reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Hi @Ranjib,

maybe you like my idea for the equipment buttons. While I searched for buttons on the web, it just popped into my head. You could simplify the UI by combining the button and the button-name into one button.
This way you have less "stuff" in respect to plain text on the page and whether the outlet is "on" or "off", the Button is going to be red or green.
 
I have published an updated/detailed Bill of Materials: https://reef-pi.com/general-guides/bom/
This will be used in conjunction with the electronics /wiring guide. Let me know what you all think. As always, any suggestions/improvements welcome.
 
Hi @Ranjib,

maybe you like my idea for the equipment buttons. While I searched for buttons on the web, it just popped into my head. You could simplify the UI by combining the button and the button-name into one button.
This way you have less "stuff" in respect to plain text on the page and whether the outlet is "on" or "off", the Button is going to be red or green.
:-) I have done that already, I didn't like the two button interface that I shipped with 0.9.1, though it made things more intuitive, its somewhat space consuming and redundant. So, four days ago I made another update in the equipment UI. In the new UI, equipment wont have on/off buttons, there will be only one button with equipment name as the label, and if that button is green ,. its on, if not its off. There is no more red color buttons, there is no more on/off text toggling. I hope you all like it, i for one, love this one

here is a screen shot:
Screen Shot 2017-12-03 at 9.32.49 AM.png


What do you think?
 
:) I have done that already, I didn't like the two button interface that I shipped with 0.9.1, though it made things more intuitive, its somewhat space consuming and redundant. So, four days ago I made another update in the equipment UI. In the new UI, equipment wont have on/off buttons, there will be only one button with equipment name as the label, and if that button is green ,. its on, if not its off. There is no more red color buttons, there is no more on/off text toggling. I hope you all like it, i for one, love this one

here is a screen shot:
Screen Shot 2017-12-03 at 9.32.49 AM.png


What do you think?

I totally agree with you and this is exactly the way I had in mind. I love this one! Will you publish a 0.9.2 update? I HAVE to get my fingers on this!
 
:) I have done that already, I didn't like the two button interface that I shipped with 0.9.1, though it made things more intuitive, its somewhat space consuming and redundant. So, four days ago I made another update in the equipment UI. In the new UI, equipment wont have on/off buttons, there will be only one button with equipment name as the label, and if that button is green ,. its on, if not its off. There is no more red color buttons, there is no more on/off text toggling. I hope you all like it, i for one, love this one

here is a screen shot:
Screen Shot 2017-12-03 at 9.32.49 AM.png


What do you think?
I liked the other better, but this is good also.
 
:) I have done that already, I didn't like the two button interface that I shipped with 0.9.1, though it made things more intuitive, its somewhat space consuming and redundant. So, four days ago I made another update in the equipment UI. In the new UI, equipment wont have on/off buttons, there will be only one button with equipment name as the label, and if that button is green ,. its on, if not its off. There is no more red color buttons, there is no more on/off text toggling. I hope you all like it, i for one, love this one

here is a screen shot:
Screen Shot 2017-12-03 at 9.32.49 AM.png


What do you think?

This is better in my opinion, I would also be alright if the buttons changed to red when they are off. Either way IMHO is more intuitive than the previous versions.
 
Been busy with the documentation work recently. I am hell lotta slower with documentation compared to coding :-/ . Probably because I find it super boring. To keep myself motivated, I was toying around with different power supply options ( a result of all my recent readings around different Power Supply Units, aka PSUs).
Till now, all my builds had dedicated wall wart adapters for each of different power requirements. For example, the very fist build had an AC socket, which then powered a 5v 2.4A wall wart and another 12v 2a wall wart. Those, in turn, would power pi or peristaltic pumps, all hidden inside the hiding. This increased the size of the controller housing, but was frugal. The second and third build has connectors for each of those power supply, so the controller housing is smaller, but the wall wart are outside and I have three wires only to power different part.
Other than having wall wart ugliness, there was another problem with using 12v power supply for kessil, which expect 10v . I had to configure reef-pi to limit pwm output to not exceed 10v (though originally the code was used to avoid flickering at low pwm values). ,.. overall I learned pretty quickly that PSU is not solved, and my readings reflected the same from other makers..

Anyhow.. long story short I am trying out couple of new ways of powering reef-pi electronics, and till now, I absolutely love the new way..
The first one is a voltage regulator, lm2596. This bad boy is step down regulator that can regulate 3-40v. It can be configured to generate any voltage from 3 to 40v as long as the input is 1.5 volt higher. These are inexpensive and can be sourced in bunches with preconfigured capacitors/potentiometers , like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ0SC2C/ , 6 of them for 12$. I am using couple of these to power a kessil controller. The controller has only one 12v barrel jack input, and inside the housing, one of the lm2596 generates 5v for the pi & pca9685 board, and the other generates 10v for feeding the npn transistors. This drastically simplify the design, avoids wall wart, adds the benefit of a regulated power supply. Too much awesome. I am so excited about this, that I am thinking of adding them in recommended Bill of materials. These can easily be configured to generate DC power for almost all reef related equipment, like dc power heads or LED bulbs directly . This chip can regulate upto 120Watt (40 volt x 3 amp)

The second one is a AC to DC converted module with dual output , 5v and 12v.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LENMPUO/

This one eliminates the need of a any dedicated dc power source and useful where the controller already has AC power, like power bars /relays. I can see one of this coupled with couple of lm2596 module can fully replace my all in one controllers for the pico. .. excited time
The only disadvantage of these modules is they require the user/builder to do some sort of soldering :-/ . But I think thatsa ok assumption, for at least some of the DIYers,, right ?
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Been busy with the documentation work recently. I am hell lotta slower with documentation compared to coding :-/ . Probably because I find it super boring. To keep myself motivated, I was toying around with different power supply options ( a result of all my recent readings around different Power Supply Units, aka PSUs).
Till now, all my builds had dedicated wall wart adapters for each of different power requirements. For example, the very fist build had an AC socket, which then powered a 5v 2.4A wall wart and another 12v 2a wall wart. Those, in turn, would power pi or peristaltic pumps, all hidden inside the hiding. This increased the size of the controller housing, but was frugal. The second and third build has connectors for each of those power supply, so the controller housing is smaller, but the wall wart are outside and I have three wires only to power different part.
Other than having wall wart ugliness, there was another problem with using 12v power supply for kessil, which expect 10v . I had to configure reef-pi to limit pwm output to not exceed 10v (though originally the code was used to avoid flickering at low pwm values). ,.. overall I learned pretty quickly that PSU is not solved, and my readings reflected the same from other makers..

Anyhow.. long story short I am trying out couple of new ways of powering reef-pi electronics, and till now, I absolutely love the new way..
The first one is a voltage regulator, lm2596. This bad boy is step down regulator that can regulate 3-40v. It can be configured to generate any voltage from 3 to 40v as long as the input is 1.5 volt higher. These are inexpensive and can be sourced in bunches with preconfigured capacitors/potentiometers , like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ0SC2C/ , 6 of them for 12$. I am using couple of these to power a kessil controller. The controller has only one 12v barrel jack input, and inside the housing, one of the lm2596 generates 5v for the pi & pca9685 board, and the other generates 10v for feeding the npn transistors. This drastically simplify the design, avoids wall wart, adds the benefit of a regulated power supply. Too much awesome. I am so excited about this, that I am thinking of adding them in recommended Bill of materials. These can easily be configured to generate DC power for almost all reef related equipment, like dc power heads or LED bulbs directly . This chip can regulate upto 120Watt (40 volt x 3 amp)

The second one is a AC to DC converted module with dual output , 5v and 12v.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LENMPUO/

This one eliminates the need of a any dedicated dc power source and useful where the controller already has AC power, like power bars /relays. I can see one of this coupled with couple of lm2596 module can fully replace my all in one controllers for the pico. .. excited time
The only disadvantage of these modules is they require the user/builder to do some sort of soldering :-/ . But I think thatsa ok assumption, for at least some of the DIYers,, right ?
Sounds awesome!!!
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
This is awesome :0) .
Did you encounter any bug or other stability in the past 4 months ? Let me know if you have any suggestions. Love to hear your feedback
It worked well. My temp stopped reporting to adafruit about 3.5 months in so I restarted reefpi and it picked right back up
 
Been busy with the documentation work recently. I am hell lotta slower with documentation compared to coding :-/ . Probably because I find it super boring. To keep myself motivated, I was toying around with different power supply options ( a result of all my recent readings around different Power Supply Units, aka PSUs).
Till now, all my builds had dedicated wall wart adapters for each of different power requirements. For example, the very fist build had an AC socket, which then powered a 5v 2.4A wall wart and another 12v 2a wall wart. Those, in turn, would power pi or peristaltic pumps, all hidden inside the hiding. This increased the size of the controller housing, but was frugal. The second and third build has connectors for each of those power supply, so the controller housing is smaller, but the wall wart are outside and I have three wires only to power different part.
Other than having wall wart ugliness, there was another problem with using 12v power supply for kessil, which expect 10v . I had to configure reef-pi to limit pwm output to not exceed 10v (though originally the code was used to avoid flickering at low pwm values). ,.. overall I learned pretty quickly that PSU is not solved, and my readings reflected the same from other makers..

Anyhow.. long story short I am trying out couple of new ways of powering reef-pi electronics, and till now, I absolutely love the new way..
The first one is a voltage regulator, lm2596. This bad boy is step down regulator that can regulate 3-40v. It can be configured to generate any voltage from 3 to 40v as long as the input is 1.5 volt higher. These are inexpensive and can be sourced in bunches with preconfigured capacitors/potentiometers , like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ0SC2C/ , 6 of them for 12$. I am using couple of these to power a kessil controller. The controller has only one 12v barrel jack input, and inside the housing, one of the lm2596 generates 5v for the pi & pca9685 board, and the other generates 10v for feeding the npn transistors. This drastically simplify the design, avoids wall wart, adds the benefit of a regulated power supply. Too much awesome. I am so excited about this, that I am thinking of adding them in recommended Bill of materials. These can easily be configured to generate DC power for almost all reef related equipment, like dc power heads or LED bulbs directly . This chip can regulate upto 120Watt (40 volt x 3 amp)

The second one is a AC to DC converted module with dual output , 5v and 12v.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LENMPUO/

This one eliminates the need of a any dedicated dc power source and useful where the controller already has AC power, like power bars /relays. I can see one of this coupled with couple of lm2596 module can fully replace my all in one controllers for the pico. .. excited time
The only disadvantage of these modules is they require the user/builder to do some sort of soldering :-/ . But I think thatsa ok assumption, for at least some of the DIYers,, right ?
Ranjib, between those and some other UBECs, I think you are in the workings of a nice universally modular system.
If you are going to want to run pumps off of some of these, you are either going to need to move up to a 24V+ main supply with decent power output, and then step each down, or look at some boost modules as well.
I need to look at the spec sheets further for this, but I doubt they can push 40W without mounting to a heatsink with some active cooling.
Just keep in mind, higher voltage difference and higher power = more heat.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Ranjib, between those and some other UBECs, I think you are in the workings of a nice universally modular system.
If you are going to want to run pumps off of some of these, you are either going to need to move up to a 24V+ main supply with decent power output, and then step each down, or look at some boost modules as well.
I need to look at the spec sheets further for this, but I doubt they can push 40W without mounting to a heatsink with some active cooling.
Just keep in mind, higher voltage difference and higher power = more heat.
Ack. I am yet to work on the wave maker. My preferred power head, koralia , will consume 12v ,1A
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
For those investigating power supplies, I went with this 12V power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JSC7E7M

and this 12v -> 5v stepdown converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3MHTYG

They're not tiny, but they don't generate a ton of heat.

I went far simpler for the relays and probe power supplies.
6e4329480466021d091afab2a1e3e820.png

Used the usb port to power since usb hubs are smaller than a power strip with all those adapters. And have ability to switch between 5v and 3.3v. This is not a great solution for anything that requires more power.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Ato question

So my ato works great, but instead of filling then stopping it engages the relay several times to get to its level. The sensor is detecting the peaks of the small waves created by filling, the wave stops and it repeats. Way to get say a delay between start of fill and when the sensor checks the level again?
 
Used the usb port to power since usb hubs are smaller than a power strip with all those adapters. And have ability to switch between 5v and 3.3v. This is not a great solution for anything that requires more power.

That's why I went with the bigger supply. There's one power input into my enclosure. It then splits (after the fuse) to the outlets for 110v and the 12v supply. The 12v will split between items needing 12v power (fans) and the 5v step-down that then feeds the Pi and other 5v items (relay board, PCA9685 board, etc).

I wanted an all in one solution. I will only be running a 29G AIO on this, so I don't think I'll be putting any unreasonable demands on the mains or the device's various power systems. If I were running something larger, with greater power demands, I would definitely do something a bit more modular.
 
Ato question

So my ato works great, but instead of filling then stopping it engages the relay several times to get to its level. The sensor is detecting the peaks of the small waves created by filling, the wave stops and it repeats. Way to get say a delay between start of fill and when the sensor checks the level again?
Yes, this needs to be improved. I have couple of ideas,
1) To use a PID controller
2) Have a minimum splay time in between ato pump being switched on.

Out of curiosity, did you try adjusting the tube that pours water via ato pump? I am using the smart ato micro pump, and the water tube pours water in the mid chamber, while the photoelectric sensor is mounted in the 3rd chamber, where return pump is located, in my biocube 29 G.
 
Looking for parts guidance:

I'm in search of a 40mmx10mm fan that can be controlled via PWM. 5v or 12v would both work. I need a pair to put into my BC29 hood.

Anyone have a suggestion? Ones they've used?
 
Yes, this needs to be improved. I have couple of ideas,
1) To use a PID controller
2) Have a minimum splay time in between ato pump being switched on.

Out of curiosity, did you try adjusting the tube that pours water via ato pump? I am using the smart ato micro pump, and the water tube pours water in the mid chamber, while the photoelectric sensor is mounted in the 3rd chamber, where return pump is located, in my biocube 29 G.

I have my sensor and water tube mounted together on an acrylic holder. What i did just do was change the direction and length of the tube so it now sends water away from the sensor. Will update in the effectiveness on this.
 
Looking for parts guidance:

I'm in search of a 40mmx10mm fan that can be controlled via PWM. 5v or 12v would both work. I need a pair to put into my BC29 hood.

Anyone have a suggestion? Ones they've used?
I gut my BC29 hood early on, for heating issue and went with kessil (another reason). I would search in nano-reef in case nothing comes up in r2r
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top