Reefer 525 XL V3 Sump Advice

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Hi all,

I am going to be setting up a reefer 525XL mixed reef and fish tank and was hoping to get some advice on the best way to set up a refugium in the V3 sump. Would you recommend using a UV steriliser unit in the set up? I will be using the Vectra M2 for the return pump and a Nyos Quantum protein skimmer and I assume footprint of the skimmer will determine which position the refugium baffle will have to go in?

Just not sure on what to do regarding the refugium, so any advice would be welcome.
 
Welcome to R2R! Glad you found us. :-)

There are a few options for adding a fuge to the 525XL sump that I've seen (and tried);
1) Convert the ATO to a fuge (using an external ATO tank in the right cabinet or outside the stand somewhere). This is nice because it keeps the fuge in the stand and uses existing glass. I tried drilling mine for an overflow and cracked it (rookie mistake of trying to drill too fast), but I ended up building an acrylic box of roughly the same dimensions. It worked rather well, but does require pumping water up into the tank and working out that overflow (including an emergency backup since macro algae is a pro at clogging drains you think are protected).
2) Add a baffle (new wall) into the skimmer area just after the filter socks (if you are running them; when I ran my fuge there I removed the socks more often than not). There are kits for this you can find, or else you can just silicone in something yourself (either glass or acrylic sheets). Since this isn't a water-tight area, the seal doesn't need to be perfect, so the pressure is off. This is a great option as it doesn't require any special plumbing or pumping, but does reduce the available space in the main sump chamber.
3) If you remove the ATO tank to somewhere else, you can actually use the first return chamber as a decent fuge. You'll get lots of direct flow and it's the first chamber, so the macros will have first pick of the nutrients. The socks are downstream as well, so all the little bits and such get caught. This does reduce (practically eliminates) any pod population getting back into the tank from the fuge (generally seen as a benefit of the fuge), so it still may be a good idea to run without the socks (or leave out the one closest to the door to capture some of the detritus, but not all of it.
4) An external fuge is always an option for any tank. There's enough of an opening in the stand to run plumbing in and out; just make sure the fuge water line is higher than the sump edge and you shouldn't have any drainage problems. Of course, this likely places the fuge outside the stand, which can be less desirable for some. Still; a nice mangrove tank or the like can be attractive...

Using a UV is a matter or preference - it's not a required piece of equipment by any means. If you do go with a UV, be sure that it's properly sized for your goals and that you can tune the flow to it (which will be much slower than your return line will generally run).

I found the M2 to be underpowered for the 525XL, honestly. It ran at basically 100%, which produced a lot of heat and resulted in a noticeable drop-off when it started to gum up - which resulted in the tank getting loud as the return flow got lower than the plumbing was set to handle. When I upgraded to an L2 I was able to run it at a lower speed, which produced less heat. And if the tank was making a lot of noise due to a flow drop (and I didn't have time to clean it at that moment), I could kick up the pump a bit to compensate. It didn't always work perfectly, but it did help some. I also had enough extra juice to add a manifold and few extra bits (carbon/gfo chamber, chiller, etc.).

Again; welcome to R2R - please keep asking those questions!
 
Welcome to R2R! Glad you found us. :)

There are a few options for adding a fuge to the 525XL sump that I've seen (and tried);
1) Convert the ATO to a fuge (using an external ATO tank in the right cabinet or outside the stand somewhere). This is nice because it keeps the fuge in the stand and uses existing glass. I tried drilling mine for an overflow and cracked it (rookie mistake of trying to drill too fast), but I ended up building an acrylic box of roughly the same dimensions. It worked rather well, but does require pumping water up into the tank and working out that overflow (including an emergency backup since macro algae is a pro at clogging drains you think are protected).
2) Add a baffle (new wall) into the skimmer area just after the filter socks (if you are running them; when I ran my fuge there I removed the socks more often than not). There are kits for this you can find, or else you can just silicone in something yourself (either glass or acrylic sheets). Since this isn't a water-tight area, the seal doesn't need to be perfect, so the pressure is off. This is a great option as it doesn't require any special plumbing or pumping, but does reduce the available space in the main sump chamber.
3) If you remove the ATO tank to somewhere else, you can actually use the first return chamber as a decent fuge. You'll get lots of direct flow and it's the first chamber, so the macros will have first pick of the nutrients. The socks are downstream as well, so all the little bits and such get caught. This does reduce (practically eliminates) any pod population getting back into the tank from the fuge (generally seen as a benefit of the fuge), so it still may be a good idea to run without the socks (or leave out the one closest to the door to capture some of the detritus, but not all of it.
4) An external fuge is always an option for any tank. There's enough of an opening in the stand to run plumbing in and out; just make sure the fuge water line is higher than the sump edge and you shouldn't have any drainage problems. Of course, this likely places the fuge outside the stand, which can be less desirable for some. Still; a nice mangrove tank or the like can be attractive...

Using a UV is a matter or preference - it's not a required piece of equipment by any means. If you do go with a UV, be sure that it's properly sized for your goals and that you can tune the flow to it (which will be much slower than your return line will generally run).

I found the M2 to be underpowered for the 525XL, honestly. It ran at basically 100%, which produced a lot of heat and resulted in a noticeable drop-off when it started to gum up - which resulted in the tank getting loud as the return flow got lower than the plumbing was set to handle. When I upgraded to an L2 I was able to run it at a lower speed, which produced less heat. And if the tank was making a lot of noise due to a flow drop (and I didn't have time to clean it at that moment), I could kick up the pump a bit to compensate. It didn't always work perfectly, but it did help some. I also had enough extra juice to add a manifold and few extra bits (carbon/gfo chamber, chiller, etc.).

Again; welcome to R2R - please keep asking those questions!

Hi Dave and thanks for your reply.

The Reefer 525 XL V3 sump is refugium ready and comes with a removable baffle that can be placed in two different positions. I would think that because of the size of the footprint of the skimmer I will need to use the front position and will therefore have a space left in front of the baffle for the refugium. I was not clear enough in my original post but what I really want to know is what should I put in the refugium and what is the best way to nurture it, lighting and feed etc?

Regarding the Vectra M2 pump. I'm a little perplexed as to why you think it is not sufficient? I have a friend who has run a 525XL with the M1 pump for a number of years with no problems whatsoever. The M2 is the latest version of the same pump with some minor improvements to the design but the same specification (as far as flow rates and head pressure is concerned). The flow rate of the pump is 7500 l/hour, which is almost twice the Red Sea recommended flow rate for the 525 system.
 
Yeah; okay - I’m a bit of a moron. I missed the very obvious “V3” in your title. And your post. :-/ So... yeah.
Chaeto is the thing in most peoples fuge’s. It grows fast and is capable of out-competing most nuisance algae given enough light. Nutrients are fish poop and excess food. The usual point of the fuge is to absorb excess nutrients, so if you’re having to feed your fuge, you either don’t need it, or have a special case (early tank, low bio-load, etc.). I’ve found it difficult to keep chaeto growing in a fuge for the first year or so, but that may just be me... Lighting is a grow-light of some type. There are lights specifically for fuge use, and some people use general plant grow lights. Budget and desire often play into that choice more than anything else, I’ve found...

Perhaps it was because I had a manifold running off the return - that took up a lot of my flow, I guess. There were times I turned everything off and just cycled tank water and the M2 pump did okay, I guess. If you’re planning on having a manifold (to run water into a reactor or UV or the like), then you’ll likely need more flow potential.
 

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