Hello fellow reefers!! I'm looking to refinish an old acrylic tank I have. I've already water tested it and I'm ready to sand away the fine scratches inside and out (1k-2k grit sandpaper). What I'm unsure about is the rubbing compound that I'll be using for buffing. Is there any danger with using regular automotive rubbing compound like a 3M or do they all pretty much have the same properties other than grittiness. For example, I know aquarium safe silicone is going to cost you a lot more at your LFS than it would at Home Depot. Can that be the case with an aquarium polish kit like NOVUS? What say you? Will a good, heavy rinse be enough for washing away any resin? Any pointers will certainly help. Thanks for the time!
Reef-safe acrylic buffing compound
- Thread starter josh85
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bayoupr
Active Member
I used Novus Three Step Kit, time consuming and slow going but it worked. Next time I'll take it to a LFS that does acrylic work and have them buff and polish it ( if I ever need to again).
Poriferan
Community Member
Years back I redid a 360 gallon tank. I used wet sandpaper, 800, followed by 1000 grit to remove the deeper scratches. Just use a block sander and be careful not to cut too deep in one area. Followed that up with Novus 3 then 2 on the end of a buffing wheel for a drill. Took a LOT of man hours but came out looking like a new tank.
Lenny_S
Well-Known Member
I would not use automotive rubbing compound for sure. I've never tried it, but a paste made from diatomaceous earth (aka DE) might make a really good acrylic buffing compound. If you or someone you know has a pool that uses a DE filter maybe you can get some and try it. It's just a wild idea I had, definitely do a test piece before you do your tank. Since it's ancient coral fossil, it should be safe.
I would recommend using an orbital pneumatic sander. The block sander will leave lines at the edges if your not careful. But like any sander there is always something that can go wrong so be careful. Always start the D/A after you having sitting on the surface never start it before it reaches your target (will cause half moons) keep it FLAT and keep it moving.
Thanks guys! .. I'll definitely be considering your advise. I have some experience from working at a body shop, but I know fresh paint could be a little different than acrylic. I will be doing the sanding portion by hand. Not looking forward to it but at least in use to wet sanding. I have access to an air compressor for the buffer. Lenny_S, I will look into that diatomaceous earth paste you mentioned. Cameronh, all awesome tips! I will definitely be making sure I keep an even, flat sand job. Thank you all for the tips!
