Removing 40 breeder trim and adding eurobracing for ghost overflow

[Reefinmike]

Hey all, i’m setting up a 40 breeder reef. While I know it’s probably going to turn out just fine, i’m a bit weary of drilling 3 or 4 holes in it. I have a 3/4” bulkhead diamond bit as well as the wolf drill guide. I did a couple test holes and both worked but i seemed to drill at an angle with both. I drilled a granite countertop with a half inch bit, it took over an hour and the drill drifted to a pretty severe angle. The jig itself locks solid at 90 but I believe a combination of my cheap harbor freight drill and the slop in the jig caused the hole to be drilled at an angle.

I was considering removing the plastic trim from my aquaeon 40 breeder and creating a 2-3” raised lip using some 3/8” glass. I would leave a 7-10” gap on the left side and silicon in an overflow box. I would add the bottom of the overflow box after drilling holes in case I crack the glass. It would be easily replaced if i have any problems. The tank is in a left hand corner so i think this would look super clean with the overflow tucked in the wall cavity . It would also make for a really nice peninsula tank in the future.

Has anyone ever done something like this? I realize the glass normally bows when it is filled with water. I wonder if a strip of 3/8” glass will bow with it without cracking or if it will prevent the tank from bowing entirely. I would assume that some “euro bracing” with strips of glass flat on top would be necessary. Would an outer 2-3” 3/8” glass perimeter be sufficient or should I include a center brace?

Thanks for any input, especially pictures!

 

[hdsoftail1065]

Bump

 

[Jacked Reefer]

Did this in my 10 gallon. I have a YouTube video about it on my channel Hooked On Aquariums

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

the trim is there for a reason.

 

[Jacked Reefer]

the trim is there for a reason.

A 2 inch full perimeter of 3/8 inch glass with some construction grade silicone like momentive RTV and he would be more than fine

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

A 2 inch full perimeter of 3/8 inch glass with some construction grade silicone like momentive RTV and he would be more than fine

depends. i used to build glass tanks. theres more to it, but it could work.

 

[Reefinmike]

Octo- I realize the trim is there for some reason but for smaller tanks the top trim seems to be aesthetic and protection from splitting the pane by chipping the the top edge. It may provide some support to the corners but I cant see how some flimsy plastic is vital to the aquariums integrity. Longer tanks with center braces built into the trim absolutely serve to minimize the bowing of the glass. My proposed idea would be a 4-5” strip of glass with 1.5” of it siliconed on the aquarium glass with a 2-3” perimeter of eurobracing. I’ll likely put a center brace through it as well unless someone chimes in saying it’s absolute overkill. Of course i’m no expert but feel the tank would be significantly sturdier with just the 3/8” sides going around the perimeter. Adding eurobracing will only make it even stronger.

My ONLY concern is how two pieces of glass siliconed together will bow. Would it be smarter to use 1/4” glass- same as the tank or go overkill with 3/8 or 1/2”? I feel i’m overthinking this but its best to see other’s experience when it comes to 47 gallons of water on the floor(yes, a 40b is actually 47 gallons). I have another 40 set up to hold rock and it is ~85% full. The bowing seems to be near undetectable. The glass bows exactly much as the trim. The pic is taken with a 30” level centered on the tank with equal air space on both sides.