Radman73
Valuable Member
I am placing my fuge in our garage, just on the other side of the wall from where the tank and sump will be. Tank is a 220, sump is a 40b, fuge is a 75.
My reasons are that
a) I want to test the waters so to speak on how the fuge being in the garage will affect temps and evaporation given my central FL location. I have no problem buying a chiller but why if I don't have to.
b) It allows an easy method for performing AWC's using my DOS, allowing for easy manual WC's should the need or desire arise, and allows me to place my ATO pump, but not sensors, out in the garage where the ATO brute will be located.
c) I want the fuge to act as additional overflow capacity for my 40b sump. While I'm confident the sump is built to handle any power outage overflow it's better to be safe than sorry and allows some flexibility should I ever desire to tie in an additional tank to that sump.
My main concern resolves around c. The 75gal fuge is drilled on the bottom. My plan is to use both holes as drains/connections back to the sump. However, to utilize those bottom holes means the water would have to travel up, probably 12-16 inches, to be at a level that the sump return/overflow holes are drilled. Theoretically, it should work. As the fuge level rises higher than the sump level, by a nominal amount, the water will flow to the sump. As the sump fills up on a power loss, the water should reverse flow and go back to the fuge. This would be very easy to implement.
My alternative is to plug the bottom holes and drill 2 new holes in the side that at the same height as the sump holes in the house or slightly higher.
To be clear, the return pump section of the sump should be lower than the normal operating level of the fuge. Only in a power out situation would the sump level rise to the point that water would flow from the sump and into the fuge via the fuge drains.
Hopefully this makes sense to someone lol!
My reasons are that
a) I want to test the waters so to speak on how the fuge being in the garage will affect temps and evaporation given my central FL location. I have no problem buying a chiller but why if I don't have to.
b) It allows an easy method for performing AWC's using my DOS, allowing for easy manual WC's should the need or desire arise, and allows me to place my ATO pump, but not sensors, out in the garage where the ATO brute will be located.
c) I want the fuge to act as additional overflow capacity for my 40b sump. While I'm confident the sump is built to handle any power outage overflow it's better to be safe than sorry and allows some flexibility should I ever desire to tie in an additional tank to that sump.
My main concern resolves around c. The 75gal fuge is drilled on the bottom. My plan is to use both holes as drains/connections back to the sump. However, to utilize those bottom holes means the water would have to travel up, probably 12-16 inches, to be at a level that the sump return/overflow holes are drilled. Theoretically, it should work. As the fuge level rises higher than the sump level, by a nominal amount, the water will flow to the sump. As the sump fills up on a power loss, the water should reverse flow and go back to the fuge. This would be very easy to implement.
My alternative is to plug the bottom holes and drill 2 new holes in the side that at the same height as the sump holes in the house or slightly higher.
To be clear, the return pump section of the sump should be lower than the normal operating level of the fuge. Only in a power out situation would the sump level rise to the point that water would flow from the sump and into the fuge via the fuge drains.
Hopefully this makes sense to someone lol!
