ReefRookie's 75 build!

[Reefrookie220]

I'd like to start this build by saying, I've spent the better part of 2 years getting a 125g tank set-up together only to move and the landlord say "no way!"and after a few months of trading down(size wize) I'm at the point of finally starting a build!

The tank is an oceanic 75g reef ready. The overflow is in the corner and the back panel is smoked glass from the factory. The stand is factory also and will be used. I picked up the tank locally for the 125g.

Pic before teardown.

Tanks in great shape, only complaint is the glass brace in the top, I'll have to figure how to eliminate as much shadow as possible.

Equipment-
2x jebao rw8
Day 6000 for return
2x mars aqua leds
Bubble magus curve 5 skimmer
Diy sump

Plan on getting wet this week!

 

[Reefrookie220]

Starting the process-
Thanks to the extremely informative discussion on a local forum in a thread created by @BlueDevil , I've decided to go forward with a muratic acid ,and LC bath.


Started this 20 minutes ago!

Any comments, questions, or advice is much welcome and appreciated!

 

[BlueDevil]

Looking forward to the build Waylon! Just a curious question - we're the rocks 'live' and in your own setup? Or did you have issues with PO4 or algae due to the rocks? If there was underlying issue you were trying to resolve I'm sure treating and curing the rocks will serve you well. 9 months in I am still extremely happy that I went with the treatment with mine. Never had any algae or PO4 leaching issues. Good luck with the build!

 

[Reefrookie220]

Thanks Yash! I'm excited as well!

To answer your question, the rock was dry but there were a few green pieces from the sump of my previous system (seems like ages ago, back when @Reeflogic was around) I had small issues with GHA.

I just finished the bath, and or them into ro water after a rinse, and added LC.

Time to work on the small things, plumbing, sump etc

 

[BlueDevil]

Thanks Yash! I'm excited as well!

To answer your question, the rock was dry but there were a few green pieces from the sump of my previous system (seems like ages ago, back when @Reeflogic was around) I had small issues with GHA.

I just finished the bath, and or them into ro water after a rinse, and added LC.

Time to work on the small things, plumbing, sump etc

In that case good call on the acid/LC bath! I'm sure there will be lots to keep you busy while you wait on the rock to cure [emoji4]

 

[Reefrookie220]

Thanks to the plethora of info here in the site, I've decided to use several techniques I've followed on here for some time, like your rock cure thread!

Next up will be @brandon429 's sand rinse/maintainence. More on that when I decide on sand color!;Bored

 

[AdamPhe]

Awesome! I'm about to start my new 65 gallon soon!

 

[Reefrookie220]

@AdamPhe be sure to post a link here so I can follow!

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

More pics!

 

[AdamPhe]

@AdamPhe be sure to post a link here so I can follow!

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/adamaphe-65-gallon-build.297797/ @Reefrookie220

 

[Reefrookie220]

Picked up 60lbs of indo-Pacific black live sand.

Not sure on the color, I've had the solid black before wasn't a huge fan. I've also had three typical Fiji pink.

Only thing that stops me from going ahead is I might just go aussie gold lol

 

[Reefrookie220]

@mdbannister good to see you creeping in here! I've been following your build!

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

@mdbannister good to see you creeping in here! I've been following your build!

Yes sir! Excited to see how your build develops! Thanks for following mine. Keep us updated! What are your livestock plans?

 

[Reefrookie220]

What are your livestock plans?

I know for sure I'll have a pair of clowns, a blue star leopard wrasse, and a melanisain pearl wrasse, starry blenny, and maybe a yellow eye kole tang.

I usually try for an extensive CUC from the start, but with curing my rock correctly this time it may not be necessary.

As for coral, ive been bitten by the sps bug and they will probably dominate, but definitely gonna have some sweet lps in the way of chalice and torches. I've started a small zoos collection, it'll continue to grow as well.

 

[Reefrookie220]

Ok! So after many delays and schedule conflict and crazy family stuff I've finally got back around to this build.

No where close to being wet though

I also decided to go with a different skimmer, picked up locally. It's a reefdynamics ins80 with a pump upgrade.

Rock is still in an LC bath, checked daily. Still precipitate, so still changing water and dosing.

I'm in luck that petco is having the 1$/g sale , so I'm snagging a 40 breeder. And I'm looking at sump/plumbing options.

I'm thinking about this:

Thoughts? Comments?

Just not sure how I'd plumb the split so I could run slower through the fuge, because I'm on the fence with the siporax. I seem not to be able to find enough info to convince me. Not for lack of trying !

As for the fuge, I want to make it large as feasable to accommodate a plethora of macros, I've found an online source that has a huge variety! Il have mangroves as well.

I had heard about ordering from algaebarn but never looked into it until I started following @cale0721 'S thread. So I'll probably place a large order after cycle to seed the fuge and tank with tons of life.

Also considering garf grunge.

 

[BlueDevil]

I have some concerns with how you have designed your sump, especially since you want low flow through the fuge. With having a drain going straight into the fuge section (which is what you seem to have mapped out), I would imagine it would see a LOT of flow, unless you put a gate valve on it so you can reduce the drain to just a trickle to create a tiny bit of flow.

Is there a reason why you haven't gone with a conventional sump design? Overflow drain to the far left, followed by fuge, followed by return section, each separated by baffles? I think as long as you have some good up/down or left/right flow patterned baffles, the flow should not be too strong.

You typically want the dirtiest water to go into the skimmer chamber to skim out the nutrients, followed by flow through a fuge, and finally, the cleanest possible water going into your return chamber. The way you have it, you might end up with some 'dirty' water making it's way into the return chamber before the skimmer can get to it. Just my two cents worth

The place that I got my baffles cut is Glass Doctor on Central Ave. Here's the link to their info: Glass Doctor

 

[Reefrookie220]

The way you have it, you might end up with some 'dirty' water making it's way into the return chamber before the skimmer can get to it.

Call it crazy, but this, at least in my head, came to me after reading about your ULNS issues.

I planned on a valve to slow it through the fuge, but wanted a bit of the water unskimmed to combat the issue of not being able to get any nutrients and having to dose products like stump remover or the ME your using.

As well as putting a valve to slow flow down, I was thinking about siliconing a stand pipe to the bottom of the fuge section about 4in tall, so the water overflowed it into the fuge...similiar to the way the trigger ruby 36 works.

I guess is always confused me, putting a skimmer before a fuge...i thought that the macros likes the stuff the skimmer pulls out.

If the above isn't true, it's easily changed!


Edit: I've been reading tons of stuff on triton and they recommend a large algae bed (fuge) before any mechanical filtration.

Maybe I'm tying to implement to many pieces from to many methods lol.

 

[BlueDevil]

The only downside to using my ULNS issues to dictate sump design is that in my case, I can somewhat control how much NO3 goes into the system, knowing that without any action on my part, my system will tend to run UNLS. I can always stop the dosing once my NO3 is at a level I want it. However, if you design your fuge such that some amount of 'dirty' water always goes back through the return, your NO3 might run amuck without you being able to control them if the fuge doesn't perform like you had anticipated.

Again, all this is just my take on it. As you know, everyone goes things differently and there will always be something that works for one person but totally crashes someone else's system.

Now this part will involve a lot of extra work, but this won't be a permanent design. You could try it your way, and if it doesn't work you can always cut the silicone and take the baffles apart and redesign it a different way. The only downside is that you will need a replacement sump while you make the changes on your primary.

 

[Reefrookie220]

I may just go traditional, as I have a 25g cube that's drilled and would make a cool display fuge down the road. I wanna get this bad boy wet.

 

[BlueDevil]

I may just go traditional, as I have a 25g cube that's drilled and would make a cool display fuge down the road. I wanna get this bad boy wet.

I have found that the simpler I keep my system, the better it does, and creates less headaches. And honestly, in my opinion again, unless you are way overfeeding, or don't have other efficient export system, along with regular maintenance, a fuge is no longer necessary. With the advancements made in skimmer technology, and coupled with things like carbon/GFO reactors, there are plenty of other efficient export tools than having to rely on a fuge.