Reefkeeper elite update problems

Just got it done. Tried a different sid plugged into a different port on my laptop and i updated my reef to build 80. My rke now is updated successfully! !!
 
Thank you. Now im ready to start hooking things up. I have 3 pc4s. Mlc. Sl1. Sl2. 3 float switches. Temp and ph probes and the head unit to hook up.

Im assuming it doesnt matter what order to hook all of them up
 
Thank you. Now im ready to start hooking things up. I have 3 pc4s. Mlc. Sl1. Sl2. 3 float switches. Temp and ph probes and the head unit to hook up.

Im assuming it doesnt matter what order to hook all of them up
The order doesn't matter as far as programming is concerned. It may make a difference as far as buss power is concerned. With those modules make sure the head unit is connected at a PC4 and the SL2v2 is connected at a PC4. Otherwise just make sure the power is evenly distributed. you may want to wait a few days before calibrating the pH probe. After is is setup in your tank a few days it should stabilize. Now the firmware has been updated on the head unit make sure you do a reset to factory defaults on the head unit before you program anything. This sets up all settings in the memory to their defaults. The memory locations for this differ from one firmware version to another.
 
If you are using a laptop make sure it is plugged in or update @desktop as I had to bc it did not like the Lenova.
Had a similar problem..called tech support they quickly nailed it and works like a charm
 
Another issue you may need to know is that low current inductive loads such as the Aqualifter and small power heads create back EMF pulses when they loose power. This can cause several things to happen form outputs staying on, lights blinking that are powered by a PC4 and controller resetting. This can useually be solved by adding a surge protector between the PC4 output and the pump. The new PB4 or PB8 have the circuitry built into the outlet to minimize this issue.
 
Ok I read in the manual I downloaded that that applies to plugs 2 and 3. And 1 and 4 are ok for pumps... is that correct?
 
It will turn off on CH1 and CH4 but they can still cause other issues when turned off. I would not use them on any output with out using either illuminated power strip liberators or a surge protector. Aqualifter and Koralia's are example of know pumps that will cause issues on any output.
 
#1 is for a heater and #4 is for MH
A pump can run on any outlet in the PC4
This is not exactly true. Some pumps are ok on any output. You would not want to put an Aqualifter on CH2 or CH3 unless you want it to run until you unplug it once it is turned on.
 
Heres a list of what ill have hooked up:
2 led fixtures
Return pump
Seaclone skimmer
Lights for algea scrubber
Heater
Kalk stirrer
Aqualifter for ato
Dual jebaos with jbwave
 
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Can you post the wattage on the skimmer pump, return pump and the Kalk stirrer. The Aqualifter use a surge protector or an illuminated power strip liberator with it. Are you turning the jebaos off and on with the controller? Those I am not sure about.

These are symptoms of the back EMF issue depending on the output they are connected.
1. Won't turn even though the controller says the output is off.
2. Causes flashing of lighting when pump output powers off.
3. Controller intermittently resets.
4. Lots of buss errors in a 24 hour period.
 
The seaclone is a maxijet mj1200 not sure wattage

Kalk stirrer is a electric motor and not a pump. The ac adapter for it says the input is 15watts

And dont have the return handy to get info on it
 
The 1200 may be an issue. To find out try them on CH2 or CH3. Program them to turn on and off using a multi-timer. While you are there make sure that the pump does turn on and off without any ill effects. If it passes this test most likely you are ok on any output. The return pump is most likely OK. They are useually over 40 watts. Besides you don't normally turn that pump off very often. The key is testing then to make sure there is no issue while you are around to stop the pump if needed.
 

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