reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[MaccaPopEye]

Thanks for the info. I have some funky green PETG in my printer now. I'm going to see how a piece comes out, but first a dumb noob question:

When I opened the file in Cura, it looks like this. Shouldn't it print laying down on it's bottom???

Yes you will need to rotate it 90 degrees so it is lying flat (you can do this in cura itslef). Things I want to print almost never open up right in cura.

Edit: Also keep in mind that the mounting holes on the power board are for the relays I have (which are a bit weird), yours may be different so you may need to edit the mounting holes or just drill holes and put in your on stand off screws

 

[MaccaPopEye]

Short update.

I've completed 4 from 5 PCB's (including documentation and detailed BOM information in Kicad files such as MPN, Datasheets and links where they could be purchased, so far Mouser as they are available globally). I plan to order these boards from jlcpcb.com but since shipping costs are relatively high, I want to order all 5 different designs at once to test them, but then with fast delivery.
Completed are:
Main PWM module (8 * 10V output) with interface to a daughter board
1st daughter board extends with an additional 8 outputs, with voltage selectable between 5, 10 and 12V
2nd daughter board with 2 L293D motor drivers able to power 8 dose pumps with external power supply for the motors (note that only 1 daughter board can be added to the main PWM module with max 16 outputs in total). I've assumed that only 1 motor direction is required.
An I2C rail to connect multiple I2C modules to the Raspberry

The address of the main PWM module can be set, so multiple PWM modules can be used (Ranjib's preference to be flexible). So outputs would be almost unlimited

Pending is the HAT for the Raspberry. This HAT should have the remaining interfaces:
-Connection to a relay board(s) (ULM2803)
-Connection to DS18B20 temperature sensors
-Connection to optical ATO sensor

I would like to change the connectors to differentiate between the different functions, but as this would require much time (different dimensions), I want to test the present versions first and then start a redesign (smaller). So far only the PCA9685 is SMT size as it's only available in that housing.

Beside the BNC (probe's), any interface I'm missing?

This sounds awesome mate

With the main PWM board can you do 8 channels at 12V like with the 1st daughter board? Or if your lights are 12V would you need both the main PWM board + the 1st daughter board?

For the HAT, I will be using 2 power boards, 4x temp sensors (sump, tank, inside stand and ambient room), and then I will be filling up absolutely every last available GPIO pin with float switches so it would be great to have as many inputs for float switches / optical sensors as possible

I'm really keen to see how you go with this. Does jlcpcb ship worldwide?

 

[sjeff35]

Yes you will need to rotate it 90 degrees so it is lying flat (you can do this in cura itslef). Things I want to print almost never open up right in cura.

Edit: Also keep in mind that the mounting holes on the power board are for the relays I have (which are a bit weird), yours may be different so you may need to edit the mounting holes or just drill holes and put in your on stand off screws

Thanks, I've rotated things in Cura, but I had to ask if maybe I was doing it wrong and it needed to be printed standing up like that for some reason. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

 

[MaccaPopEye]

Thanks, I've rotated things in Cura, but I had to ask if maybe I was doing it wrong and it needed to be printed standing up like that for some reason. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

All good mate all the parts should be printed flat, let me know how you go

 

[Ranjib]

Short update.

I've completed 4 from 5 PCB's (including documentation and detailed BOM information in Kicad files such as MPN, Datasheets and links where they could be purchased, so far Mouser as they are available globally). I plan to order these boards from jlcpcb.com but since shipping costs are relatively high, I want to order all 5 different designs at once to test them, but then with fast delivery.
Completed are:
Main PWM module (8 * 10V output) with interface to a daughter board
1st daughter board extends with an additional 8 outputs, with voltage selectable between 5, 10 and 12V
2nd daughter board with 2 L293D motor drivers able to power 8 dose pumps with external power supply for the motors (note that only 1 daughter board can be added to the main PWM module with max 16 outputs in total). I've assumed that only 1 motor direction is required.
An I2C rail to connect multiple I2C modules to the Raspberry

The address of the main PWM module can be set, so multiple PWM modules can be used (Ranjib's preference to be flexible). So outputs would be almost unlimited

Pending is the HAT for the Raspberry. This HAT should have the remaining interfaces:
-Connection to a relay board(s) (ULM2803)
-Connection to DS18B20 temperature sensors
-Connection to optical ATO sensor

I would like to change the connectors to differentiate between the different functions, but as this would require much time (different dimensions), I want to test the present versions first and then start a redesign (smaller). So far only the PCA9685 is SMT size as it's only available in that housing.

Beside the BNC (probe's), any interface I'm missing?

I am wondering how two l293d is controlling 8 dosing pumps?
Do you plan to make the pcb designs opensource?

This is awesome, thanks for all the hard work

 

[janos]

Hi to all.Would like to know any of you have problem with the Temp sensor plug.(stereo jack)when i try to pull out and plug in again,RPI started to reboot,and now everything is stop working,can not even boot rpi.That stereo plug make something short when you pull out or reinsert?Thank you one more thing,could i run reef-pi on some different hardware?To me that is the second RPI what is stop working,the first one sd slot come off and i could not re-solder. Now the second one just stop working . Thank you

 

[wykat]

This sounds awesome mate

With the main PWM board can you do 8 channels at 12V like with the 1st daughter board? Or if your lights are 12V would you need both the main PWM board + the 1st daughter board?

For the HAT, I will be using 2 power boards, 4x temp sensors (sump, tank, inside stand and ambient room), and then I will be filling up absolutely every last available GPIO pin with float switches so it would be great to have as many inputs for float switches / optical sensors as possible

I'm really keen to see how you go with this. Does jlcpcb ship worldwide?

yes, just shortcut the 7810 ([pin's 1 and 3) and leave away the 7810

I am wondering how two l293d is controlling 8 dosing pumps?
Do you plan to make the pcb designs opensource?

This is awesome, thanks for all the hard work

Hi Ranjib,
yes I will design opensource to support your activity! That's why I spend much time on sources.
The main PWM board is designed to operate with 10V. When you want to use 12V, remove the LM7810 and short cut pin's 1 and 3, you'll have 12V PWM on the main PWM board. Only difference will be that you can't forward 10V to the daughter board.



With respect to the HAT, what do you mean with "2 power boards".

With respect to 8 channels, note my remark it will only rotate 1 motor in 1 direction. As I stated I don't expect to use the dose motors to move in 2 directions. This way each L293D can rotate 4 motors. If needed I'll design a different piggy board.

https://jlcpcb.com (include 'c') will ship worldwide. Present design is not optimized for 10x10 cm though. Give me some time to test the designs

 

[Rob Wheatley]

Hi all,
I was trying to build my own controller based on an Arduino but came across this thread and decided to give it a try.
Been steadily reading through this thread (yes I will get through all 272 pages of it) but I do want to ask a few questions that so far I have not seen an answer for.

I have setup a Pi3b with the 7" touch screen, and installed the latest 2.0.0 beta6 version of reef pi, all working well so far but just testing it.
I have connected to it:
8 way relay module
2 ds18b20 temp probes
1 optical level sensor (will have 3-4 in total at the end for Ato, sump high level and tank high level plus Ato res level.

Main question is...…..
Is there any way (apart from using a browser on the pi) of getting ReefPi to display and operate on the touch screen (as in an app or the like) or is it purely browser based?

Also are all of the gpio pins on the Pi usable for inputs and outputs (I count 26 that are marked gpio) or is there some that cannot be used?

Has anyone managed to control Jebao wavemakers with the ReefPi yet, is so how?

Sorry for the questions but its hard work reading through all the posts and I would like to see if I can get this tested and running one of my tanks soon if I can.

Rob

 

[MaccaPopEye]

yes, just shortcut the 7810 ([pin's 1 and 3) and leave away the 7810

Hi Ranjib,
yes I will design opensource to support your activity! That's why I spend much time on sources.
The main PWM board is designed to operate with 10V. When you want to use 12V, remove the LM7810 and short cut pin's 1 and 3, you'll have 12V PWM on the main PWM board. Only difference will be that you can't forward 10V to the daughter board.



With respect to the HAT, what do you mean with "2 power boards".

With respect to 8 channels, note my remark it will only rotate 1 motor in 1 direction. As I stated I don't expect to use the dose motors to move in 2 directions. This way each L293D can rotate 4 motors. If needed I'll design a different piggy board.

https://jlcpcb.com (include 'c') will ship worldwide. Present design is not optimized for 10x10 cm though. Give me some time to test the designs

Sorry, my '2 power boards' comment wasn't clear. I should have said '16 outlets' as I will be using 2x power boards that each have an 8 channel relay in them

Great to hear the PWM board will be able to do 12V as well. I'm Keen as to see how you go with this!

 

[Ranjib]

Hi to all.Would like to know any of you have problem with the Temp sensor plug.(stereo jack)when i try to pull out and plug in again,RPI started to reboot,and now everything is stop working,can not even boot rpi.That stereo plug make something short when you pull out or reinsert?Thank you one more thing,could i run reef-pi on some different hardware?To me that is the second RPI what is stop working,the first one sd slot come off and i could not re-solder. Now the second one just stop working . Thank you

Yes I have encountered this (and report somewhere in this thread), I think we should recommend a different 3pin connector for temperature sensor (like xlr/dmx ) .
After my initial experience with this issue I have started powering down pi before attaching new temperature sensor

 

[Ranjib]

Hi all,
I was trying to build my own controller based on an Arduino but came across this thread and decided to give it a try.
Been steadily reading through this thread (yes I will get through all 272 pages of it) but I do want to ask a few questions that so far I have not seen an answer for.

I have setup a Pi3b with the 7" touch screen, and installed the latest 2.0.0 beta6 version of reef pi, all working well so far but just testing it.
I have connected to it:
8 way relay module
2 ds18b20 temp probes
1 optical level sensor (will have 3-4 in total at the end for Ato, sump high level and tank high level plus Ato res level.

Main question is...…..
Is there any way (apart from using a browser on the pi) of getting ReefPi to display and operate on the touch screen (as in an app or the like) or is it purely browser based?

Also are all of the gpio pins on the Pi usable for inputs and outputs (I count 26 that are marked gpio) or is there some that cannot be used?

Has anyone managed to control Jebao wavemakers with the ReefPi yet, is so how?

Sorry for the questions but its hard work reading through all the posts and I would like to see if I can get this tested and running one of my tanks soon if I can.

Rob

Hi rob
Thank you for considering reef-pi.
All gpio port can be used either as input or output , but you are right some have special use , for example gpio 4 is used for temperature sensor , while 18 & 19 is used for pwm ...and there are few others . I would say you are safe to use up to 16 -18 gpio pin safely
This is for 1.0, but still relevant
https://reef-pi.github.io/general-guides/electronics/

 

[janos]

Thank you Ranjib and the second question? could i use some another board,(asus tinker)linux based,.Thank you.My trust is lost in rpi3b+ and here in Canada not cheap.59.95 for board +tax +ps ++++

 

[Ranjib]

Thank you Ranjib and the second question? could i use some another board,(asus tinker)linux based,.Thank you.My trust is lost in rpi3b+ and here in Canada not cheap.59.95 for board +tax +ps ++++

I dont know, I have to try and test it out. I assume some parts will need some changes. Tinkerboard is more expensive than pi in USA. If you have a link/info of a specific board that you think you can source easily, let me know, i'll check the specs and get back to you

 

[Ranjib]

Way too much tech stuff ..

 

[Ranjib]

Way too much tech stuff ..

 

[janos]

Thank you Ranjib,the tinker board more expensive but i have used asus for 20 year long and never ever had any problem with the board and the components.Have only one site: https://www.asus.com/ca-en/Single-Board-Computer/Tinker-Board/
Thank you for your help and that tons of work what you provide for the forum members.System was working for one month and today my fan just turned on for no reason i check the pi and my temp sensor reported 120 for the pi so pi turn the fan on.But in real life temp was ok on the second temp sensor.This is when i try to pull out the 3.5 mm stereo jack and plug in again.Pi started to reset by it self,on the setting page (web browser)i click the reboot button and from there never started.@Raspberry forum they suggested wait for 1or2 day and the Polyfuse will reset by it self.

 

[Zephrant]

Anyone give this pH probe a try? $40 with shipping.

Analog pH Meter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BNG41KO

 

[njtiger aquariums]

Yes I have encountered this (and report somewhere in this thread), I think we should recommend a different 3pin connector for temperature sensor (like xlr/dmx ) .
After my initial experience with this issue I have started powering down pi before attaching new temperature sensor

I do not know what these connectors are called. I got them from my brother who got them for his chrismtas lights. I have discconected the sensor a couple of times with no issues. I even programed my system that if it doesn't see the temp sesnor to disable the code that checks for the temp.

 

[janos]

Yes that would be the right thing.No mistake from user when unplug or insert under RPI power.

 

[Rob Wheatley]

Hi rob
Thank you for considering reef-pi.
All gpio port can be used either as input or output , but you are right some have special use , for example gpio 4 is used for temperature sensor , while 18 & 19 is used for pwm ...and there are few others . I would say you are safe to use up to 16 -18 gpio pin safely
This is for 1.0, but still relevant
https://reef-pi.github.io/general-guides/electronics/

Hi Ranjib
No thank you for the chance to try it, so far it does nearly all the things I was looking for.

I did see in the thread a suggestion for a feed button that would be very handy, not sure how easy it would be to code in ( I'm very new to code, can do a little bit for the arduino but not really got the hang of python etc yet)

Also the ability to use the touch display as the controller, that would be icing on the cake, the web based one works fine on a laptop but on the 7" display the graphs overlap each other, would make checking the parameters easier too as the Pi would be right next to the tank anyway.

Once I have tested it for a while it will be put to use on my hospital tank first, I made an ATO for that with an arduino, float switches and a timer relay to prevent the pump running to long, that does work but every now and again it takes to long to top up and the safety cuts it off. The return to the sump is a worry to, I had to put a valve on it to keep it quiet but if it blocks there is no overflow so needed something to cut the return pump off if the tank level got to high, Reefpi will do that nicely.

I have just ordered 4 of the optical level sensors from DFRobot with the interface boards, the ones I'm using are the same sensor (banggood) but I have to add the resistors and extend the wires so in effect they are more expensive than DFRobot (and a pain to do)

Lighting is not to much of a problem as the hospital tank only has basic non dimmable blue and whites so a timer and relay will do them but the main tank has dsuny full spectrum ones so not sure if they are hackable as the controller plugs into one of the lights.

I did make a unit to power all the pumps, wavemakers, doser, ATO etc on the main tank from one 24v 25 amp power supply with a home brew battery backup, mainly to get rid of all the individual power bricks and the free up sockets (in the UK they are a pain that the take up so much room) so adding Reefpi to that will be quite easy.

Thanks again, I'm sure I will be asking loads more questions [emoji846]