Reeflix's boring build.

I don’t know about that particular kind but here are some things you can try.
-Full black out again for 3 days then blue only for at least 2.
-You can trying running a UV especially during the blackout. When the Dino’s are in the water column. There are ones that are realitivrly
Inexpensive that you can pop in your tank and not have to plumb in.
-I’ve been dosing bactiv 8 every morning before lights cut on. But anything similar “could” help.
-Get your hands on some very mature rock from another reefer and add it to your system.

If you want more specific info about that kind, try making a post about it. There are tons of people on R2R that geek out over Dino’s and may have more information. Fish stixs seems to know his stuff, so if you don’t want to do all that, do what he says and hopefully it will help. Beating Dino’s can be a short or long battle. I’ve talked to people on both sides.

Most importantly keep your nutrients up throughout.
 
I don’t know about that particular kind but here are some things you can try.
-Full black out again for 3 days then blue only for at least 2.
-You can trying running a UV especially during the blackout. When the Dino’s are in the water column. There are ones that are realitivrly
Inexpensive that you can pop in your tank and not have to plumb in.
-I’ve been dosing bactiv 8 every morning before lights cut on. But anything similar “could” help.
-Get your hands on some very mature rock from another reefer and add it to your system.

If you want more specific info about that kind, try making a post about it. There are tons of people on R2R that geek out over Dino’s and may have more information. Fish stixs seems to know his stuff, so if you don’t want to do all that, do what he says and hopefully it will help. Beating Dino’s can be a short or long battle. I’ve talked to people on both sides.

Most importantly keep your nutrients up throughout.
i have the in tank uv sterilizer, i um, wake up way too late to dose before the lights come on, but i have the ol microbacter 7
 
also i was going to post a thread on asking how to beat the dinos @Fish Styx IDed
1st, check you source water, RODI, AND fresh SW for silicates. Dinos don't necessarily consume them like diatoms do, but their "shells" are composed of silica and they need it to reproduce. ID the source and eliminate it.

2nd, check your nutrient levels and make sure they are within acceptable parameters. Note that, if you have nuisance algae, your readings will be artificially low.

3rd, perform a 50% WC, and while doing so, remove as much of the Dinos as possible via scrub and vacuum.

4th, make sure you are running carbon to manage die off toxin

5th, raise tank temperature to 81 degrees F.

6th, do a 72 hour blackout on your tank, followed by a week of just blues at 1/2 intensity.

7th, lower temp back to normal for your system (I run mine around 77).

8th, seriously consider adding a UV sterilizer.

Lather, rinse, repeat. Unfortunately, there is no quick fix for removing them. Just persistent good husbandy over time will do the trick. There is a really good thread on here somewhere, if memory serves, that covers all the bases.
 
Last edited:
1st, check you source water, RODI, AND fresh SW for silicates. Dinos don't necessarily consume them like diatoms do, but their "shells" are composed of silica and they need it to reproduce. ID the source and eliminate it.

2nd, check your nutrient levels and make sure they are within acceptable parameters. Note that, if you have nuisance algae, your readings will be artificially low.

3rd, perform a 50% WC, and while doing so, remove as much of the Dinos as possible via scrub and vacuum.

4th, make sure you are running carbon to manage die off toxin

5th, raise tank temperature to 81 degrees F.

6th, do a 72 hour blackout on your tank, followed by a week of just blues at 1/2 intensity.

7th, lower temp back to normal for your system (I run mine around 77).

8th, seriously consider adding a UV sterilizer.

Lather, rinse, repeat. Unfortunately, there is no quick fix for removing them. Just persistent good husbandy over time will do the trick. There is a really good thread on here somewhere, if memory serves, that covers all the bases.
Yup, I added a UV, I would think that a week of blues would be too little (I will follow your advice and do it though) and my tank water has been at 84 for about the past 3 weeks
 
Yup, I added a UV, I would think that a week of blues would be too little (I will follow your advice and do it though) and my tank water has been at 84 for about the past 3 weeks
You can definitely go without whites for much longer. In fact, you are right: the longer the better. My concern was for your coral and par values.

Have you noticed any improvement? 84 is high, and should definitely have an effect. How is everything else in your tank doing?
 
You can definitely go without whites for much longer. In fact, you are right: the longer the better. My concern was for your coral and par values.

Have you noticed any improvement? 84 is high, and should definitely have an effect. How is everything else in your tank doing?
You can definitely go without whites for much longer. In fact, you are right: the longer the better. My concern was for your coral and par values.

Have you noticed any improvement? 84 is high, and should definitely have an effect. How is everything else in your tank doing?
Honestly most of the coral are fine, sept for my chalice, a hammer and my goni
 
Ok, thought y’all deserve an update, the Dinos appear to be non toxin, as the coral all doing fine (maybe there is some flesh recession on a hammer that I have, but it has some of the best polyp extension I have seen from it, so, and yes I know that they keep their polyps out on their deathbed) but anyways the Dinos are getting SMOTHERED my some nasty looking cyano!!! Yay more problems! Also some mystery algae I scraped offf the side of the tank, I want to barf it was so nasty, which means you all need to see it too!
IMG_1109.jpeg

And when it was out of water… yuck
 
Update time! #moreproblems now I have some really bad looking cyano covering the back wall of the tank, and the sand. It is green, now, normally I know what to do, but, they Dinos are still around! I can do manual removal, but what else can I do that won’t make the Dinos worse? I can get parameters pretty soon if you want em
 
Update time! #moreproblems now I have some really bad looking cyano covering the back wall of the tank, and the sand. It is green, now, normally I know what to do, but, they Dinos are still around! I can do manual removal, but what else can I do that won’t make the Dinos worse? I can get parameters pretty soon if you want em
Send parameters and a pic.
 
Ok, so i know how you have said that your parameters are skewed when you have pest algae, will cyano do that? i think there is a problem with my levels...
 
yet about 2 weeks ago (with no dosing too!) it was .2 phos and 15 nitrate
 
phos came out 0, and nitrate .6
Low nutrients can feed both outbreaks. Low NO3 = Cyano and low PO4 = Dinos. Your test kits are showing low nutrients because something is using them and / or binding them (i.e GHA, turf, coral, a refugium, etc). Continue with manual removal and possibly consider dosing nutrients? Let's let others weigh in here, too.
 
Last edited:
i just dosing one capful of phos, then 2 of nitrate, which should raise it 1ppm nitrate and (i think) .1ppm phos. i just forgot how much the phos raises it, i knew last night though!
 
Thought I throw some pics on here for you!
IMG_1134.jpeg

Damsel pic!
IMG_1133.jpeg

Bought it with 4 heads, now it has 10!! There are quite a few in the back
IMG_1132.jpeg
IMG_1131.jpeg

@7of9 here are my cloves, looked like tree branches a week ago, still no quite healed, but really close.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top