reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[speedstar]

What pumps are you using? I think the Kamoer pumps for dairy that theatrus linked earlier are pretty dang nice.

Im going at this a different way, using the standard BRS 1.1ml / min pumps that are 120v and using the timer function to outlets. I have to add a couple outlets, calibrate and then figure it will be a run 35 second on the hour for ALK and run for 35 seconds on the half hour for Ca.

I have a set local available for $25each

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-2-part-doser-1-1-ml-per-minute.html

 

[Ranjib]

All, I figured I would share my CPU usage and current status. My reef-pi is still running next to my tank in simulation mode. I configured all the lights, dosers, and timers exactly how I would configure them if it was running my tank. The lights are connected to small LED's so I can watch them come on and off and the dosers are connected to 12 volt computer fans. As of now I get no interference with the lights when the fans kick on to simulate dosing. I have the following on my pi

2 dosers, one runs 4 times a day the other runs 5 times a day
Dual ATO with float switches (The timer is set to 30 second check intervals but I dont really have a way to simulate it)
dual temp probes set to 30 second check intervals
8 110 volt relays that have 3 timers. One timer flip flops pumps on the hour and the other is my sump light.
2 relays to switch 12 volts to turn lights on and off. These relays have 2 on timers and 2 off timers.
3 PWM light channels Blue, White, and Sunrise/Sunset

I am running this off a pi 3B+

Ignore the beginning of the light cycle yesterday. I was adjusting values. The moon/sunrise light is going to be 10 20mA 450nm standard hobby LED's. I did the math and they are .6 watts with all 10 lit at 100% I will most likely be running them much lower.

This is pretty cool . Thank you so much for sharing

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

I havent used any yet. The ones I was thinking about are Loctite Marine Epoxy, or DEVCON 5 Minute, clear.
Not sure if they are reef safe, or how long I would need to soak them after, which is the main reason I havent done them yet.

I think plasti-dip would work for this

 

[rushbattle]

Im going at this a different way, using the standard BRS 1.1ml / min pumps that are 120v and using the timer function to outlets. I have to add a couple outlets, calibrate and then figure it will be a run 35 second on the hour for ALK and run for 35 seconds on the half hour for Ca.

I have a set local available for $25each

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-2-part-doser-1-1-ml-per-minute.html

Good idea! I have a half dozen or so of those guys. I really like them and will use them in association with the DJ strip and Pico board on my small setup.

 

[Johan Fe Scheepers]

I am missing something here? The config as below but the Led,s are not turning on at al, using PI PMW. If I set them up as outlets (18&19) and then I can turn them on and off, proving the wiring.

 

[theatrus]

I am missing something here? The config as below but the Led,s are not turning on at al, using PI PMW. If I set them up as outlets (18&19) and then I can turn them on and off, proving the wiring.

What setting are you using in /boot/config.txt ? The RPi needs pins mapped to the PWM/Timer peripheral to work correctly.

 

[Diamond1]

I am missing something here? The config as below but the Led,s are not turning on at al, using PI PMW. If I set them up as outlets (18&19) and then I can turn them on and off, proving the wiring.

What lights are you running?

 

[theatrus]

I think plasti-dip would work for this

Initial findings on dunking the probes:

• Make sure to remove the heat-shrink tube over the top half of the metal pill capsule and the wire. It does nothing, as the wire is already potted into the pill. Any coating you apply either needs to seal the boundary at both ends really well, or simpler just cut it away.
• Silicone (Fine-L-Kote SR) coating has (no surprise) crap adhesion to the metal capsule, even after 24hr cure.
• Turbo-Coat Acrylic has a really good adhesion, but will crack over the flexing cable. This likely won't matter as we don't care about that, only to protect the metal pill.
• Still need to test a urethane coating.

A good casting epoxy is still a really good idea but much more labor intensive, so I'm digging into the other options

 

[Johan Fe Scheepers]

What lights are you running?

Just LED to test

 

[Ryan115]

Initial findings on dunking the probes:

• Make sure to remove the heat-shrink tube over the top half of the metal pill capsule and the wire. It does nothing, as the wire is already potted into the pill. Any coating you apply either needs to seal the boundary at both ends really well, or simpler just cut it away.
• Silicone (Fine-L-Kote SR) coating has (no surprise) crap adhesion to the metal capsule, even after 24hr cure.
• Turbo-Coat Acrylic has a really good adhesion, but will crack over the flexing cable. This likely won't matter as we don't care about that, only to protect the metal pill.
• Still need to test a urethane coating.

A good casting epoxy is still a really good idea but much more labor intensive, so I'm digging into the other options

I have also wondered about encapsulating in hot glue.
Coat the stainless in hot glue and then heat shrink on top of it. As the heat shrink melts, it re-melts some of the hot glue and purges it out the ends. You would just have to be careful not to get the entire system too hot and damaging the DS18B20 internally.

I have seen this method used on cable splices that have gone down 100's of meters into the ocean.

 

[Diamond1]

I am missing something here? The config as below but the Led,s are not turning on at al, using PI PMW. If I set them up as outlets (18&19) and then I can turn them on and off, proving the wiring.

Do you have this line in your /boot/config.txt

dtoverlay=pwm-2chan?

The other thing I see different from mine is you have Min and Start values set at 100. Try setting them both to 0.

The only other thing I see different is you have Min and Start values set at 100. Try setting them both to 0.

 

[b4tn]

I am looking for doser safety ideas. My biggest fear is the reef-pi doser getting stuck on for whatever reason and pouring in a liter bottle of alk. With my RKL I have the PH probe sitting in the dosing chamber and it will shut off the doser if the PH goes above 8.6. Since 1. I dont have PH monitoring installed on my reef-pi and 2. it cant control based on PH (Yet) I am trying to come up with other ideas.

My first thought is to use a third float switch (can we use more than one float switch not run in parallel to the main ATO?) set to detect high level and when the dosing chamber goes to high use a relay to cut the dosing circuits ground wire removing power from the motor driver. Any other ideas?

Another thought for future releases. Maybe a user defined override option to set the max run time of doser and return pump.

 

[Johan Fe Scheepers]

Do you have this line in your /boot/config.txt

dtoverlay=pwm-2chan?

The other thing I see different from mine is you have Min and Start values set at 100. Try setting them both to 0.

The only other thing I see different is you have Min and Start values set at 100. Try setting them both to 0.

I have tried the min and start at 0, 25, 50, 75, 100, but no luck.

And yes dtoverlay=pwm-2chan is in my boot.txt

 

[Hookster15]

It will be awesome if anyone with 3d printing experience can help us design an open source 3d enclosure for this board. I think it will be very popular

i can help with the 3d enclosure. i do need to get my hands on a board, but i do have questions?

 

[b4tn]

i can help with the 3d enclosure. i do need to get my hands on a board, but i do have questions?

The problem is that there are so many variations in the design based on what you want to do its hard to make a one fits all design for an enclosure. @sector9 made a pretty nice one and I think it may be uploaded to thingverse.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...-on-raspberry-pi.289256/page-341#post-5277633

 

[Diamond1]

I have tried the min and start at 0, 25, 50, 75, 100, but no luck.

And yes dtoverlay=pwm-2chan is in my boot.txt

Have you tried changing the pwm frequency? 100, 200, 500 etc..?

 

[Johan Fe Scheepers]

Th

Have you tried changing the pwm frequency? 100, 200, 500 etc..?

Thanks for your help added start_x=0 to the /boot/config.txt

 

[Bigtrout]

On XMAS day Santa brings me the stuff to start my build, but the thing that was a sticking point was my led lights which use common cathode to tie the channels together, which meant using p channel mosfets as high side switches and building custom circuitry to interface them...until now...

SCORE...a prebuild breakout board that uses the pca9685 signal(any 3.3 to 10v pwm) to run a p channel mosfet, optically isolated from the PCA and usable to 1khz.

https://www.dfrobot.com/product-156...XU8Rg8-TsePc0pT8DzzM6AxN8NvCdUOhoCGv8QAvD_BwE

 

[Bigtrout]

Mrs. Santa was defensive about getting the mail today and wouldnt show me. Im thinking the ML reefkeepers reef pi hat arrived...thanks Mike L!!!

I will start my build thread once I see what all I get and get started, I gave Mrs Santa a list with options if she couldnt find something.

I should cross post my build on Planted tank.net forums as well, I am thinking we could get even more people interested in reef pi. I know I'm a freshwater guy but reef tanks and good planted tanks all could use a great controller and when the pH sensor works, it would be a great way to monitor and control CO2 for planted tanks.

 

[Jonathan Troutt]

@Ranjib

So now that the main 3 modules are done, I started setting up reef-pi to my likings.

With the lighting profile. I thought there was one hour increments instead of 2 hours? Has it always been 2 hour increments? Is there way to change that? Not complaining just wondering.