reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Anything that emits digital output (1/0) will work, including this one (you can see the digital read code in arduino example). I dont know if its appropriate to use in saltwater environment though. But from reef-pi's perspective, this is kosher

They claim because it never comes in contact with the liquid, it is suitable for use in corrosive acids etc. I'm going to give it a bash.
 
Thank you try to read just forget how do i installed the first RPI what is still running without any problem
 
Man Wykat, you're not having much luck with these components :/

Glad they finally arrived though, keen to hear how you go with testing!
The PCB's look very good and I tried the paste dispenser/reflow oven today. Short summary, my first trial with positioning the PCA9685 with 2 corners on the previous design and then use a hot air gun with solder paste worked better. The solder paste/reflow has less control over the final positioning of the PCA9685.

The first trial showed a lot (approx 25%) short cuts. I was able to remove these with desoldering braid (trick: When it doesn't remove the short cut immediately, solder pins with solder iron to shortcut more rigid, then remove it with desoldering braid again). This board is ok now, ready to install the remaining components :)

The second trial I reduced the amount of solder paste from the dispenser by 25%, but short cuts remained. So far I couldn't remove 1 short cut from this PCBA, need to make some detailed photo's to understand the reason.

I already knew one problem on the PWM module, the distance of the 2.5mm connectors are too close for the male plugs. It's basically not a big issue as the outer connection are all connected to ground (so you can use them without plastic housing), may need to think about this. This was the reason asking for the required current for the 7810 component earlier.
 
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The PCB's look very good and I tried the paste dispenser/reflow oven today. Short summary, my first trial with positioning the PCA9685 with 2 corners on the previous design and then use a hot air gun with solder paste worked better. The solder paste/reflow has less control over the final positioning of the PCA9685.

The first trial showed a lot (approx 25%) short cuts. I was able to remove these with desoldering braid (trick: When it doesn't remove the short cut immediately, solder pins with solder iron to shortcut more rigid, then remove it with desoldering braid again). This board is ok now, ready to install the remaining components :)

The second trial I reduced the amount of solder paste from the dispenser by 25%, but short cuts remained. So far I couldn't remove 1 short cut from this PCBA, need to make some detailed photo's to understand the reason.

I already knew one problem on the PWM module, the distance of the 2.5mm connectors are too close for the male plugs. It's basically not a big issue as the outer connection are all connected to ground (so you can use them without plastic housing), may need to think about this. This was the reason asking for the required current for the 7810 component earlier.

I've never had success with solder paste unless I use a stencil. For me it is much more reliable that way. I find that to much paste is always applied by the dispenser. For small batches, I usually prefer to just hand solder.

I look forward to seeing some completed circuits. Do you have the designs on github or somewhere else?
 
https://github.com/vandegraaf/Reef-PI_PCBs

Do note, the PWM files are OLD! The HAT files are ok, although I haven't tested the lastest PCB design, but it's just cosmetics (stronger voltage connections).

I can't use hand solder myself due to some disease but as mentioned earlier most people will be able to use this method without problems. Will keep you updated and if you want I can upload the latest PWM files. But as said I still have to complete a PCBA to test
 
Hi Ranjib what that is mean fail to run http server

Screenshot from 2018-09-19 14-52-17.png
 
@Ranjib I think I found a bug.

so I added my new ULN2803A board today. it was super easy to solder the pins on and then I just ran connectors from them to another new toy board I got today too. It is a GPIO expansion to give me solderless access to the pins. (yea Im lazy and scared to mess up what I have) Anyways, once I got it all connected and buttoned up and booted up. I added these 8 new "connectors" in the config page. I am labelingg them 2-1, 2-2, 2-3 etc. each time I hit add, it saves them as 2-1 and then shows in use. a refresh of the page and going back in solves this. But also they are not in numerical order as I entered them either here.

AMZ error.JPG
 
@Ranjib I think I found a bug.

so I added my new ULN2803A board today. it was super easy to solder the pins on and then I just ran connectors from them to another new toy board I got today too. It is a GPIO expansion to give me solderless access to the pins. (yea Im lazy and scared to mess up what I have) Anyways, once I got it all connected and buttoned up and booted up. I added these 8 new "connectors" in the config page. I am labelingg them 2-1, 2-2, 2-3 etc. each time I hit add, it saves them as 2-1 and then shows in use. a refresh of the page and going back in solves this. But also they are not in numerical order as I entered them either here.

AMZ error.JPG
Thanks for the details. This is similar to a UI bug that was discovered recently. We have it tracked in Issue 555 and will fix it soon. I'll add a comment to validate the connectors and inlets while we fix this issue.
 
Hi Ranjib it looks ok to me but when i go to browser and type in the IP address nothing happen.

Screenshot from 2018-09-19 18-44-20.png


This site can’t be reached
192.168.1.3 refused to connect.

Try:

ERR_CONNECTION_REFUSED
Is the ip correct ? Can you share the output of these two commands
Code:
ifconfig

And
Code:
sudo netstat -tulnp
 
Back from my trip over seas and had a couple Amazon packages waiting for me. :)

A few more bits and a little spare time (Yeah, right) and I will be able to embark on my build. I'm looking forward to learning as I go.
 
Reef-PI_PWM module assembled (but not electrically tested yet). Physically it does fit perfectly, except the large capacitor is too high to add more boards and as expected the space between the connectors is too small if I can't find a better 2.5mm mono plug.

upload_2018-9-20_13-2-29.png
;Happy

The modules are from bottom to top, Raspberry PI, Reef-PI_HAT and Reef_PI_PWM and provide following functions:
16 digital outputs (for external relays board)
2 ATO interfaces for optical sensors
2 Dosing pump interfaces
DS18B20 interface for multiple temperature sensors
16 PWM interfaces

At the moment the 12->10V converter is missing on the Reef-PI_PWM module (but I can start testing with 12V) as well as the DS18B20 and Relays connectors on the Reef-PI_HAT.

After I've checked the PWM module I will start some updates, but first I want to have this module working.:D
 
IP scanner show 192.168.1.2 is my first reef-pi is working,and the light is grren and the second 192.168.1.3 ip shows but light is blue on the IP scanner.Do not know it is something or i just get paranoid.

Screenshot from 2018-09-20 07-48-05.png
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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