Reinforcing particle board stand

[wickette]

I got a 29g setup off craigslist, came with a particle board stand. One bottom corner was damaged, 1"x2" section worn off, didnt take any chances and made/attached a frame to go under the stand. I also added a 2x4 to run under the top panel, just a precaution. (I attached a rough sketch,my stand has a top drawer, I made it shorter to fit the 2x4)

Question; Since I have a solid wood board along the top and bottom of the stand, Should I nail a 1/2" plywood board to back of the stand from top to the floor, or wont do much (since load would be on the nails)



ps Im know building from scratch is the preferred advice here, Im mid way through building a 90g stand, this is a side project I want to get done quick so I can go back to that.

 

[don_chuwish]

With that small of a tank you're fine as is - but a backing sheet of 1/4" plywood will add a LOT of strength. Both against compression and more importantly against racking. Your tank won't crush that stand, but a person bumping into it might cause some problems.

 

[Quietman]

Its probably fine. However for peace of mind and wife "told you so prevention"...I would beef up the skin as that what transfer load to floor on these designs. Id go 1/2 or 3/4 just for the screw to bite along the back. Plywood on edge is very strong. Use deck screws, not nails. 100# load per screw conservatively and 2-3 per corner will do ya. May run another 1x3 up each front corner to prevent twist - that's the bumping into it stress.

 

[wickette]

With that small of a tank you're fine as is - but a backing sheet of 1/4" plywood will add a LOT of strength. Both against compression and more importantly against racking. Your tank won't crush that stand, but a person bumping into it might cause some problems.

Its already torsion proof, the existing backing gives it plenty of stability, the horizontal beams give even more. The 1/2" plywood I want to add on the back will run flush to the ground giving it another "leg" to take the load from the top and bottom shelves, itll only be attached by deck screws running across the top and bottom nowhere else. my concern is if there is actual load the original panels cant handle, the board will bulge, or the screws slant down, anything like that? or am I still good

Its probably fine. However for peace of mind and wife "told you so prevention"...I would beef up the skin as that what transfer load to floor on these designs. Id go 1/2 or 3/4 just for the screw to bite along the back. Plywood on edge is very strong. Use deck screws, not nails. 100# load per screw conservatively and 2-3 per corner will do ya. May run another 1x3 up each front corner to prevent twist - that's the bumping into it stress.

Do you mean add a layer of plywood outside the existing particle board? If so, the left and right sides hold all the weight and are 14" wide each. I want to add the board to the back because it adds a 32" supporting board down the back.




Cross section of the stand, (wood I added in red), and the attachment of my plywood in the back.

 

[Quietman]

Yes I just meant the back. I don't know the quality of existing side support boards with the damage you commented on. If the particle board is solid with no water damage you could be fine as is. You're only going to have maybe 300 lbs load. But any back will stiffen up the stand considerably and if you're adding a back, extend it to floor to help with load and stability.

 

[wickette]

putting the plywood back on today, wont do any harm (except for the wasted deck screws, they're overpriced and I never need the same size more than once, I cringe every time I buy a box)

 

[wickette]

Yes I just meant the back. I don't know the quality of existing side support boards with the damage you commented on. If the particle board is solid with no water damage you could be fine as is.

its seemed in decent shape, its was stored in the back of a concrete floored basement, the damaged corner looks like its from dragged on concrete (not water stained or bloated).
Some detective work, this thing was most likely a walmart starter kit that was sold from 2008-2014. This is all precautions in case this particle board stand was stored in a damp basement for 11 years (wont fail immediately, may slowly start sagging with 300lbs on it 24/7).

Im not so daring to jump on it, but i did sit on it with out it wobbling.

 

[kpl_creations]

Like the others have said, a plywood back would really help. Deck screws are pretty good but stainless would be better if you have them. And I would add some Titebond III wood glue if there is enough surface area.

 

[wickette]

ack, the back panel bulged out exaggerated but looks something like this

Like the others have said, a plywood back would really help. Deck screws are pretty good but stainless would be better if you have them. And I would add some Titebond III wood glue if there is enough surface area.

its going over the laminated mdf backing so glues wont help.

 

[Johnny M]

If it were me just for peace of mind I would buy a new stand & be done with it. A new one shouldn't be much money for a 29g.

 

[Aneasytarget]

Its already torsion proof, the existing backing gives it plenty of stability, the horizontal beams give even more. The 1/2" plywood I want to add on the back will run flush to the ground giving it another "leg" to take the load from the top and bottom shelves, itll only be attached by deck screws running across the top and bottom nowhere else. my concern is if there is actual load the original panels cant handle, the board will bulge, or the screws slant down, anything like that? or am I still good






Do you mean add a layer of plywood outside the existing particle board? If so, the left and right sides hold all the weight and are 14" wide each. I want to add the board to the back because it adds a 32" supporting board down the back.




Cross section of the stand, (wood I added in red), and the attachment of my plywood in the back.

If the rear board is added for lateral stability then screw into sides. All intersecting pieces should be connected.
If you think screws might compromise the sides and you just want to transfer load from top to bottom (red) member, then just use two more 2x4’s vertical running top to bottom.

I would buy marine ply or solid timber and use the original as template to cut new panels but I get what you’re trying to do.

Good Luck

 

[wickette]

If the rear board is added for lateral stability then screw into sides. All intersecting pieces should be connected.
If you think screws might compromise the sides and you just want to transfer load from top to bottom (red) member, then just use two more 2x4’s vertical running top to bottom.

I would buy marine ply or solid timber and use the original as template to cut new panels but I get what you’re trying to do.

Good Luck

I cant add verticle 2x4 because there are too many shelves in the way


Most of this was precaution, putting that aside Only thing I actually needed fom the back plyis is a something across the back that touches the floor. If what I have is good enough for that purpose even if it doesnt add vertical support, its good enough.

Otherwise;

i cant add a solid wood to the bottom, is too big to cut accurately (2 & 5/16" )
I cant use a strip of plywood and attached to the bottom piece of solid wood, only connected to one spot plane stable (like side photo bellow). There are plenty of complex fixes for this, what is the easiest solution?

 

[Aneasytarget]

Y

I cant add verticle 2x4 because there are too many shelves in the way


Most of this was precaution, putting that aside Only thing I actually needed fom the back plyis is a something across the back that touches the floor. If what I have is good enough for that purpose even if it doesnt add vertical support, its good enough.

Otherwise;

i cant add a solid wood to the bottom, is too big to cut accurately (2 & 5/16" )
I cant use a strip of plywood and attached to the bottom piece of solid wood, only connected to one spot plane stable (like side photo bellow). There are plenty of complex fixes for this, what is the easiest solution?


[/QUOTE
Yes, if you want a vertical support to rear then run ply to floor. Keep in mind you may have issues levelling the stand if your floor isn’t level.
To keep back panel from bowing add “L” bracket internally connecting to side panels. 1/3rd points should do it. “L” brackets are 1 inch long; hardware store.

 

[rc1626]

What about adding a 2×4 horizontally across the back half way up the height of the stand. Deck screws through sides of stand to hold in place. Now you have a strip to screw to on top, middle and bottom for back panel.