Replacing baffle in sump

[Kyle Bruin]

I’m looking to replace the baffle between my skimmer and return sections. My goal is to combine the ATO (front right corner) and return sections.

Any tips or tricks to cutting the existing pieces of glass out? How about for silicon the new sections back in?

Websites or stores to buy the new glass pieces? Low Iron? Methods to cut the glass sheets to size?

Also if you know websites or threads with guides on putting together a sump that may be helpful too.

Suggestions on what silicone to use? Glass is 6mm thick. Thanks in advance.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

I’m looking to replace the baffle between my skimmer and return sections. My goal is to combine the ATO (front right corner) and return sections.

Any tips or tricks to cutting the existing pieces of glass out? How about for silicon the new sections back in?

Websites or stores to buy the new glass pieces? Low Iron? Methods to cut the glass sheets to size?

Also if you know websites or threads with guides on putting together a sump that may be helpful too.

Suggestions on what silicone to use? Glass is 6mm thick. Thanks in advance.

Fun fun fun. I would use a cleaning razor blade to cut the silicone. Removing the old stuff will take patience. Don’t rush this part by applying to much force. If you get all the caulking out but the panel is still tight, starting at the top wedge you razor between the two panels and work your way down.
Cutting the glass you'll need a good cutter for 1/4 inch. I recommend CRL products there. As for a glass distributor I have only tried peninsula glass for small orders. They were great. Lot of options starting out at 8 bucks a square foot. Use RTV silicone. NSF grades are available. When you go to install the size the baffle, I always make mine 1/16-1/8th shy of the inside tight measurements. This allows the silicone to squeeze in and form a strong bond all throughout

 

[Kyle Bruin]

Fun fun fun. I would use a cleaning razor blade to cut the silicone. Removing the old stuff will take patience. Don’t rush this part by applying to much force. If you get all the caulking out but the panel is still tight, starting at the top wedge you razor between the two panels and work your way down.
Cutting the glass you'll need a good cutter for 1/4 inch. I recommend CRL products there. As for a glass distributor I have only tried peninsula glass for small orders. They were great. Lot of options starting out at 8 bucks a square foot. Use RTV silicone. NSF grades are available. When you go to install the size the baffle, I always make mine 1/16-1/8th shy of the inside tight measurements. This allows the silicone to squeeze in and form a strong bond all throughout

This is super helpful.

I guess technically I could reuse one piece of glass. The piece that separates the skimmer section and baffle also is part of the ATO wall. This piece I could take out and simply cut the ATO portion down so that it is even with the baffle wall. I’d then just need to buy one piece for the upper portion of the baffle.

How do you recommend applying the silicone so it doesn’t get everywhere? Apply it to the piece that is going in? Place the glass then run beads on both sides? Scrape it after? Do I need clamps? Any videos of this process?

 

[ca1ore]

Depends on how much separation there is in the silicone joints. If there’s a bit of space a PVC cable saw is a great way to get through the joints. Then a single edged blade to get off what’s left. I always have glass cut to size by a local glass store. Silicone for sump baffles doesn’t really matter. I’ve used pretty much any of the acetoxy cure room temp vulcanizing (that’s what RTV means) choices ... GE1, momentive or ASI.

 

[Kyle Bruin]

Depends on how much separation there is in the silicone joints. If there’s a bit of space a PVC cable saw is a great way to get through the joints. Then a single edged blade to get off what’s left. I always have glass cut to size by a local glass store. Silicone for sump baffles doesn’t really matter. I’ve used pretty much any of the acetoxy cure room temp vulcanizing (that’s what RTV means) choices ... GE1, momentive or ASI.

Thank you! Is the PVC cable saw a product that I can find or do you gotta make that? I read another thread that said they had trouble getting a blade between the glass pieces. They used fishing line.

My thinking/planning is to find a local glass shop that will cut the piece(s) for me. In the AM I’ll take apart the plumbing and sump. Drain and pull it out onto a table. I can then get the first part of the baffle out. I can then bring that piece to the shop to get them to cut the height down of the ATO section. The nice thing is if I bring that to them, they can make sure they get the width exactly the same. The height is far less important to be exact but I can bring them that piece too so they can get that dimension. Then hopefully in the afternoon I can be back and silicone it into place. How long does it need to cure before I can place it back and submerge/put force onto it? I can have the tank run for a day or so on my gyres and throw the heater into the display I suppose. Does this sound reasonable to accomplish in a day?

 

[ca1ore]

It is something you can buy. As long as there is a bit of space in the joint, it works really well. I always have two on hand as the cable isn't all that robust.

Husky PVC Cable Saw 80-517-111 - The Home Depot

Husky's PVC Cable Saw uses friction-generated heat to make cuts in tight spaces. The saw cuts PVC pipe, drainage and irrigation tubing from 1/2 in. to 4 in. diameter. It features a durable, braided stainless

www.homedepot.com