reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Diamond1]

I am ashamed I've lived with his mess for so long.

Looking to build a side cabinet. I'm thinking putting all the outlets on the side facing the tank, a touch screen display on the top front and a lower storage area for some frequently used supplies

Yeah you need a reef pi.

 

[ScottBrew]

Works BUT .. YEA There is always a butt ..
But I have to get a float switch that is Reversed from the ones i have . OR one with Dual floats

Can you flip the float on the post to reverse the direction it actuates?

 

[Des Westcott]

Works BUT .. YEA There is always a butt ..
But I have to get a float switch that is Reversed from the ones i have . OR one with Dual floats

What levels are the two float switches at? Is there enough space between their levels?

Low (ATO trigger) should be far enough below High (Over full Trigger) so that no water ripples or disturbance can cause confusion between the two. I used to run a similar setup with two float switches controlling two pumps and in the beginning, One to top up when low and one to pump to waste if over full. I had them too close together and they "fought" each other and one or the other was constantly running. I gave them more space (50mm) and then it settled down.

I then changed them to run in series as ScottBrew suggested with a space of about 30mm between them. Under normal running, the top switch is constantky closed and the bottom one opens and closes on water level to control the ATO. If the bottom switch fails in the closed position, when the water gets to the top switch the ATO pump should switch off. This is not technically proper over-full protection, but merely a safeguard in case the lower limit switch fails in on mode.

I now run a single ATO sensor in the return chamber of my sumpa nd have a (relatively) small RO top-up reservoir. I have a float switch in the RO reservoir to cut off at low level to protect the top-up pump from running dry. I use this method now because I run Kalkwasser (stirrer? reactor? Nilsen reactor?) on all my top-up water and would rather this limit the amount of kalk that can be dumped into the tank.

BTW, I now believe that all pumps that run in a variable level situation (Return, RO Top-Up etc) should have a low-level cut-off switch. I know a few reefers that would have saved a good amount of money if something like that was in place. In the most extreme case I saw, a return pump ran dry and caught fire!

Des

 

[Des Westcott]

I was just thinking........

What are the licensing implications around creating a .img file with Raspbian and the latest Reef-Pi already installed?

That way, anyone wanting to get started would be able to download a .img and flash the card and be almost ready to go?

I understand maintaining this would be more work, but might make it easier for some people to get going with Reef-Pi

 

[Erica-Renee]

Can you flip the float on the post to reverse the direction it actuates?

That is what i done. But this leaves the Wires under the water.I will rethink my Float mounts or Get one to be one reversed from what i have now.

 

[Erica-Renee]

What levels are the two float switches at? Is there enough space between their levels?

Low (ATO trigger) should be far enough below High (Over full Trigger) so that no water ripples or disturbance can cause confusion between the two. I used to run a similar setup with two float switches controlling two pumps and in the beginning, One to top up when low and one to pump to waste if over full. I had them too close together and they "fought" each other and one or the other was constantly running. I gave them more space (50mm) and then it settled down.

I then changed them to run in series as ScottBrew suggested with a space of about 30mm between them. Under normal running, the top switch is constantky closed and the bottom one opens and closes on water level to control the ATO. If the bottom switch fails in the closed position, when the water gets to the top switch the ATO pump should switch off. This is not technically proper over-full protection, but merely a safeguard in case the lower limit switch fails in on mode.

I now run a single ATO sensor in the return chamber of my sumpa nd have a (relatively) small RO top-up reservoir. I have a float switch in the RO reservoir to cut off at low level to protect the top-up pump from running dry. I use this method now because I run Kalkwasser (stirrer? reactor? Nilsen reactor?) on all my top-up water and would rather this limit the amount of kalk that can be dumped into the tank.

BTW, I now believe that all pumps that run in a variable level situation (Return, RO Top-Up etc) should have a low-level cut-off switch. I know a few reefers that would have saved a good amount of money if something like that was in place. In the most extreme case I saw, a return pump ran dry and caught fire!

Des

My Sump return chamber is VERY BIG.. But what i want is a Low level sensor to shut the pump off if the ATO is empy or fails. A high Level to shut the return pump off if the Tank over flows . There is also a float switch for the inside of the tank to shut the pump off if the water level in the tank gets to high (different circuit) There are images in my thread link

 

[LionHeart2017]

That is what i done. But this leaves the Wires under the water.I will rethink my Float mounts or Get one to be one reversed from what i have now.

I think he means the ring only, the ring is reversible, pull off the circlip and take of the floaty ring, turn it over and put it back on the post and its function reverses

 

[Erica-Renee]

I think he means the ring only, the ring is reversible, pull off the circlip and take of the floaty ring, turn it over and put it back on the post and its function reverses

I did not know this. Will give it a try when my Coffee and Paperwork is done... I am doing a estimate and billing

Thank you

 

[b4tn]

Is there a setting somewhere to get sensors to send data to adafruit IO? I have it setup in telemetry with my user name and key. But the only feeds that are updating are system load and memory, last reading was 12 seconds ago. My temp probes, ATO, and heater are being listed but showing no data with a last reading of 12 hours ago, which is when when I set it up.

 

[Erica-Renee]

I did not know this. Will give it a try when my Coffee and Paperwork is done... I am doing a estimate and billing

Thank you

IT Works it works .. I feel STUPID ... I Had one i tested as BAD as i just put it in the closed position and tested it... It was Reversed... But it does make sense they are reversible..

 

[b4tn]

OK. removed all adafruit telemetry info from Reef-pi. I then reloaded. then I regenerated a new key from adafruit and re-activated the telemetry in reefpi and input this new key. I see feeds now in adafruit, but some do not have data.

Here is what I see on the feeds. none of the temperature ones are getting information.

@pickupman66 , Did you ever get this worked out? I am getting the same thing as you.

 

[Diamond1]

Question:
I'm planning my ATO and was wondering if I can use an optical sensor for the sump water level and a mechanical sensor for the low level sensor in my ato supply? If so how would that work creating the circuit for the mechanical sensor.

 

[pickupman66]

@pickupman66 , Did you ever get this worked out? I am getting the same thing as you.

Yes. IIRC, I removed the spaces in the names of the items.

 

[Erica-Renee]

Question:
I'm planning my ATO and was wondering if I can use an optical sensor for the sump water level and a mechanical sensor for the low level sensor in my ato supply? If so how would that work creating the circuit for the mechanical sensor.

REEF-Pi treats both sensors the same It does not know the Difference..

 

[Des Westcott]

My Sump return chamber is VERY BIG.. But what i want is a Low level sensor to shut the pump off if the ATO is empy or fails. A high Level to shut the return pump off if the Tank over flows . There is also a float switch for the inside of the tank to shut the pump off if the water level in the tank gets to high (different circuit) There are images in my thread link

My belief has always been to have the chamber with the return pump in as small as possible. I've even had it in a plastic container. The reason behind this is that the smaller the volume you have there, the smaller a change you need to trigger a top-up -> more frequent smaller top-ups -> more stable. In this example with a low level trigger (of sorts), the sooner you could know that something is wrong.

Just re-reading you post, I have realised something - I have always installed float switch pump protection by simply having a float switch in series with the pump and if the water level drops past critical point, it simply switches the pump off. BUT, with Reef-Pi, you could also set any pump up with a level sensor at the low level and run the pump as an ATO (in reverse). That way you could set up an alert to let you know if the pump or system fails. Am I correct here? I think I am. This changes the way I look at this completely.

 

[b4tn]

Question:
I'm planning my ATO and was wondering if I can use an optical sensor for the sump water level and a mechanical sensor for the low level sensor in my ato supply? If so how would that work creating the circuit for the mechanical sensor.

@Diamond1 I used this circuit and it works as expected.

 

[Diamond1]

REEF-Pi treats both sensors the same It does not know the Difference..

Thank you just what i needed to know.

 

[b4tn]

Yes. IIRC, I removed the spaces in the names of the items.

Thanks, that did it.

 

[Erica-Renee]

My belief has always been to have the chamber with the return pump in as small as possible. I've even had it in a plastic container. The reason behind this is that the smaller the volume you have there, the smaller a change you need to trigger a top-up -> more frequent smaller top-ups -> more stable. In this example with a low level trigger (of sorts), the sooner you could know that something is wrong.

Just re-reading you post, I have realised something - I have always installed float switch pump protection by simply having a float switch in series with the pump and if the water level drops past critical point, it simply switches the pump off. BUT, with Reef-Pi, you could also set any pump up with a level sensor at the low level and run the pump as an ATO (in reverse). That way you could set up an alert to let you know if the pump or system fails. Am I correct here? I think I am. This changes the way I look at this completely.

Yes My Return pump is set up controlled by ATO Sensor... Two of them actually.. One is in the sump (LOW WATER LEVEL) The other will be Above the top of the Actual Aquarium (HIGH LEVEL) So if the tank over flow clogs it will trigger pump off . If the water level goes to low in the sump it will trigger pump off..

I CAN NOT have low or small Return Chamber .My tank is in the living room , my sump is in the basement under the Kitchen. so the Drain flows down 9 feet over 14 feet . the return goes up 6 feet over about 7 feet then up 8 to 9 feet to get over the top of the tank. The hammerhead would Litterer SUCK THE SUMP Chamber so low it would pull in air... Also the Amount of water in the pipes is Amazing . So during a POWER OUTAGE test i drain back at least 20 gallons. This would over run a SMALL Return chamber and cause the Skimmer to over flow because of water over flow into that area of the sump..

My new Sump is designed around my Trial and Error with the Above situations in mind. I have been working thru this for Years to make the tank as hands off as much as possible.
But for smaller tanks I kinda agree with your thanking.. Even 30 gallons of fresh water dumped into my System at ones Barely touches the Salinity or anything else as far as that matters.. I do 60 gallon water changes when the whole system is running.. My Refugium is a 55 gallon drum split from top to bottom using each half plumbed together. I am not sure exactly how many gallons of water But its a lot. I have found the more water the less testing.

 

[b4tn]

Yes My Return pump is set up controlled by ATO Sensor... Two of them actually.. One is in the sump (LOW WATER LEVEL) The other will be Above the top of the Actual Aquarium (HIGH LEVEL) So if the tank over flow clogs it will trigger pump off . If the water level goes to low in the sump it will trigger pump off..

I CAN NOT have low or small Return Chamber .My tank is in the living room , my sump is in the basement under the Kitchen. so the Drain flows down 9 feet over 14 feet . the return goes up 6 feet over about 7 feet then up 8 to 9 feet to get over the top of the tank. The hammerhead would Litterer SUCK THE SUMP Chamber so low it would pull in air... Also the Amount of water in the pipes is Amazing . So during a POWER OUTAGE test i drain back at least 20 gallons. This would over run a SMALL Return chamber and cause the Skimmer to over flow because of water over flow into that area of the sump..

My new Sump is designed around my Trial and Error with the Above situations in mind. I have been working thru this for Years to make the tank as hands off as much as possible.
But for smaller tanks I kinda agree with your thanking.. Even 30 gallons of fresh water dumped into my System at ones Barely touches the Salinity or anything else as far as that matters.. I do 60 gallon water changes when the whole system is running.. My Refugium is a 55 gallon drum split from top to bottom using each half plumbed together. I am not sure exactly how many gallons of water But its a lot. I have found the more water the less testing.

I always wanted to do this, putting my sump in the basement. It would not be hard to do for me but the cost of a pump that can pump up 15 feet vertical made me change my mind lol