Reefkeeper display
- Thread starter primo21
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Looks like a serial protocol display board based on the number of pins, probably SPI bus. The capacitors are (C8-C15) are bypass and to run the onboard bias charge pump on the display.
Pinouts vary widely on display modules - while everyone uses the same Chinese display controller (the shiny blob just above the display in your first picture), the connector pinout and even display wiring (and how the display is configured by software) might make this a futile endeavor sadly
Pinouts vary widely on display modules - while everyone uses the same Chinese display controller (the shiny blob just above the display in your first picture), the connector pinout and even display wiring (and how the display is configured by software) might make this a futile endeavor sadly
Large tip and flood all the pins with solder, which will allow you to remove the cable in one lift if you can maintain temperature. Google for some desoldering videos - this is like removing one side of a large DIP package.
primo21
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Can't even get the pins hot enough. 30w iron can't get them hot enough to melt the new solder. I guess you were right in it being futile before I even get to finding a new display.
redfishbluefish
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My electronics guy said he can't comment without seeing in person. However, he did say that if the display is like an I-phone, maybe the display is glued in place and needs to use a heat gun to get it out. But again, can't say without seeing in person.
ReeferBob
Valuable Member
The iPhone has the digitizer glued to the LCD panel. It is hard as hell in an iPhone to do this replacement properly which is why most iPhone repair kits come with the entire assembly. For the OPs RKE, the LCD is cracked, so this would not be the case regardless.
My suggestion is toss it. Trade yours in for a new RKE. You will never get that one working properly.
ReeferBob
Valuable Member
So he thinks the pins are glued and not soldered? So who has a heat gun I can use?
lol - this is not what he said. I think this repair might be beyond your capabilities.
primo21
Active Member
so much negativity Bob. the only limit to my capabilities are when I stop trying. if you have any options I haven't tried, beside tossing it that you said a couple times, I would love to hear it.
ReeferBob
Valuable Member
Sorry don't mean to be too harsh but I don't sugar coat things. Do it for fun sure but I would not have any great expectations that it will ever work. $150 in this hobby is cheap. What do you value your own time?
Company101
Active Member
I am in the same boat. I have a screen that is cracked as well. My decision was to get a hub and a net module. And just control everything from my iPad. Haven't set it up yet as I can't find a used net module. So I am hoping it works
Company101
Active Member
From I talked to the guys at digital aquatics. You can have both displays attached to the same system. And you can read those from the RKL display.
I just wish they would put the display back to the way it was. You could pick what you wanted to see. With the quick views. Instead of everything being scrolled thru.
I just wish they would put the display back to the way it was. You could pick what you wanted to see. With the quick views. Instead of everything being scrolled thru.
domination2580
Reef-a-nator
I believe you can only use 2 pc4 on the lite version. I'm not site on the pc2
domination2580
Reef-a-nator
Those black circles look like little stickers. Peel those back, there might be screws. They do it all the tone with phones
DaveMorris
MACNA2016 Co-Chair
Not sure who you talked to or if there was a misunderstanding, but you can not use an RKL display and a RKE display on the same system.
The remote display is an RD-1 and it looks just like an RKL, but it isn't the same. They work great.
The RKL supports up to 4 modules. You can use any 4 you want and as many like modules as you want, up to a total of 4. The NET module, iTemp probe, and the HUB do not count as a module.
There is nothing special about the display unit on the RKE. If you can get it off, find an actual replacement display, and get it soldered back on, all without destroying it in the process, then you will have success. One way you can remove it is by getting a very small pair of wire cutters and snipping off the pins one at a time. Once the display is disconnected, remove the pins with a small needle nose and a soldering iron one at a time. Clean up the solder and then go find a replacement display. Good luck
