Reefi lenses and lamp beads are made of silicone glass and can only withstand high temperatures of 100 degrees Celsius,
I'm not sure what silicone glass is, but:
- LEDs are encapsulated in silicone, and often have silicone formed lenses. Pretty sure your emitters do too.
- Peak operating temperatures of the LED junction should be <100C anyway. Absolute maximum Tj is usually around 110-120C. This is at the die, and moves out through the thermal pad or other metal conductors, - the lens material in front of the LED should never be reaching these temperatures unless cooling is insufficient.
stress on a single LED diode, which results in lower LED diode utilization.
Also improves efficiency to not run near maximum LED output, as well as longevity. More is... often better (though it costs more)
Noopsyche is made of high borosilicate and quartz glass materials and can withstand temperatures above 500 degrees
If anything in the fixture is anywhere near 500C you... are actually on fire.
This is why the Par output of Nooppsyche K7 Mini (60w) reaches 1700, while the Par output of some brands of products with the same power is only 700
While glass is a lower loss material, its not going be 2.3x different. This is simply a peak number at one measurement point, and a more focused lens will make that number higher.
More useful would be total radiated energy over a defined area, but no one measures that.
Aluminum substrates can only withstand 200 degrees Celsius. But Noopsyche uses a copper substrate that can withstand temperatures of up to 400 degrees Celsius. Few brands in the industry use copper substrates, and most brands use aluminum substrates.
Yes, because aluminum is cheaper if you're not clustering tons of over-driven LEDs in one small area. The withstand temperature is also meaningless (if the board is at 200C, then the LEDs are above 200C, which with an absolute maximum of 120C means they're broken), thermal conductivity matters, and it only matters that its sufficient for the power density on the board. A spread array would be better off using aluminum.
It has no red spectrum and cannot grow red corals or rarer Australian hard coral species.
I never include any red LEDs in fixtures. At most, a white or PC Amber or Mint. Reds are a waste of space.
Scleractinia is... all hard corals. I realize Australia is a funny place with kangaroos and where everything is upside down, but I'm pretty sure the corals from the region are similar in the sunlight they receive.
I think its worth noting competitors exist and highlight why your product is better, but most of these reasons are nonsensical technobabble.
While I haven't had a ReeFi, I've bought a Noopsyche to experiment with. The real difference is a spread LED array vs a Kessil-Lite focused single lens model. Pros and cons to each, spread vs shimmer.
Also, please stop including Red and Green LEDs if you use whites - you're doubling up useless spectrum. Try something like a Cyan to fill a gap in white or a PC Amber/Mint/Mango (using Lumileds naming) for color correction.
