Removing my socks

[basile]

I removed my sock tonight. Simply because I'm already tired of changing/cleaning them, after only 6 months-lol.
However I am concerned about all that they did/do remove now taking up residence in my sump/DT. They do keep the tank extra clean no doubt about that!
I'll see how it goes

No doubt both are sump will get dirtier, thats a given. But its the benefit i'm curious about. Many in the hobby don't have them, some don't have reactors or even skimmers for that matter and have great tanks, and not only softies like some pretends. So the amount of particules and matter we extract might be too much. Thats my angle here.

Many creature we have could do better with a little less filtration i think. It also depends what's in are tank as well . For me i need , really need more particules because of my bioload and the species i'm hosting.

If you need a sterile tank with 0 of everything by all means go for it, but my system requires a better balance due to my huge macro refugium and the softies i have plus the inverts that eats minutes particules and phytos. If all that is captured in a mesh , its better for me to remove it.

Hope everything goes well in your tank as well, do you have a FTS, thanks.

 

[basile]

I removed my sock tonight. Simply because I'm already tired of changing/cleaning them, after only 6 months-lol. <br>
However I am concerned about all that they did/do remove now taking up residence in my sump/DT. They do keep the tank extra clean no doubt about that! <br>
I'll see how it goes <img src="https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" smilieid="1" class="inlineimg">

No doubt both are sump will get dirtier, thats a given. But its the benefit i'm curious about. Many in the hobby don't have them, some don't have reactors or even skimmers for that matter and have great tanks, and not only softies like some pretends.

So the amount of particules and matter we extract might be too much. Thats my angle here. Many creature we have could do better with a little less filtration i think. It also depends what's in are tank as well . For me i need , really need more particules because of my bioload and the species i'm hosting.

If you need a sterile tank with 0 of everything by all means go for it, but my system requires a better balance due to my huge macro refugium and the softies i have plus the inverts that eats minutes particules and phytos. If all that is captured in a mesh , its better for me to remove it. Hope everything goes well in your tank as well, do you have a FTS, thanks.

 

[Sewer Urchin]

I'm sure that you came across this right up:

Aquarium Invertebrates: A Good Look at the Crinoids ? Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog

So, what is it that they eat? Lots of things, with diets being highly variable from species to species. Known food items include: particles of detritus, ciliated protozoans, diatoms, foraminifera, and crustacean zooplankton, as well as several types of eggs, embryos, and larvae, with most all items being in the range of 0.05 to 0.4mm in size (Rutman & Fishelson 1969, West 1978, Meyer 1979 & 1982, La Touche & West 1980, Holland et al. 1991, Fossa & Nilsen 2002, Kitazawa et al. 2007).

I say leave the socks on, but feed frequently since the socks will only capture the larger stuff. I don't know if the rest of the tank will tolerate the increased nutrients. I like the blending of Azoo ( non photosynthetic) and traditional corals, it is a balancing act.

 

[NanaReefer]

ATM I have nothing but LPS and 1 Birds Nest. I'll give several weeks before I make up my mind.

 

[basile]

I'm sure that you came across this right up:

Aquarium Invertebrates: A Good Look at the Crinoids ? Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog

So, what is it that they eat? Lots of things, with diets being highly variable from species to species. Known food items include: particles of detritus, ciliated protozoans, diatoms, foraminifera, and crustacean zooplankton, as well as several types of eggs, embryos, and larvae, with most all items being in the range of 0.05 to 0.4mm in size (Rutman & Fishelson 1969, West 1978, Meyer 1979 & 1982, La Touche & West 1980, Holland et al. 1991, Fossa & Nilsen 2002, Kitazawa et al. 2007).


I say leave the socks on, but feed frequently since the socks will only capture the larger stuff. I don't know if the rest of the tank will tolerate the increased nutrients. I like the blending of Azoo ( non photosynthetic) and traditional corals, it is a balancing act.

On the contrary read carefully this is exactly why i'm taking the socks OFF. They're felt and take out all the small particules, and the nylons take out my pods. Its the small particule, 0.05 to 0.4mm that is being taken out by my socks, that's what i want to leave in.

This is the extra fauna or larvae and detritus i want them to have, the big particule will accumulate in the sump and i'll deal with it my own way when i don WC with my syphoning , and water vack. Yes i had red that and it was on that notion that i was doing exactly that.

 

[jt17]

If the poll doesn't convince you then you'll have to compromise and remove only one sock. Then half will recirculate. then you can have one sock to catch pods for target feeding.

 

[basile]

I just when to see a guy with tanks with no socks at all . And mostly sps and its fantastic. He's got a mix of both actually and wow. As they say seing is believing. i'm convince i'm on the right track now, and that i'll be ok. I mean if his sps can survive with no sock well my softies certanly will and the new finicky seastars may survive with the extra spot feeding on top of the free flowing particules in the water column.

 

[NanaReefer]

I just when to see a guy with tanks with no socks at all . And mostly sps and its fantastic. He's got a mix of both actually and wow. As they say seing is believing. i'm convince i'm on the right track now, and that i'll be ok. I mean if his sps can survive with no sock well my softies certanly will and the new finicky seastars may survive with the extra spot feeding on top of the free flowing particules in the water column.

Ok but what other means of filtration is he using? Reactors?

 

[basile]

Ok but what other means of filtration is he using? Reactors?

Just his skimmer, like me and a carbon reactor. And he dose the same as me cal, mg, and akl.

I dose for my fuge and for my special softies and gorgonians too, NPS, and will for the seastars so all that can't get caught in socks or it'll be a waste.

Like it is now. ever since i've been dosing i have to change my socks every day now, thats why i know its all my fauna marin and other supplements particules that clogs my socks. The colors is also indicative.

 

[melev]

I really really REALLY hate socks - I own four and use them annually - and I clean them annually if that tells you anything. One sock every three months... if that. But my tank is particulate free for the most part and all I have is a skimmer, refugium, carbon reactor and calcium reactor. No sponges, pads, nada.

 

[basile]

I really really REALLY hate socks - I own four and use them annually - and I clean them annually if that tells you anything. One sock every three months... if that. But my tank is particulate free for the most part and all I have is a skimmer, refugium, carbon reactor and calcium reactor. No sponges, pads, nada.

Those are nice shots of your a great system. And you have great corals , and nice fishes too. Its a beautyfull system, bravo. That a great idea once and a while for the socks. I had another one. It was to put only one sock and cut the bottom so no pods would get stuck into it. However its the fine particulate i want left alone still. but i'm keeping those ideas in reserve, thanks for sharing your input.

 

[basile]

Well i found my crinoid still at the same place now for a week now , but this morning she's got her arms extended. Which means she's feeding. According to litterature when in a ball they're resting or protecting themselves, but when fully extended they're feeding and uses the currents to do so.




" Feeding
Crinoids are passive suspension feeders that consume food items captured from surrounding waters, being passive because they don't generate any sort of current themselves. Instead, they let the water bring food to them. However, they can change their location, overall orientation, and arm and pinnule extension to maximize food collection under different environmental conditions. Also note that some species apparently prefer strong currents while others prefer lower to weak currents (Meyer 1982, Meyer et al. 1984, Baumiller 1997).


When feeding, the adhesive podia emerging from the arms and pinnules snare food items, sometimes with the assistance of mucous threads, and then pass them into the grooves that line them. Cilia in the grooves then guide the items to the mouth where they are ingested (Nichols 1960, Byrne & Fontaine 1981, Meyer 1982, Holland et al. 1986).


So, what is it that they eat? Lots of things, with diets being highly variable from species to species. Known food items include: particles of detritus, ciliated protozoans, diatoms, foraminifera, and crustacean zooplankton, as well as several types of eggs, embryos, and larvae, with most all items being in the range of 0.05 to 0.4mm in size (Rutman & Fishelson 1969, West 1978, Meyer 1979 & 1982, La Touche & West 1980, Holland et al. 1991, Fossa & Nilsen 2002, Kitazawa et al. 2007)."


"Behavior
Crinoids typically sit in place with their arms extended to feed. However, as noted above, they can ball up when not feeding by rolling their arms up into tight coils, or by wrapping them around their body. Feather stars can also crawl around by using the cirri on their underside, and as mentioned above, sea lilies can also crawl about using their arms and/or the cirri on their stalks. This allows crinoids to move to a location where the current is suitable for feeding and/or to avoid predation."


Aquarium Invertebrates: A Good Look at the Crinoids ? Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog


So imagine my delight this morning. I'll be adding to my dosing suppliment, the following;


-OysterFeast
-Cyclop-eeze
-what ever i can find for filter feeders that will suit them.


I have now all the fauna marin filterfeeders product and sponge foods, in a mix and dosing every hour, so it should do ok . The socks are OFF the the responce of the feather star is encouraging.

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/me...arfire-reef-tank-build-up-13.html#post2115385

 

[basile]

Found my new toy to clean my new dirty sump and also water mess.


Pond Vacuum Vac Vaccuum Pool Muck Cleaner Spa 5 Gal Cap Koi Fish Water Feature | eBay

Their's plenty of other models between $190-250 depending. its worth a pump and its also convenient when you have a mess so why not we're all prone to have one once and a while.

The Pond Vac is one of the newest and most powerful pond vacuums in the industry. This vacuum's 2 H.P. motor can remove dirt particles up to 3/8" in diameter, such as algae, dead plants and leaves.
The Matala Pond Vac also has an on board electronic monitor switch. Once the container is full, the Vacuum automatically turns off. The container empties in 25-30 seconds and course debris can be collected into a sludge collection bag that is included. Works well with ponds up to 3 ft. depth.
More powerful suction than the competing Oase Pondomatic or Pond-Tech brand vaccums!
Specifications:
Hose on Intake: 16' Long.
Hose on Discharge: 8.2' Long.
Max Suction Height: 7 ft.
Warranty: 2 yr.
Dimensions (dia X H): 15" X 20".
Cord Length: 16 ft.
Voltage: 120V. Max Watts: 1400.



​

i've named it R2D4 FOR MY WATERCHAGES TOO.​

 

[basile]

price reduction

Well i've switch to a smaller model and it did a great job too; take a look.


Instead of a $200 thing with a 3 horse power to empty a pool, i whent for the practicle $39 at Lowes on special instead of $69 for the mini-me wet and dry shop-vac. All plastic and used by a budy of mine who raves by it.

An easy build, plug and play.

I just syphoned my water without going after anything except the rubbles in one section i wanted clean since i stopped using the socks; i wanted to see if their was much debris.

Actually not much debris was in that section mostly stayed behind, in the skimmer section, which i'll clean up next week at my next WC.

I vacuumed both side of the cubed module with the left over water ; about 3 gallons. And removed all the sediment, not that much , and refilled the sump. Next week another section will be cleaned up with the shop vac.

I emptied it in the toilet and rinsed it

Everything is in plastic so no rusting here.

The motor is protected by this membrane 100% water proof and washable

I've look inside after , everything was dry , so letting it dry after each use should be fine .

I'll put it back together tomorrow when its dry. And ready for the next WC.

​

 

[melev]

Glad to hear it's working out fine as I'd suggested. I have a Bucket Top shopvac I got at Home Depot. It fits a 5g bucket and cost $20. It's a good way to remove some stuff if you don't have a lot of water to extract.

 

[NanaReefer]

Glad to hear it's working out fine as I'd suggested. I have a Bucket Top shopvac I got at Home Depot. It fits a 5g bucket and cost $20. It's a good way to remove some stuff if you don't have a lot of water to extract.

That's what I need! But we have no Home Depot here. Lowes, Menards is it and neither one has them.

 

[hllywd]

Hey basile, The pleated filter is for dry vac purposes only and should be removed when you use the vac in wet situations. If you take the filter off and look inside there is a ball that shuts off the suction when the water level gets too high. this prevents water from spewing out the exhaust. The filter will interfere with it's operation. Water should never be able to get from the vacuum canister to the motor due to the way wet/dry vacs are designed.

 

[hllywd]

As for filter socks, I never used them till a couple years ago and I currently have a really bad caulerpa infestation that started probably a year ago. I've been reading about them being nitrate factories and although I don't measure any NO3, or PO4 with new Salifert test kits I still have the problem, I also grow copious amounts of chaeto in my sump so I have nutrients coming from someplace. My RO/DI is fine, and I feed pretty light.

I'm really thinking about getting rid of my socks to see if it makes a difference.

 

[Stubaca]

Each system is different. Some may require socks and some may not. I have been running for several months without now and everything seems fine. I have 100 gallons total and wc every 2 weeks. I have mostly sps. Millis and acros bta's. Everything seems just as good as when I ran with socks! I also put some extra power heads in my sump chambers to make sure no particles just sit in them! This way it all washes back out to tank and when I do a wc I use a gravel vacuum and gets all that crap out. I have a skimmer, chaeto, bio pellets and carbon. Take a chance and try without socks! I don't see it hurting anything as long as you keep up on wc!

 

[Browner20]

I say go for it which it sounds like you may have already done. I use socks to polish but my tank is mostly SPS. I usually look into the socks after removing to grab any snails, starfish, other small creatures (except the bristle worms) and repatriate them to the DT. I'm not scared of the bristle worms just too lazy to wear gloves - I used to dump them in my refugium when I had one. Probably my only concern would be one of those hard bodies creatures damaging my skimmer pump. I'm sure a snail shell could do a number on an impeller and not keen on adding a screen to the pump as it would reduce flow. It hasn't happened in a while but the smaller clown or wrasse go "sock diving" when they get bored in the DT or when they want to freak me out!