REEFER 500 - STICKS & STICKS

[Saltees]

Today marks the completion of 30 days Copper and 3 doses of PraziPRO. Water is hazy. I did 50% WC, start running carbon and Polyfilter, also turned on the skimmer and UV. All fishes are well except for 2 Anthias with ragged fins and cotton like growth on the fin edge. Will keep in view of the condition.

 

[Saltees]

FWIW, all future fishes from LFS will be subjected to the following Hybrid Tank Transfer Method adapted from Humble.fish...

DAY	X’FER
Before START	Bath in H2O2 5ml/1L for 30mins
01 - Bucket 1	START
02	24hr
03	48hr (PRAZIPRO 1.25ml)
04 - Bucket 2	72hr (X’FER)
05	24hr
06	48hr
07 - Bucket 3	72hr (Bath in H2O2 5ml/1L for 30mins b4 X’FER)
08	24hr
09	48hr (PRAZIPRO 1.25ml)
10 - Bucket 4	72hr (X’FER)
11	24hr
12	48hr
13	END (X'FER)
After END	Bath in H2O2 5ml/1L for 30mins

OR Tank Transfer Method with Copper from BRS 80/20.

 

[Saltees]

Insofar coming out of QT results are promising. Currently, tank is still fish only with PVC, awaiting a commissioned rock scape to be completed, reverting back to my STICKS & STICKS scape/theme.

For the time being, I am managing nutrients down with dosing LaCl and NOPOX to the SPS keeping PO4 0.03 and NO3 5ppm. Trimming the fish count if necessary.

 

[Saltees]

An oddity to my fish list.

ANTHIA
1 Borbonius Anthia (Odontanthias borbonius)
1M1F Anthia (Pseudanthias sp anthias)
1M1F Bismaculatus Anthia (Pseudanthias bimaculatus)
1M1F Evansi Anthia (Pseudanthias evansi)
1M2F Dispar Anthia (Pseudanthias dispar)
1F Hutomo’s Anthia (Pseudanthias hutomoi)
1F Lyretail Anthia (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)

EEL
2 Banana Moray (Gymnothorax milaris)

DAMSEL
4 CB.Mccullochi Clownfish (Amphiprion mccullochi)
1 Springer’s Damsel (Chrysiptera springeri)

TANG
1 Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon)
1 Orange Shoulder Tang (Acanthurus olivaceus)
1 Whitetail Bristletooth Tang (Ctenochaetus flavicauda)
1 Desjardin Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma desjardini)
1 Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
1 Gem Tang (Zebrasoma gemmatum)
1 Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum)

WRASSE
1 CB.Harlequin Tusk (Choerodon fasciatus)
1 China Tamarin Wrasse (Anampses neoguinaicus)
1 Aqua Marine Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus aquamarinus)
1 Naoko’s Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus naokoae)
1 Yellow Coris Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus)
1 Melanurus Wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus)

OTHER
3 Diamond Watchman Goby (Valenciennea puellaris)
1 Copperband Butterfly (Chelmon rostratus)
1 Red Dartfish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
1 Purple Tilefish (Hoplolatilus purpureus)
1 Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus)
1 Bristletail Filefish (Acreichthys tomentosus)
1 Royal Gamma (Gramma loreto)

CB = Captive Bred

 

[Saltees]

Below is my QT schedule for the record.

SALTEES - 40L HTTM 05/16-28

ACTION	DAY/MM/DD/TIME
Bath in H2O2 5ml/1L for 30mins before X’FER to T1	TUE/05/16/1200
START (X’FER to T1)	TUE/05/16/1230
24hr	WED
48hr (PRAZIPRO @ 2.5ml/40L)	THU/05/18/1230
72hr (X’FER to T2)	FRI/05/19/1230
24hr	SAT
48hr	SUN
72hr (Bath in H2O2 5ml/1L for 30mins before X’FER to T3)	MON/05/22/1200
X’FER to T3	MON/05/22/1230
24hr	TUE
48hr (PRAZIPRO 2.5ml/40L)	WED/05/24/1230
72hr (X’FER to T4 w COPPER POWER @ 15ml/40L)	THU/05/25/1230
24hr	FRI
48hr	SAT
72hr - END	SUN/05/28/1230
Bath in H2O2 5ml/1L for 30mins before X’FER to DISPLAY	SUN/05/28/1300

RULES:
(1) Transfers need to occur every 72 hours OR less, NOT more;
(2) The total number of days to pass should be 12 OR more, NOT less;
(3) A minimum of 4 transfers are required if doing transfer every 72 hours.

 

[Saltees]

Commissioned an Aqua scape from Instagram: wl_marine (Korea) early DEC 2022…

Took delivery in late AUG 2023, unfortunately with several breakages. The seller provided a repair kit containing sand and glue. Didn't get down to repairing it till now. Will be introducing to the display this month. On hindsight, should have gotten 2 small structures instead of a large one.

Currently, the display tank remains Fish Only with PVC since my last post. All the fishes remain disease free without UV.

 

[Saltees]

I’m set up a holding tank for all my display fishes while I slowly introduce SPS. I will be keeping the SPS display fallow for 3 months from the last SPS before bringing the fishes back in.

 

[Saltees]

This week…managed to relocated all the fishes, washed the display and the sump.

Putting up the Tonga scape for a good soak in RODI till the sand arrive in early MAR.

 

[Saltees]

Fishes are coping very well in the holding tank without chiller @ 28C (82.5F) with just fans only. Salinity at 30ppt.

Gotta dose ALK to avoid bottoming from nitrification, NO3 tested @ 60ppm and PH 7.

 

[Saltees]

Ocean direct original grade sand arrived earlier than expected.

FWIW, I added 1,000ml (3%H2O2) to 200L RODI which is about (150ppm) for the soaking of the scape. About 48 hours later, when I drain the water today prior adding the sand and salt water, the water smelled bad. A testing with H2O2 strip confirmed none of H2O2 was left. Went ahead to flush the scape with another round of RODI before the starting tank cycling.

 

[Tacticool-Reefer]

FWIW, I added 1,000ml (3%H2O2) to 200L RODI which is about (150ppm) for the soaking of the scape. About 48 hours later, when I drain the water today prior adding the sand and salt water, the water smelled bad. A testing with H2O2 strip confirmed none of H2O2 was left. Went ahead to flush the scape with another round of RODI before the starting tank cycling.

What was the reason/theory behind using H2O2 on/in the tank and rockwork? What are you hoping to achieve? I fully understand that you drained and flushed it afterward with RO/DI water, I’m just trying to understand why you went this route.

 

[Saltees]

What was the reason/theory behind using H2O2 on/in the tank and rockwork? What are you hoping to achieve? I fully understand that you drained and flushed it afterward with RO/DI water, I’m just trying to understand why you went this route.

Typically I will have a bucket or two of RODI with H2O2 (~150ppm) lying around for me to soak my nets, pipes, air stones, mostly QT stuffs, prior drying in the sun. And I realize the potency of the H2O2 takes 3-4 weeks to dissipate. This step is to rid the equipments of any smell.

Back to your question, so while the hungry RODI water will leach the organics from the Tonga scape, I was expecting the H2O2 to provide the sustaining oxidative effect keep the water from turning bad till my sand arrive.

I hope it explains. And here’s my scape today in salt water with Caribsea Ocean Direct sand (Original grade).

 

[Tacticool-Reefer]

About 48 hours later, when I drain the water today prior adding the sand and salt water, the water smelled bad.

Taken from here:

US EPA-Pesticides; Hydrogen peroxide​

Under aerobic aquatic metabolism conditions, hydrogen peroxide degrades with half-lives of 1.1-5.3 hours in non-sterile conditions, and ca. 80 hours in sterile conditions.

I'm no expert, but I've always been told and understood that it breaks down very quickly (take from google): Hydrogen peroxide is relatively unstable and decomposes quickly. In a sealed container, hydrogen peroxide lasts approximately 3 years. However, as soon as you open the container, it starts to break down. You might be surprised to learn that it's only effective for 1 to 6 months once the container is opened

That could be why a 48-hour soak smelled as bad as you mentioned, at that point whatever organics had been "oxidized" would have been the contributing factor to decomposition causing your noticeable odor.

BTW: Nice work on the rock-scape, it looks great!

 

[Saltees]

Taken from here:

US EPA-Pesticides; Hydrogen peroxide​

Under aerobic aquatic metabolism conditions, hydrogen peroxide degrades with half-lives of 1.1-5.3 hours in non-sterile conditions, and ca. 80 hours in sterile conditions.

I'm no expert, but I've always been told and understood that it breaks down very quickly (take from google): Hydrogen peroxide is relatively unstable and decomposes quickly. In a sealed container, hydrogen peroxide lasts approximately 3 years. However, as soon as you open the container, it starts to break down. You might be surprised to learn that it's only effective for 1 to 6 months once the container is opened

That could be why a 48-hour soak smelled as bad as you mentioned, at that point whatever organics had been "oxidized" would have been the contributing factor to decomposition causing your noticeable odor.

BTW: Nice work on the rock-scape, it looks great!

Yes. That’s what I read too. It’s strange that when I ran test strips on my “equipment soaking” buckets, it’s still registering in week 3-4. Perhaps it’s the lack of organics thereof in my equipments. I can’t really explain the residual H2O2, except I do occasionally drop an ultrasonic cleaner into the same bucket for that extra clean.

FWIW, I would have replaced the RODI and dump in another liter of H2O2, should my sand delay to arrive.

Thanks! Credit of the rocks-cape to wl_marine (instagram).

 

[Saltees]

Well… that’s my starting NO3, PO4. Pretty sure the PO4 would be higher if not for the soak in RODI. I would expect the NO3 to rise over the next few days, after dosing 45ml of Dr Tim’s Ammonium Chloride.

 

[Saltees]

Couple of things, I will be adopting this time round.

1. Abandoning the REEFMAT 1200, returning to Algae Turf Scrubber and Refugium.

2. Decided to go with 2 x NERO7 instead, since both my WAVs decided to fail together under 2 years of use.

3. “AI Blade ready”… should my 4 RADION PRO G5 prove to be inadequate for SPS.

 

[Tacticool-Reefer]

Coming along nicely.
Now the real fun begins.

 

[Saltees]

Well… judging from the increased NO3 and the brown algae on my ATS and Refugium, I would think the tank is cycled! Time for some Trochus snails!

 

[Saltees]

Enter the first 3 inhabitants… after the trochus snails proved safe to.

 

[nuxx Verified Sponsor]

How's the CBB doing with the tangs? My CBB exceled in QT, then when introduced to the display which had tons of tangs, two full size angels and a pair of triggers... just wilted away and died