reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ranjib]

Hi to all just a simple Question,could we use DHT22 temp sensor,(beside DS1820)just to see room temp and humidity.?Thank you

Unfortunately, reef-pi only supports ds18b20 sensors right now for temperature monitoring.

 

[janos]

Thank you Ranjib as always first to answer.

 

[brandon clow]

Yes. One of them. Actually I had three buster based build running (all in testing phase, against the garage tank). Two are pi 3. The pi zero one i just took offline for some rework.I think I'll have the telemetry data (prometheus/grafana), if theres any obvious performance/system issue it should be visible on those metrics. I can see stretch and buster based build performance.. from app layer to low level syscalls.

Yes. One of them. Actually I had three buster based build running (all in testing phase, against the garage tank). Two are pi 3. The pi zero one i just took offline for some rework.I think I'll have the telemetry data (prometheus/grafana), if theres any obvious performance/system issue it should be visible on those metrics. I can see stretch and buster based build performance.. from app layer to low level syscalls.

I can say that I am having success with buster on a 4B 2gb at about 3 weeks in. If I can get my 3B rev 1.2 back up and running I will report the results also.

 

[sfgabe]

I'm also having a problem on Buster (mine is with 3.0) on a Pi Zero build. It's a clean install and I've tried 2 cards. Both have worked ok, am able to setup config etc, but then it get into a cycle where it works for 5 minutes to an hour or two (random) and then reboots. No errors that I can see in the logs. I'm trying to troubleshoot but reading through some of the forums, it seems like Buster is not particularly stable, especially on older / smaller pi's. I'm going to downgrade this weekend and see if that fixes it.

Just a follow up - as a last resort before downgrading I swapped out a new-out-of-the-package zero and it has been working flawlessly. I'm coming up on about two years of having various tiny smart systems in my house working on Pi Zero W's and it seems like after a while something shorts out somewhere. Maybe I just got a bad bunch, but I'm glad my reef system is on a pi 3, as the full size ones seem to be more consistent.

 

[Ranjib]

Some of my pi zeros are running for almost two years. I have lot less pi 3 based builds, compared to zeros. I guess I was lucky. I got another new pi zero today.. I'll see how that goes

 

[MikeSpike]

Excuse my ignorance here. Trying to get the aTO module to work but it just leaves the outlet on (even if I set it to off manually it just goes back to on) I have just connected it straight to the GPio pins. ? I have not used any resistors please let me know if this is required or you think it’s something ekse

 

[Ranjib]

Excuse my ignorance here. Trying to get the aTO module to work but it just leaves the outlet on (even if I set it to off manually it just goes back to on) I have just connected it straight to the GPio pins. ? I have not used any resistors please let me know if this is required or you think it’s something ekse

tell us little bit about your setup, what sensor, inlet configuration, check period etc. Is it working in reverse mode?

 

[MikeSpike]

I have connected the red wire (ground) to gpio 39. Blue wire (vcc) to gpio 2 and White wire signal to gpio 23. Check period is 10 secs and have tried both reverse and normal mode. Yellow wire I have left unconnected

 

[sjeff35]

Ok, having a brain fart here. I had this working in the past, but I'm stuck now.

Pi 3 running 2.5 only for my Kessil A360. I have it running and it's modifying the voltages for channel 1 and 2, but I remember in an older version you had to set the Min and Start or the lights would flicker. I've played around with different values, but when it gets below 14 it starts flashing. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

 

[Ranjib]

I have connected the red wire (ground) to gpio 39. Blue wire (vcc) to gpio 2 and White wire signal to gpio 23. Check period is 10 secs and have tried both reverse and normal mode. Yellow wire I have left unconnected

you are using photo sensor or float switch? do you have build thread I can look at?

 

[Bigtrout]

Ok, having a brain fart here. I had this working in the past, but I'm stuck now.

Pi 3 running 2.5 only for my Kessil A360. I have it running and it's modifying the voltages for channel 1 and 2, but I remember in an older version you had to set the Min and Start or the lights would flicker. I've played around with different values, but when it gets below 14 it starts flashing. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Are u using the raspberry pi gpio for your pwm?
If so, you may need to change the frequency, its somewhere on the config pages.

 

[sjeff35]

Are u using the raspberry pi gpio for your pwm?
If so, you may need to change the frequency, its somewhere on the config pages.

Yes, (I think) I'm using the RPI. Let me check the config doc.

Thanks

 

[Bigtrout]

Yes, (I think) I'm using the RPI. Let me check the config doc.

Thanks

Its under config>>settings

Play with the rpi frequency...reload reef pi after each change

 

[sjeff35]

Its under config>>settings

Play with the rpi frequency...reload reef pi after each change

Got it working last night, had to bump the freq up to 200 and play with the min/start settings.

Thanks @Bigtrout

 

[Schreiber]

Working on cleaning my board up & adding float sensors, rather than an optical one. Anyone feel like giving this diagram a look to see if everything looks good? Mainly concerned with the wiring to the float switches. Also considering trying out a 7805 regulator, rather than a buck converter to see how it works out.

 

[Ranjib]

Working on cleaning my board up & adding float sensors, rather than an optical one. Anyone feel like giving this diagram a look to see if everything looks good? Mainly concerned with the wiring to the float switches. Also considering trying out a 7805 regulator, rather than a buck converter to see how it works out.

Looks good to me. You are using a linear regulator for 12v to 5v conversion?
The float switch circuit will be fine even if you just use one resistor instead of two.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I have connected the red wire (ground) to gpio 39. Blue wire (vcc) to gpio 2 and White wire signal to gpio 23. Check period is 10 secs and have tried both reverse and normal mode. Yellow wire I have left unconnected

If you're using an optical sensor without an appropriate circuit(resistors), ie. plugging it in directly, it will not function as intended and will constantly trip. That's the issue I had with my optical sensors when I got them; I didn't have appropriate resistors to go with it.

Once the resistors are added, it functions as it should. Also, if it's an ebay sensor there's also a possibility it isn't wired/color coordinated to any particular standard. See if there's any documentation that comes with it.

 

[Schreiber]

Looks good to me. You are using a linear regulator for 12v to 5v conversion?
The float switch circuit will be fine even if you just use one resistor instead of two.

That's my plan. The buck converters simply take up too much room in my opinion, especially when I'm not planning on using the 10V one for light dimming.

I had originally planed on only using 1 resistor, but split into 2 to be safe. Sounds like I should be fine reverting to 1 for simplicity's sake, thanks!

 

[Schreiber]

Looks good to me. You are using a linear regulator for 12v to 5v conversion?
The float switch circuit will be fine even if you just use one resistor instead of two.

Actually, I'm looking at it with just 1 resistor & I don't see how it would work. If there's only a single resistor, wouldn't it pull both float switch inputs to ground even if only one of them triggered?

 

[Ranjib]

That's my plan. The buck converters simply take up too much room in my opinion, especially when I'm not planning on using the 10V one for light dimming.

I had originally planed on only using 1 resistor, but split into 2 to be safe. Sounds like I should be fine reverting to 1 for simplicity's sake, thanks!

the lm2596 are rated for 3 Amp. Which is why i prefer them, they are efficient and doesnot need heatsinks. Just verify that your overall current draw is within bounds and you have heating sorted out