reef2reef you are my only hope.

You can go to Aqua illumination website and download some of their settings there are a few really good ones in there even some for Nanos
 
If you're nitrates and phosphates are at zero that might be your problem but also I have two AI primes over a 55 gallon tank that is 21 in deep and I'm still getting 130 par on the sand using the Zaxby's setting they are a lot more powerful than most people believe how deep is your tank?

16.5 inches deep... what is Zaxby's setting? I have just the one prime
 
sorry I meant saxby.. which is short for David Saxby who is a longtime Aquarius and influential person in the industry
 
16.5 inches deep... what is Zaxby's setting? I have just the one prime


While it could be the light, I tend to think it is a lack of stability. Like @crabs_mcjones said, 1.020 is very low for corals, you need to be closer to 1.026 and stable. How are you measuring that salinity? A calibrated refractometer is best.

You also mentioned that you feed twice a day with mysis shrimp. How much are you feeding? Are you feeding twice a day adding up to a half a cube of mysis for the day, or are you feeding twice a day totaling a whole cube of mysis?

Not trying to be picky, but the more details that you give, the better the help you will receive. Zoa's and mushrooms are hard to kill. If you are losing those, it won't be long until you see problems with the other corals. Listing those other parameters would be a big help.
 
Salinity swings. And crank that light up.

6-8 hours of peak. 4 on either side with an hour or so of low blue “cool” in there.

The light will grow coral just fine with all at 100.(better prob, it only gives 85 par at 24 in at that setting )
Start there at full and slowly bring some sliders down till the tank looks good.

Test the tds of top off water. It’s a $15 or less meter. Bad water will sink you.
I’d say an ato is more important than a skimmer too.
 
Salinity swings. And crank that light up.

6-8 hours of peak. 4 on either side with an hour or so of low blue “cool” in there.

The light will grow coral just fine with all at 100.(better prob, it only gives 85 par at 24 in at that setting )
Start there at full and slowly bring some sliders down till the tank looks good.

Test the tds of top off water. It’s a $15 or less meter. Bad water will sink you.
I’d say an ato is more important than a skimmer too.

you want all sliders at 100?
 
you want all sliders at 100?
Zoas generally like around 100 par.
If you look at the Ai site, the specs , at 24in at full blast that light is 84 par in the hot spot.

My reccomend is to set the light to full blast and change the colors slightly till you gets color you like.

At 50% in all channels you are problem giving the coral on the sides 30 par or less. Some do like it likenthise shrooms

Keep in mind , like sps , some zoas like high light , some like low.

Ie , a banana is a fruit but won’t grow in Canada next to the apple trees.

I have a couple zoa and paly in 500+ par and a couple in 200 that won’t grow.
 
Zoas generally like around 100 par.
If you look at the Ai site, the specs , at 24in at full blast that light is 84 par in the hot spot.

My reccomend is to set the light to full blast and change the colors slightly till you gets color you like.

At 50% in all channels you are problem giving the coral on the sides 30 par or less. Some do like it likenthise shrooms

Keep in mind , like sps , some zoas like high light , some like low.

Ie , a banana is a fruit but won’t grow in Canada next to the apple trees.

I have a couple zoa and paly in 500+ par and a couple in 200 that won’t grow.


I will turn everything to 100 in that case and run that with a rise in salt levels. thank you so much for you time and help~
 
I will turn everything to 100 in that case and run that with a rise in salt levels. thank you so much for you time and help~
Yup.youre welcome . Go slow on the adjustments.
The coral higher up could get a substantial jump in intensity.
 
Stability is absolutely key in keeping a successful reef tank. I would invest in a ATO sooner rather than later. Also, I would check to make sure your water for top off and mixing salt is RODI and stick with one brand of salt. You could use the acclimation mode on the prime HD to ease your corals into where you want the intensity and spectrum to be.
 
I definitely wouldn't crank them all the way up to a hundred especially in the green and red or the White
 
You don't event need to purchase an ATO if cost is an issue....there's a YouTube video of making your own with a relay, float switch, cheap power cord, and a pump. So that's available as well...given it won't be as robust, it will run you like $20 in parts as opposed to $150.
 
For the reading how about NO3 and PO4, I worry that 20% water change ưeekly could bring the NO3 and PO4 to low in some situation. Can you check No3 and PO4?
You could accidentally create a ULNS which make your softies unhappy
 
I have noticed that stable salinity and alkalinity really help with keeping my zoas happy. Also, have you checked the tank with a red light when the lights are off to see if the rock brought in any unwanted pests that may be snacking on your corals?
 

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