reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

BenB · Feb 7, 2020

Can someone tell me what the resistance is? 1K or 10K??

It is in the light guide but not discribed: https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-lighting-controller/circuit-construction

Des Westcott · Feb 7, 2020

Ranjib said:
From the log it looks like Sd card got corrupted

Bought a new card and started it from scratch. All up and running again.

I must say, Raspbian does seem a lot more responsive on my touch screen. Who know how long this card was on it's way out.

I bought two identical cards. Once I'm happy with the setup, I will cut an .img and flash the other card and keep it as a spare. Should have done that ages ago.

Des Westcott · Feb 7, 2020

redwayjay said:
Thanks, Des. Out of curiosity besides the tinkering factor do you think this will still be viable option to Apex once the Coralife Hydros 4 is released?

I'm afraid I am not familiar at all with the Apex unit at all. In South Africa, they are prohibitively expensive. I doubt there are more than a handful in the whole country.

Apart from the tinkering factor, that is my main reason for going the reef-pi route.

lilgrounchuck · Feb 7, 2020

Des Westcott said:
Bought a new card and started it from scratch. All up and running again.

I must say, Raspbian does seem a lot more responsive on my touch screen. Who know how long this card was on it's way out.

I bought two identical cards. Once I'm happy with the setup, I will cut an .img and flash the other card and keep it as a spare. Should have done that ages ago.

Probably not too long. It’s not like mechanical drives that die a slow death. SDcards, m2, SSDs usually just go belly up all of a sudden. The new card may just have have better r/rw than the last one.

Schreiber · Feb 7, 2020

BenB said:
Can someone tell me what the resistance is? 1K or 10K??

It is in the light guide but not discribed: https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-lighting-controller/circuit-construction

Based on the color code, it's a 1K. I haven't built a moonlight controller myself to confirm that's correct though.

Matevz Savarin · Feb 7, 2020

I have found out one very odd thing.. If I connect led pwm signal wire to raspberry then my ph rises to 12

I control leds with ir520 mosfet. This was just a test, so I can build new light fixture. So seams like something is making noise hire.

AbjectMaelstroM · Feb 7, 2020

Is there a way to go manually via terminal and delete an ATO from reefpi? Trying to avoid resetting config.

I can't seem to be able to delete ATOs from the UI. I've tried untying them from any equipment and sensors and still won't delete.

Urtoo · Feb 7, 2020

Can you remove rows until ATO is cleared and then ReAdd the panels you want?

Bzar · Feb 7, 2020

Ranjib said:
agree they are pretty good and affordable alternative. but i doubt they can be as precise as stepper motors, which is what we need for very precise volume dosing to experiment with things involving titration, other than general dosing.
In fact after running ATO via DC motor based peristaltic pumps and using tropical marine all in one, i think i will not need stepper based dosing pumps purely for dosing regimen. The ATO based dosing is pretty effective when I know whats my ATO consumption at weekly cadence

Any progress on stepper interface? With this type of control we could do so much

Easy reliable precise motors for things like skimmer cup cleaners, dosing, auto feeders, maybe even a reefpi based reefbot for water testing

redwayjay · Feb 7, 2020

Des Westcott said:
I'm afraid I am not familiar at all with the Apex unit at all. In South Africa, they are prohibitively expensive. I doubt there are more than a handful in the whole country.

Apart from the tinkering factor, that is my main reason for going the reef-pi route.

Hopefully the Hydros from Corallife will make its way to S.A., looks promising.

AbjectMaelstroM · Feb 7, 2020

redwayjay said:
Hopefully the Hydros from Corallife will make its way to S.A., looks promising.

Took a look at it and it seems pretty neat and definitely more affordable than the Apex, but slightly less features (unless you get Control 4 which is $400). That being said, if you've got a bit of DIY in you, I would argue ReefPi blows the pants off of anything on the market as far as features vs price. Granted if you want set it and forget it, Hydros is definitely a great alternative.

Curious to see the price of the add-ons/sensors.

redwayjay · Feb 7, 2020

AbjectMaelstroM said:
Took a look at it and it seems pretty neat and definitely more affordable than the Apex, but slightly less features (unless you get Control 4 which is $400). That being said, if you've got a bit of DIY in you, I would argue ReefPi blows the pants off of anything on the market as far as features vs price. Granted if you want set it and forget it, Hydros is definitely a great alternative.

Curious to see the price of the add-ons/sensors.

For 399 you get hydros 4 one power switch box pH probe and a temp sensor.
The 4 power switch I thought was suppose to be like 35.00.
The wave control is 299.00
ATO I heard was around 100.00

marekd1 · Feb 7, 2020

BenB said:
The PCA9685 operates with a supply voltage range of 2.3 V to 5.5 V and the inputs and outputs are 5.5 V tolerant.

And you can connect more than one like this:

And give it a proper address. https://learn.adafruit.com/16-channel-pwm-servo-driver/chaining-drivers

If the second pca9685 is in another box that is further away than 1 meter best is to use a shielded cable.

Just a note to be aware of: each pca9685 has pull-up resistors for the SCA and SDA lines. If you are planning to add more than one board you should remove them on the others as they will be all in parallel drastically reducing the overall resistance. As a result I2C communication will be failing or be inconsistent.

Ranjib · Feb 7, 2020

marekd1 said:
Just a note to be aware of: each pca9685 has pull-up resistors for the SCA and SDA lines. If you are planning to add more than one board you should remove them on the others as they will be all in parallel drastically reducing the overall resistance. As a result I2C communication will be failing or be inconsistent.

Thank you so much for bringing that up. This is very useful and I was not aware of it.

marekd1 · Feb 7, 2020

Ranjib said:
Thank you so much for bringing that up. This is very useful and I wan not aware of it.

Every i2C board you buy will have pullups, so if you adding more than one its a good thing to check. Just measure the resistance between SDA and VCC then SCL and VCC before connecting to the bus. It should be the same after you plug it into the bus.

here is a typical case...

Bzar · Feb 7, 2020

Quick question as I haven't found the answer easy enough. What's the best/easiest process to update to the newest version and keeping your current settings?