reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Brad Cox]

So, 10v pwm is working as expected ? But the low pass filter isn't , that is the analog conversion is not working ? Are you testing these with multimeter? or oscilloscope,? Trying to understand how can we reproduce this

Correct.
I dont have a scope so i cant see whats going on.

When i dont connect the light the it seems to work. I can move the slider and i get 0-10volts. But when i connect my lights i only get 5-10volts when i move the slider. Make sense?

Im not sure this will even work. My light is makeing its own 10 volts.

 

[Brad Cox]

How much trouble is it to use the mcp4725 boards?

 

[Ryan115]

By the way, that aqua lifter pump looks like a air pump. I have never used them, so I can be wrong.
I use the smart ato micro pump, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VSZH2P/
alongside a 12v power supply, https://www.amazon.com//dp/B01GD4ZQRS/

I have used an aqua lifter for years, they are great. But you are correct it is more or less a sealed diaphram air pump. It moves water or air no problem, which is a feature that I really like, so if the ATO chamber runs dry you don't burn out your pump (on that note Ranjib, I had some thoughts for ATO remaining volume sensor).

Correct.
I dont have a scope so i cant see whats going on.

When i dont connect the light the it seems to work. I can move the slider and i get 0-10volts. But when i connect my lights i only get 5-10volts when i move the slider. Make sense?

Im not sure this will even work. My light is makeing its own 10 volts.

The 10V that the light is putting out, is that coming from the driver or from the dimmer circuit with the rheostat attached to it?
It was my understanding that on these black boxes the dimmer circuit usually made the 10V and then fed DIM+ and DIM- to the driver. If your driver is making it's own 10V then your dimmer circuit may be running as just a variable resistor or a PWM circuit.
Can you take a picture of the internal driver and the internal dimmer circuit?

 

[Brad Cox]

I have used an aqua lifter for years, they are great. But you are correct it is more or less a sealed diaphram air pump. It moves water or air no problem, which is a feature that I really like, so if the ATO chamber runs dry you don't burn out your pump (on that note Ranjib, I had some thoughts for ATO remaining volume sensor).



The 10V that the light is putting out, is that coming from the driver or from the dimmer circuit with the rheostat attached to it?
It was my understanding that on these black boxes the dimmer circuit usually made the 10V and then fed DIM+ and DIM- to the driver. If your driver is making it's own 10V then your dimmer circuit may be running as just a variable resistor or a PWM circuit.
Can you take a picture of the internal driver and the internal dimmer circuit?

The 10v is coming out of the driver itself. Ill have to tear down one to get a look at the driver i didnt do that.
This might not even be possiable to do. But others have used the apex to control it so im not sure.

Ill get one apart and snap a pic of it

 

[Ranjib]

I have used an aqua lifter for years, they are great. But you are correct it is more or less a sealed diaphram air pump. It moves water or air no problem, which is a feature that I really like, so if the ATO chamber runs dry you don't burn out your pump (on that note Ranjib, I had some thoughts for ATO remaining volume sensor).



The 10V that the light is putting out, is that coming from the driver or from the dimmer circuit with the rheostat attached to it?
It was my understanding that on these black boxes the dimmer circuit usually made the 10V and then fed DIM+ and DIM- to the driver. If your driver is making it's own 10V then your dimmer circuit may be running as just a variable resistor or a PWM circuit.
Can you take a picture of the internal driver and the internal dimmer circuit?

I am all ears for any suggestion around the ato system , letme know what features you would like to see in the ato module.I have pondered about double sensor for redundancy

 

[Ranjib]

How much trouble is it to use the mcp4725 boards?

Not a lot. I'll absolutely add it if that's what we need

 

[Brad Cox]

Not a lot. I'll absolutely add it if that's what we need

I think it would help alot.

It would make it easier to do for the not so diyers. Pluse you dont have to convert this to that.

That would complete me as well!

 

[Ryan115]

I am all ears for any suggestion around the ato system , letme know what features you would like to see in the ato module.I have pondered about double sensor for redundancy

The main things that I have been considering are:
1) 2nd sensor is sump for redundency
2) sensor in overflow. To turn off main return if level gets too high in main tank.
3) sensor/monitor for ATO reservoir. I was wondering about an ultrasonic sensor (like this one https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13959) for calculating remaining volume. Could also turn off top-off pump if level is low. Mostly because I already have one...

 

[Brad Cox]

The main things that I have been considering are:
1) 2nd sensor is sump for redundency
2) sensor in overflow. To turn off main return if level gets too high in main tank.
3) sensor/monitor for ATO reservoir. I was wondering about an ultrasonic sensor (like this one https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13959) for calculating remaining volume. Could also turn off top-off pump if level is low. Mostly because I already have one...

Yea id be good with another level switch so it will cut off if over filled

 

[Brad Cox]

I have used an aqua lifter for years, they are great. But you are correct it is more or less a sealed diaphram air pump. It moves water or air no problem, which is a feature that I really like, so if the ATO chamber runs dry you don't burn out your pump (on that note Ranjib, I had some thoughts for ATO remaining volume sensor).



The 10V that the light is putting out, is that coming from the driver or from the dimmer circuit with the rheostat attached to it?
It was my understanding that on these black boxes the dimmer circuit usually made the 10V and then fed DIM+ and DIM- to the driver. If your driver is making it's own 10V then your dimmer circuit may be running as just a variable resistor or a PWM circuit.
Can you take a picture of the internal driver and the internal dimmer circuit?

Heres the photos of the driver board. Front and back.

The dimmer circuit is marked p- and p+

 

[Brad Cox]

Here is the pot box.

 

[Brad Cox]

Is that a low pass circuit built in there?

 

[Ranjib]

The main things that I have been considering are:
1) 2nd sensor is sump for redundency
2) sensor in overflow. To turn off main return if level gets too high in main tank.
3) sensor/monitor for ATO reservoir. I was wondering about an ultrasonic sensor (like this one https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13959) for calculating remaining volume. Could also turn off top-off pump if level is low. Mostly because I already have one...

So, three sensors over all. One in sump, one in overflow, one in ATO reservoir? And the ato reservoir is level based. Theres e-tape liquid sensor also, which gives quantitative value of the water level. It was this sensor that I was using in the very beginning of reef-pi . Later on I decided to get the basic modules in place instead of focusing on certain specific modules (ATO in this case) and make it uber cool .

I am up for adding another sensor for redundancy (float switch or photo electric sensor). But the water level sensor (IR or etape based), I would hold off for 1.0 release. And definitely game for hacking with it after 1.0. This is to ensure that we get all the basic modules thoroughly tested for 1.0.
Does that make sense?

 

[Ranjib]

This has been asked a few times, hence sharing my reference pin out for all in one controller, any feedback welcome:

I'll publish it as part of the build doc in website, after I consolidate all your comments. This pin out covers an 8 channel relay, pca9685 board for pwm/lighting/doser, ds18b20 based temperature sensor, dfrobots photoelectric water level sensor based ATO.

 

[Ryan115]

So, three sensors over all. One in sump, one in overflow, one in ATO reservoir? And the ato reservoir is level based. Theres e-tape liquid sensor also, which gives quantitative value of the water level. It was this sensor that I was using in the very beginning of reef-pi . Later on I decided to get the basic modules in place instead of focusing on certain specific modules (ATO in this case) and make it uber cool .

I am up for adding another sensor for redundancy (float switch or photo electric sensor). But the water level sensor (IR or etape based), I would hold off for 1.0 release. And definitely game for hacking with it after 1.0. This is to ensure that we get all the basic modules thoroughly tested for 1.0.
Does that make sense?

It may be extreme, but it seems like a pretty cool feature to have. Not only controlling the system, but bringing extra redundency in.
I would agree that it should wait until after 1.0.
There are a few other cool features that I have thought of that would be cool to have. Having the telemetry and email alert options has really started the wheels turning.

 

[Ryan115]

Here is the pot box.

So where are you currently feeding in the feed from reef-pi? Is the internal dimmer circuit still wired in?
The dimmer circuit should be pulled out. Connect the V+ and ON/OFF wires together. Feed VDM+ and VDM- to reef-pi.
You should be able to pretty much follow this video

 

[Brad Cox]

Well i have that setup. But the 0-10v needs to be analog vs 0-10v digital.

Ive setup the dca and ran the test and it dims out fine.

But it only does 0-5volts not 0-10.

Is there anyway to change that?

 

[Brad Cox]

Well i have went back to the orginal 0-10volt conversion and i think it works. Kinda.

It will move down to 1.2 volts up to 9.85.

But its not smooth. I have to keep clicking the slider on that channel to update? Then when i get to 0 on the slider i have to move it up and down and it will go to 0.

 

[Brad Cox]

also I'm using the 3.3 to my ato vcc. is that not right? its working great btw!

 

[Ranjib]

Well i have went back to the orginal 0-10volt conversion and i think it works. Kinda.

It will move down to 1.2 volts up to 9.85.

But its not smooth. I have to keep clicking the slider on that channel to update? Then when i get to 0 on the slider i have to move it up and down and it will go to 0.

Using DAC ? An op amp with gain 2 will convert o-5v to 0-10v : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/TLV272IP/296-12671-5-ND/454247