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Below is some of the stuff I've done in the past with the pi...
Clark Griswald's got nothing on you
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Below is some of the stuff I've done in the past with the pi...
You have to declare outlets, with GPIO pin numbers, as mentioned here: https://reef-pi.github.io/build-guides/power/

Exactly what @Ryan115 said,You need to click on the Green + sign under outlets and enter those GPIO numbers there, as Ranjib said, you are adding Pins.
Like this...
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Are these the pins on the board (header) or cable (connector)?Just got back from my scientific expedition and here's my findings (I'm Awesome BTW)
The 2 sockets on that board are both linked so I was testing the socket and wiring from the control board to the driver board and this is what I found, I must say if you confirm my findings I'm feeling like I might make a YouTube account and show the whole world how to do this as I have found nothing on line that shows you how to do the Viparspectra lights.
I'm concluding that All I need is to connect the PWM +12 and the PWM GND to the amp board that Ranjib has posted.
Although I tested the voltages and found that the meter is only showing 10.07 V DC across the PWM pins. and looking at the suppliers website most of there "Dimming" units are 0 - 10V this could explain why these lights only ever get warm and not hot enough to need a solid heat sink. I think there made for 12v PWM and only get 10V PWM max so there less likely to burn out the LED chips.
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you'll get there budHi Ranjib
Thanks for getting back to me. sorry to keep pestering you but I'm so close to getting this system ready for a test tank.
I've been following your guide to set it all up bud.
I have used the same AC tag as you and read the pin number off the pin layout i.e
AC1 pin 25
AC2 pin 5
Its when I get to the equipment page and click the + I get the box to name the equipment say Pump and the outlet drop down and the selection box is empty.
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you Guys are Brillient! I could give you a kiss.Exactly what @Ryan115 said,

Not yet. but its something I have thought about. It wont be hard to implement though. I am currently working on the camera sub-system , I'll let you know my thoughts on this. I am bit worried about the CPU/Memory usage for such things, they tend to be very resource intensive, and I dont want stuff like that to mess up equipment/lighting/dosing control etc. But having this is doable, and one might use a dedicated reef-pi for this, if need be. Give me a couple of days to think this through,Hey, Ranjib!
Sorry if this has already been answered, but can, or could, reef-pi support live video streams where one could view their tank in real time video, remotely over the internet? I'm pretty sure people have made DIY smart doorbells from RPi's have done this kind of thing. I'm not sure what this would entail, but I think it'd be a really great feature to have.
As always, I very much appreciate your efforts developing this project!
-FF
The initial learning curve is little steep. Once setup, I dont think you have to tinker with it a lot, but this project is going rapid development, so if you want to the new features, you have to update.Hi all,
I am jumping into the saltwater world, and considering I want to keep the costs down, I can't splurge on a fancy controller. I have decided to give reef pi a shot. My primary goals are:
Temperature control using multiple heaters
Power controller to be used to manage equipment (would like the ability to set up routines such as "water change", and have an easy interface to to turn on/off equipment)
Monitoring (be able to monitor temperature, salinity and other aquarium parameters)
It appears this project would allow me to do all that and more.
How easy is it to set up? Do you have to tinker with it constantly? Thanks!
. Since I wrote it, its always less complicated for meNo rush, I was just curious. I noticed you said you were working on the camera subsytem, and I thought I'd mention it. I think it's cool enough to justify using a dedicated reef-pi for just the video server. Anyway, all in time I'm sure.Not yet. but its something I have thought about. It wont be hard to implement though. I am currently working on the camera sub-system , I'll let you know my thoughts on this. I am bit worried about the CPU/Memory usage for such things, they tend to be very resource intensive, and I dont want stuff like that to mess up equipment/lighting/dosing control etc. But having this is doable, and one might use a dedicated reef-pi for this, if need be. Give me a couple of days to think this through,
Now I know that Reef pi is a web based program, but is there any way of connecting to it with a laptop with out it having to connect to a net work?
The reason I ask is I have free time at work and a laptop that as you can see in on the net, but what I cant do is add my pi to the network or connect to it in any way. I could connect to my raspberry using Bluetooth or a USB but not over the works network.
If there was a way to do this it would mean I could do all the setting up and build work in the electrical test bay at work rather than in my front room at home.
No. Ph probe integration is some thing I plan to work on during summerCan reef pi measure salinity and ph?
You can always use usb Ttl cable to get directl console access. It will not have the browser , but reef-pi can run just fine , and changes can be made via apiI might have missed where this was answered.
https://reef-pi.github.io/additional-documentation/remote/
Hi HM3105I might have missed where this was answered.
https://reef-pi.github.io/additional-documentation/remote/
I was thinking about this last night...I would either test the action on the On/Off pin or wait until I can test mine again. I am second guessing whether or not the 12V was applied when the system was On or Off.Are these the pins on the board (header) or cable (connector)?
If your On/Off pin is similar to other BBs then I think it is running a transistor to provide power to the driver.
When the system is on 12V is applied to the On/Off pin and the driver turns on
Otherwise it looks like the other 3 pins are +12VDC input, Common GND for power and PWM, and the PWM pin which is likely 10V PWM.


