
WXM (VDM in place) under the display once I move everything outside (currently in use on my DT system)
Breakout Box and Wireless adapter in the center
There is more room for other modules if I ever plan to run more. Possibility of running the Jebao DC12000 and WP25s on the Apex variable speed outlet (will need that VDM in this case).
Other notes and thoughts: I had the EB8 and Apex base mounted on the bottom due to wires. It's going to be a mess before I can organize them all.
EB8-1
1 T5 ATI Powermodule DT Blue
2 T5 ATI Powermodule DT White
3
4 T5 Frag Blue
5 T5 Frag White
6 Saltwater Mixing Tank
7 Chiller
8 Stenner
EB8-2
1 DC12000
2 Refugium Light (2)
3 UAS Algae Scrubbers (2)
4 Skimmer
5 pH/Calcium Reactor Solenoid
6
7
8
Apex Base:
V1 to V4 - Controlling RapidLED Onyx Fixture
Another thing I did get done today was the par reading. I'm pleased with the results, plenty of control to turn down or not even use the LEDs. T5s are not dimmable nor would I want them to be. This frag tank is more for LPS/Zoas so low par 100-200 is fine. The light rack is hanging about 30" from the bottom panel of the frag tank. If more power is needed, I can always lower it. Spread is nice and even across the board without too much drop off. Numbers and math is dead on in every aspect when doing the par meter with individual T5 channels and LEDs alone, simple mathematics of adding T5s only to LEDs proves it.
The height which gives me a good viewing angle without having to move the lights to see top down.
RapidLED's par reading of the Onyx dimmable fixture is pretty consistent with my numbers as well with the exception that I am hanging them at 30".
On the list of things to do:
1) Complete repairs to wall
2) Throw out tons of crap and remove wire shelving
3) Paint walls with white gloss paint (prevent water splashing on the walls and rotting the dry wall)
4) Move the frag tank in place
5) Mount the electrical panel
Seems like its going to be another month. lol
Last edited:
OP
OP
Not sure if I went over it but it's never too late to do so.
The display tank is a custom Reef Savvy tank.
Deminsions:
36" x 20" x 18"
Its a 56 gallon tank.
Current sump is a Trigger System CRYS30E.
OP
OP
I've been monitoring the frag tank as it is, not connected to the main system. Whipped out the full Apex and am using that currently as the Lite and Jr are both in use. One main concern I have is amperage, after doing some quick math, I'll be pulling well over 15 amps which would ultimatly be bad in so tripping the breaker. I do have an outlet in the garage but that is on the ceiling and running an extention cord does sound too clean or nice looking.
After some careful thought, I decided to run certain things that are not needed during the day at night. For example, the biggest amperage puller is the chiller. That combined with the lights pulls about 8-9 amps. If the system were to turn on the mixing station pump, Stenner pump, plus the lights and chiller... big no no. So I've opted via programming for the mixing station and Stenner to come on at night and do their thing, that will help keep the amperage load down on the one circuit.
I'll also be adding a fan to help cool the power supply for the lights. They felt a little hot to the touch but within operating temps according to the labels.
I've also removed the wire shelving and patched up all the holes. It's about ready for paint which will come tomorrow if I don't feel too tired from work. I think two or three coats will do just fine. From there the frag system will be broken down and moved into place. I did find a leak on a threaded fitting, odd as its never leaked before, it's a simple fix as I can valve off the manifold for disassembly and to correct it.
After some careful thought, I decided to run certain things that are not needed during the day at night. For example, the biggest amperage puller is the chiller. That combined with the lights pulls about 8-9 amps. If the system were to turn on the mixing station pump, Stenner pump, plus the lights and chiller... big no no. So I've opted via programming for the mixing station and Stenner to come on at night and do their thing, that will help keep the amperage load down on the one circuit.
I'll also be adding a fan to help cool the power supply for the lights. They felt a little hot to the touch but within operating temps according to the labels.
I've also removed the wire shelving and patched up all the holes. It's about ready for paint which will come tomorrow if I don't feel too tired from work. I think two or three coats will do just fine. From there the frag system will be broken down and moved into place. I did find a leak on a threaded fitting, odd as its never leaked before, it's a simple fix as I can valve off the manifold for disassembly and to correct it.
op2:
OP
OP
I could probably pull the wire and do it myself but that means more holes and more work to do the repairs, same goes with getting someone to do it. Plus, that will postpone the build more. LOL
Your panel is true OCD work. Hidden panels, stained this and that... the list goes on. I just found this board laying around and decided to use it. It was that or paint it white or black and I'm too lazy for that.
OP
OP
Nothing like walking into the garage and stepping on a puddle of water. I had electrical wires running all over from testing the system and good thing this was in the testing phase. Found this cracked, orginally thought it was just a bad teflon seal on a threaded joint.
In other news, nothing like the smell of a fresh painted wall. Used Behr premium pure ultra white hi-gloss enamel interior/exterior paint. Hopefully it can with stand salt water, all I know is that it's nice and shiny now! Will be doing a few coats to ensure salt water won't get to the dry wall. Full dry time overnight and maybe over the weekend before the 3rd coat goes on since I got plenty of paint.
Electrical is looking good, drilled the board and drywall for it already. Using anchors of course, it should be able to support a lot of weight without any problems, wires and all including the Stenner pump. Can't wait to tear down and move it into place.
In other news, nothing like the smell of a fresh painted wall. Used Behr premium pure ultra white hi-gloss enamel interior/exterior paint. Hopefully it can with stand salt water, all I know is that it's nice and shiny now! Will be doing a few coats to ensure salt water won't get to the dry wall. Full dry time overnight and maybe over the weekend before the 3rd coat goes on since I got plenty of paint.
Electrical is looking good, drilled the board and drywall for it already. Using anchors of course, it should be able to support a lot of weight without any problems, wires and all including the Stenner pump. Can't wait to tear down and move it into place.
OP
OP
First few test subjects that will be going into the frag tank once it's up and running.
OP
OP
That's a Miami Vice. Can't wait for those things to grow and flourish my tank.
I'll be more happy today when I get home and splash another coat of paint on the wall. Then I can break down the frag tank and put things into place.
OP
OP
Coat two is now done, I think that will do. Yup, the paint doesn't match the rest of the wall. Will have to figure something out later. Trim maybe?
Interesting view tonight, I had a feeling this was happeneing as I saw burns on the raptor peace favia and the jawbreaker zoas.
Interesting view tonight, I had a feeling this was happeneing as I saw burns on the raptor peace favia and the jawbreaker zoas.
OP
OP
Tank finally in place! Still need to shim the stand so the tank will be level. Wires are still a mess but that will be taken care of soon. One more wet test before emptying and going through the wall and plumbing.
