removing Phosphates from pukani
- Thread starter SVP
- Start date
- Tagged users None
LittleMaui
Active Member
I have followed the controversy regarding this rock for years. I ordered about the same amount as live rock when it was still being shipped to the US. I cycled it in a brute can for 4-6 weeks. That was 3 years ago. This rock is excellent - since it is so light and porous. I can't say that any problems along the way have been due to the rock. I typically keep my phosphate around .05 - .08, which is higher than I'd like - mostly becuase of overfeeding.
KrisReef
10K Club member
I bought a pool product at Lowes for removing phosphate (or algae). I used it in a bucket and added a tiny amount. Retested, treated again and gave the remaining product to a buddy with a pool
Listed Lanthanum chloride on the label in tiny font.
PghReef
Well-Known Member
I've used this rock twice, both times from BRS shipped years apart. Great rock easy to work with and very unique. I've actually always had problems keeping nitrates or phosphates detectable once it is fully cycled it works so well.
The last time I did a bleach a bath for for a week, freshwater for a week, and then vinager dilution for 24 hours. Cycled in a tub and had high phosphates but after a couple WC and many months they were 0.
The last time I did a bleach a bath for for a week, freshwater for a week, and then vinager dilution for 24 hours. Cycled in a tub and had high phosphates but after a couple WC and many months they were 0.
Here’s how I have dealt with this rock.
1. Rinse with the hose as you did
2. Goes into a tub of salt water with high flow. More the better.
3. Bottled bacteria goes in to kick start my cycle. (Notice I’m not even worried about phosphates yet)
4. Test weekly for phosphates.
5. If I observe over time that the phosphates begin rising and I’m not adding anything into the tank then i assume its leeching. Not all pukani leeches but most does in my experience.
6. Hook up a GFO reactor and let it run. Change out the media as needed. Continue to test. When you hit 0 take it offline. Keep letting it sit/test weekly. If it rises repeat. If it stays stable you’re done.
the benefit here is you’re cycling the whole time. You’re doing everything in an easy to change container with no lights, no livestock, etc. you can seed the dry rock if you want instead or you can use the bottled bacteria.
my only warning here is careful not to bottom out your phosphate. Gfo will suck that rock dry. Be prepared to feed regular right away and do WC to control nitrates. You’re going to want to watch your phosphates initially or you’re going to have Dino’s on your hand which is way more annoying then leeching phosphates. Good luck!
1. Rinse with the hose as you did
2. Goes into a tub of salt water with high flow. More the better.
3. Bottled bacteria goes in to kick start my cycle. (Notice I’m not even worried about phosphates yet)
4. Test weekly for phosphates.
5. If I observe over time that the phosphates begin rising and I’m not adding anything into the tank then i assume its leeching. Not all pukani leeches but most does in my experience.
6. Hook up a GFO reactor and let it run. Change out the media as needed. Continue to test. When you hit 0 take it offline. Keep letting it sit/test weekly. If it rises repeat. If it stays stable you’re done.
the benefit here is you’re cycling the whole time. You’re doing everything in an easy to change container with no lights, no livestock, etc. you can seed the dry rock if you want instead or you can use the bottled bacteria.
my only warning here is careful not to bottom out your phosphate. Gfo will suck that rock dry. Be prepared to feed regular right away and do WC to control nitrates. You’re going to want to watch your phosphates initially or you’re going to have Dino’s on your hand which is way more annoying then leeching phosphates. Good luck!
