Impressive!
You can buy your own Doll starting at $367.500 and it takes 3 months to get it with your own personal written message
https://robbreport.com/style/watch-...s-on-in-jaquet-drozs-signing-machine-2787095/
Reef-PI_<PCB's>
- Thread starter wykat
- Start date
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You can buy your own Doll starting at $367.500 and it takes 3 months to get it with your own personal written message
https://robbreport.com/style/watch-...s-on-in-jaquet-drozs-signing-machine-2787095/
Reef-PI_PWM PCB files are now available on Github 
https://github.com/vandegraaf/Reef-PI_PCBs
No changes between v0.3 and v1.0 have been made to the schematics but following to the PCB design:
1) Moved some resistors in order to avoid a conflict between the solder points and the DS18B20 interface below it on the Reef-PI_HAT PCBA
2) Solved (at least I hope so) a conflict between the edge-cut and drill files. PCBWAY.com always complained correctly about this (use drill file, then it's ok, no reason to have an edge-cut around the solder points)
3) Updated the silk screen
4) Moved the right corner (between all PWM output connectors) mounting hole 0.3mm down to fit correctly
The changes were more difficult as PCBWAY.com complained about a conflict between the layers edge-cut and drill file. Unfortunately Kicad doesn't have a feature in v5 to correct the edge-cut file for components so it took some time to sort out how to solve (at the end I edited the component file with a text editor to delete the conflict and had to reinstall all connectors with the new file in Kicad).
You can see the movement of some resistors in the picture below:
https://github.com/vandegraaf/Reef-PI_PCBs
No changes between v0.3 and v1.0 have been made to the schematics but following to the PCB design:
1) Moved some resistors in order to avoid a conflict between the solder points and the DS18B20 interface below it on the Reef-PI_HAT PCBA
2) Solved (at least I hope so) a conflict between the edge-cut and drill files. PCBWAY.com always complained correctly about this (use drill file, then it's ok, no reason to have an edge-cut around the solder points)
3) Updated the silk screen
4) Moved the right corner (between all PWM output connectors) mounting hole 0.3mm down to fit correctly
The changes were more difficult as PCBWAY.com complained about a conflict between the layers edge-cut and drill file. Unfortunately Kicad doesn't have a feature in v5 to correct the edge-cut file for components so it took some time to sort out how to solve (at the end I edited the component file with a text editor to delete the conflict and had to reinstall all connectors with the new file in Kicad).
You can see the movement of some resistors in the picture below:
AwesomeReef-PI_PWM PCB files are now available on Github
https://github.com/vandegraaf/Reef-PI_PCBs
No changes between v0.3 and v1.0 have been made to the schematics but following to the PCB design:
1) Moved some resistors in order to avoid a conflict between the solder points and the DS18B20 interface below it on the Reef-PI_HAT PCBA
2) Solved (at least I hope so) a conflict between the edge-cut and drill files. PCBWAY.com always complained correctly about this (use drill file, then it's ok, no reason to have an edge-cut around the solder points)
3) Updated the silk screen
4) Moved the right corner (between all PWM output connectors) mounting hole 0.3mm down to fit correctly
The changes were more difficult as PCBWAY.com complained about a conflict between the layers edge-cut and drill file. Unfortunately Kicad doesn't have a feature in v5 to correct the edge-cut file for components so it took some time to sort out how to solve (at the end I edited the component file with a text editor to delete the conflict and had to reinstall all connectors with the new file in Kicad).
You can see the movement of some resistors in the picture below:
rushbattle
Valuable Member
I’ll check screamingcircuits.com this week, they have pretty reasonable pricing.Ordered my pwm PCB's
I got a quote to assemble with just the SMD but it was stupidly expensive so I'll just have to hope I can do it myself!
Make sure you have solder wick! Don't be too concerned if you short cut some pins, they can easily be removed with solder wick. I think (not tried yet) best is to use a thicker solder tip both to not damage the board and to have a better heat transfer to the solder wick.Ordered my pwm PCB's
I got a quote to assemble with just the SMD but it was stupidly expensive so I'll just have to hope I can do it myself!
buddy.
Active Member
@wykat I am just ordering the components from a local supplier and I am having trouble finding a couple of them on the site. https://au.element14.com
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/610-BC184B
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/80-MMK5104J50J01TR18
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/652-4607X-1LF-8.2K .........I am not sure if this will work?
Is it also possible to just use pins instead of the audio jacks?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/610-BC184B
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/80-MMK5104J50J01TR18
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/652-4607X-1LF-8.2K .........I am not sure if this will work?
Is it also possible to just use pins instead of the audio jacks?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/610-BC184B
Alternative: https://au.element14.com/on-semiconductor/bc33725bu/transistor-bipol-npn-45v-to-92/dp/2453781 (universal npn transistor with same CBE footprint according datasheet)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/80-MMK5104J50J01TR18
Alternative: https://au.element14.com/vishay/bfc237011104/cap-0-1-f-63v-10-pet/dp/1215508 (should fit dimensional)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/652-4607X-1LF-8.2K .........I am not sure if this will work?
Alternative: https://au.element14.com/bourns/4607x-101-472lf/res-n-w-bussed-4-7k-2-100v-sip/dp/2787743 (is just a pull up resistor, value not critical between 4K7 and 10K).
Is it also possible to just use pins instead of the audio jacks?
Yes, no problem, just don't reverse them as I don't know what's happening then.
buddy.
Active Member
Thanks!!
These are the drivers that I have been using for the last 5 years or so for my LEDs. I have been using a controller with only 4 channels though so I can't wait to have so much more control
These are the drivers that I have been using for the last 5 years or so for my LEDs. I have been using a controller with only 4 channels though so I can't wait to have so much more control
Diamond1
Valuable Member
Great job on these boards @wykat.
Here's what mine looks like. Still need to solder the 2x20 header and the temp probe wires then I'll be testing this week.
I'm not a big fan of the push pin jumper wires or the 1/8" temp probe jacks so I direct wired the outputs from the ULN 2803s, dc motors and temp probe. They will all go to a set of terminal blocks so if I need to I can easily disconnect everything.
Here's what mine looks like. Still need to solder the 2x20 header and the temp probe wires then I'll be testing this week.
I'm not a big fan of the push pin jumper wires or the 1/8" temp probe jacks so I direct wired the outputs from the ULN 2803s, dc motors and temp probe. They will all go to a set of terminal blocks so if I need to I can easily disconnect everything.
Happy to see people using these boards and yes as stated before tricky point are the connectors. Learning a lot from https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/devoted-reefer-250.263426/page-13 (still many pages to go). Will see if I can draw the principle of a modular housing tomorrow. Quite comfortable at the moment. Objective is a Red Sea Reefer 250 with 10cm/4inch distance to the wall behind to fit the Reef-PI_housing including cooling/water protection/wiring.Great job on these boards @wykat.
Here's what mine looks like. Still need to solder the 2x20 header and the temp probe wires then I'll be testing this week.
I'm not a big fan of the push pin jumper wires or the 1/8" temp probe jacks so I direct wired the outputs from the ULN 2803s, dc motors and temp probe. They will all go to a set of terminal blocks so if I need to I can easily disconnect everything.
Last edited:
First sketch:
Just now 3D printing is running (chili's have to wait) to get a physical impression. Wanted to use Mini XLR connectors but that's not going to work (hex nut). Still looking to minimize overall size. Module should not only cool down the PWM module but also others. The PWM PCBA module would fit in the lower right corner, don't think connectors on the PWM module would be required, direct wires to female connectors.
Just now 3D printing is running (chili's have to wait) to get a physical impression. Wanted to use Mini XLR connectors but that's not going to work (hex nut). Still looking to minimize overall size. Module should not only cool down the PWM module but also others. The PWM PCBA module would fit in the lower right corner, don't think connectors on the PWM module would be required, direct wires to female connectors.
Started 3D design with sketchup, somehow can't get myself with FreeCAD but there are several alternatives. As printer I'm using an 'old' Malyan M150, almost wrote off this printer and build and almost finished a new dual head Tarantula, but since that was almost finished the Malyan is running fine 24/7
Don't touch a running system.What I've learned is:
- Don't change, if not required between material (PLA, ABS, PETG, ...). It will constipate the nozzle due to different temperatures required.
- Use a glass plate (or Ikea mirror) with hair spray for sticking the first layers (basically I only use PETG at 100 degrees going down to 80 degrees after multiple layers)
- I run at a lower print speed, so that material drops can be 'recovered' by the hot needle during next runs (potentially a PETG issue)
The glass/hair spray is holding so good that I've even broken glass particles out of the glass plate, let it cool down below 40 degrees! you can hear when the printed parts are 'breaking' from the glass plate, then they can be taken off easily.
Started 3D design with sketchup, somehow can't get myself with FreeCAD but there are several alternatives. As printer I'm using an 'old' Malyan M150, almost wrote off this printer and build and almost finished a new dual head Tarantula, but since that was almost finished the Malyan is running fine 24/7
What I've learned is:
- Don't change, if not required between material (PLA, ABS, PETG, ...). It will constipate the nozzle due to different temperatures required.
- Use a glass plate (or Ikea mirror) with hair spray for sticking the first layers (basically I only use PETG at 100 degrees going down to 80 degrees after multiple layers)
- I run at a lower print speed, so that material drops can be 'recovered' by the hot needle during next runs (potentially a PETG issue)
The glass/hair spray is holding so good that I've even broken glass particles out of the glass plate, let it cool down below 40 degrees! you can hear when the printed parts are 'breaking' from the glass plate, then they can be taken off easily.
My PETG ends up a lot more stringy than ABS, so I've found needing to up retraction amounts a bit to reduce that. I haven't found the need for adhesive on a glass plate at 80C.
This is on an old Qidi Tech I (FlashForge clone) using Simplify3D as the slicer.
