Reef Pi dimming test problems and Raspberry pi native two hardware PWM vs PCA9685

[Ranjib]

Sad to hear that, but I guess if you really only need this lighting feature, it’s probably for the best right now.
Maybe in the future I’ll have a look into the Reef-Pi code and help @Ranjib with this feature, if I am able to, as I want pretty much the same thing ^^

Yes we will. This and couple of similar things are a major pain for the Esp32 based systems as well . We don’t want to always update the value, only when it’s changed

 

[Sral]

Yes we will. This and couple of similar things are a major pain for the Esp32 based systems as well . We don’t want to always update the value, only when it’s changed

When doing this we might also think about restructuring how „lights“ work, so one could for example group together different channels to a single light and create more complex profiles, like adding / multiplying two components.

The latter would enable random weather patterns on a standard daily cycle, or enable driving wavemakers on a tide cycle (not sure if that‘s even a thing ^^).

 

[oreo54]

If you want to " dim to zero" 0-10v or 1-10v is not the dimming protocol to use.
I normally don't put things like this but add.....ever.
It is a stupid " industry standard" that was popular for ease of implementation and cheap

Analog signals: 0…10 V vs. 4…20 mA | Balluff

automation-insights.blog

Best to just get LEDs as constant voltage or already micro-controlled ( I e timers/dimmers) . Usually much easier to "hack".

If it wasn't for the Apex system or large ac/dc drivers it would already be dead..

Problems as old as using LEDs for aquariums. Probably older since it was used in dimmable flourescent ballasts.

Interested in Apex/RK controlled d120's?

I'm working on a circuit to use an Arduino Uno and a digital potentiometer to allow an Apex to do dimming on a D120. Is this something folks would be interested in? Would cost about $40-50 for parts to control 6 channels of D120's, so 3 D120 units total. Edit: Would do this: http://arduino.cc/en/...

wamas.org

 

[bishoptf]

@SpyLand I know I am late to the party but I am having issues with getting a Nicrew light to work but thought I would pass this on. I have played with several blackboxes and using Viparspectras to dim, heavily modified Vipar's, replacing diodes to remove excess white etc...the one thing in common with most of the cheap 2 channel lights is that they are usually bright and even when you can dim the down to 1%, even on one channel they are usually way to bright...so how I solved that was to add additional led strips, at least to the vipar, in between the main lights. The led strips are not near as bright but then I use them as moon lights but I also use them as pre-ramp and post-ramp of the main lights. I ramp them up before the main lights come on and then ramp them up at the end of the day and then down and off. @oreo54 is correct with his suggestion, you can use a simple mosfet circuit see @Ranjib lighting controller write up where he covers the circuit for actinic lighting. Since the led's are less powerful you 1% barely shows up so you can really fine tune them, takes some playing around but you can get the ramps to be pretty close.

I'n my case I am using vipar and just mounted the strips in between the LED's but I am working on a new build and thinking of going with Nicrews, in that case I am just going to pick up one of the many LED bar strips that are based on those low power led's and do the same thing mounted to the back of the light, then use reef-pi to ramp it up and down.

Here is an idea of what it looks like with a vipar with integrated led strips - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/controlling-viparspectra-lights.698216/post-7454741
Keep in mind you could do the same thing with one low powered LED bar with the strip in the bar. Just thought I would throw that out there...