reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[DaveWasabi]

Just been to this thread. It's amazing, the things you can do with a few tools and electronics at your disposal.

 

[Ranjib]

Just been to this thread. It's amazing, the things you can do with a few tools and electronics at your disposal.

thank you for the kind words

 

[Ranjib]

Hi Ranjib it is possible if you can tell know how much current does the kessil A80 0-10v draw per channel? I figure must be slow low 50ma ish per channel?

I'm calculating to see if my sinking output can handle the job or not. I'm using an automation hat there 3x 24v sinking output on board but can only handle 500ma combine. I already got one of the output slotted out to run 2x 12v fan at 150ma each. So not much amp left to share.

under 40ma, but use common npn transistors (2n222a ) to gate the pi or pca9685 pwm output

 

[Ranjib]

Some possible uses
1. Measuring how much water is let in R.O. rather than just 'Refill'
2. Using Reefpi to automate water changes in a more dynamic way e.g. 10l or 20l rather than at a set point of the infrared sensor

This first use case is incomplete, like what to do after you know the level .. the second use case can be done using peristaltic pumps, folks already does this and without using any water level sensor, as we need to only add /remove fixed amount of water for this.

 

[Ranjib]

Just finished a pi3 all in one build with 3d printed enclosure .

This one can do one temp sensor, one float switch , one kessil and one ph probe .

Similar to the last all in one build (I’m upgrading my builds to use 3d printed enclosures) this one has space for accessing pi 3 usb and hdmi ports

The electronics is very similar to other all in one build except it does not have the adj powerstrip control circuit involving 12v and uln2893a.

Overall pretty happy with the result . I used 3mm walls for this build , which made it pretty sturdy .
Here are both of my 3dprinted builds

Now back to 3.0 feature development ..

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Just finished a pi3 all in one build with 3d printed enclosure .

This one can do one temp sensor, one float switch , one kessil and one ph probe .

Similar to the last all in one build (I’m upgrading my builds to use 3d printed enclosures) this one has space for accessing pi 3 usb and hdmi ports

The electronics is very similar to other all in one build except it does not have the adj powerstrip control circuit involving 12v and uln2893a.

Overall pretty happy with the result . I used 3mm walls for this build , which made it pretty sturdy .
Here are both of my 3dprinted builds

Now back to 3.0 feature development ..

Lookin good!

I want a 3D printer.

 

[Bigtrout]

Just finished a pi3 all in one build with 3d printed enclosure .

This one can do one temp sensor, one float switch , one kessil and one ph probe .

Similar to the last all in one build (I’m upgrading my builds to use 3d printed enclosures) this one has space for accessing pi 3 usb and hdmi ports

The electronics is very similar to other all in one build except it does not have the adj powerstrip control circuit involving 12v and uln2893a.

Overall pretty happy with the result . I used 3mm walls for this build , which made it pretty sturdy .
Here are both of my 3dprinted builds

Now back to 3.0 feature development ..

Very nice...send me one...lol!

 

[Alaa]

Hi all
Quick question
Can i use pi roi and pca board on the same time ine to control lights and the other fot doser if so do i connect both pca board and the motor board to same raspberry pi pins
Thanks for all your support

 

[Ranjib]

Hi all
Quick question
Can i use pi roi and pca board on the same time ine to control lights and the other fot doser if so do i connect both pca board and the motor board to same raspberry pi pins
Thanks for all your support

Yes you can , but I’m curious if you need all 16 channels of pca9685 as well as pi ‘s two channel. At that scale you are likely to need more power management circuit . If you don’t need that many channel just use pca9685 for pwm

 

[Schreiber]

Sorry i missed that. What happens when you run calibration at speed 50 for 10 seconds? Can you check the log and take reading with multimeter on the l293d pwm and in1/in2 pins?

Oh man, it's been awhile. I've been constantly traveling for work & haven't had time to get back to working on this until this weekend. I found my issue with the equipment control (bad solder connection) & found out my temperature issues were due to a faulty sensor.

But I'm still stumped by dosing unfortunately. Output 1-4 are reading at a constant 2.7 volts whether or not I'm running calibration.

Input 1, 3, & 4 are reading constant 0 volts. Input 2 has around 0.5 volts.

Any advice where to go from here?

 

[Alaa]

Yes you can , but I’m curious if you need all 16 channels of pca9685 as well as pi ‘s two channel. At that scale you are likely to need more power management circuit . If you don’t need that many channel just use pca9685 for pwm

Thanks for your response
I don't need the 16 channels but can i use for both leds and motors at the same time with the same frequency

 

[Ranjib]

Oh man, it's been awhile. I've been constantly traveling for work & haven't had time to get back to working on this until this weekend. I found my issue with the equipment control (bad solder connection) & found out my temperature issues were due to a faulty sensor.

But I'm still stumped by dosing unfortunately. Output 1-4 are reading at a constant 2.7 volts whether or not I'm running calibration.

Input 1, 3, & 4 are reading constant 0 volts. Input 2 has around 0.5 volts.

Any advice where to go from here?

you are using pca9685 for pwm?

 

[Schreiber]

you are using pca9685 for pwm?

I do have a pca9685 in my build, but only for the light control, which I haven't got to configuring yet.

The pwm for my dosers is controlled by GPIO 18 & 19.

For reference, here is my list of connections:

 

[janos]

Hi to all would like to know there is a problem if i build everything in one box?Have a nice small Acer Acprire box and everything would fit good,the hole thing looks good just don't know it is any problem like electric isolation or something else.Thank you

 

[Bigtrout]

Hi to all would like to know there is a problem if i build everything in one box?Have a nice small Acer Acprire box and everything would fit good,the hole thing looks good just don't know it is any problem like electric isolation or something else.Thank you

I almoat did the same thing, using a computer case, which is ok if you use ethernet. I have a pi zero w and was afraid a fully enclosed case would affect wifi of the pi.

 

[janos]

Thank you [B]Bigtrout[/B] i could use Ethernet if i need to just like to be sure no electrical noise will cause any problem.Looks nice that box and fit perfect everything .Thank you (and that case i have 12v 5v and 3.3v if i need

 

[Bigtrout]

Thank you [B]Bigtrout[/B] i could use Ethernet if i need to just like to be sure no electrical noise will cause any problem.Looks nice that box and fit perfect everything .Thank you (and that case i have 12v 5v and 3.3v if i need

Other than the wifi issue, you should have no issues. In fact with the case being grounded, everything is a safer especially your 120v stuff, and probably more immune to noise

I LIKE IT, looks nice.

 

[janos]

Thank you now i could build and putt together everything.

 

[Bzar]

For anyone interested in adding temp sensors without soldering a resister you can use the on board raspberry pi resistors to the pin of your temp sensor data line. Just make a python script that runs the pull up code for that pin and have it run at startup in something like rc.local...I've found this much more reliable as some of these temp sensors are really sensitive manipulation.

#TempPullup.py
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
import time
GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)

GPIO.setup(##, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_UP)

#Script End


## being the pin you put the temp sensor data line to.

Cheers.

 

[Mad_Deuce]

Hi Ranjib I been read up all your project forum over at adafruit and github site. I notice one of the built for mulit kessil control section your using a dc-dc buck to get 10v from the 12v power supply. I'm trying to limit the size of the overall project box as small as possible, is there a reason why not to just use an 10v regulator on the 12v power supply? btw only need 2 pwm channel so not using an pca9685 break out board.