Replacing Live Wet Rock with Dry rock.

Rachel Elling

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I have a 65 gal saltwater tank that has been established for a year, and I have a bad Aptasia outbreak so I am thinking about completely removing all live rock and getting rid of the root of the issue and going to replace with dry reef saver rock instead. I do have live stock and coral in the tank but I was wondering if I cured and cycled my new dry rock in a trash bin, and then replace the rock all at once, would that be safe? I plan to do that while I am getting new floors put in my home and have to break down the tank to move it. Is it possible to cycle it in the trash bin before putting it in the tank so I don't have any livestock loss? I do not want to do partal changes and risk the new rock getting infected with the Aptasia.

What steps would I take? Would adding
Seachems stability to the new rock as it's cycling help?
 
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I have a 65 gal saltwater tank that has been established for a year, and I have a bad Aptasia outbreak so I am thinking about completely removing all live rock and getting rid of the root of the issue and going to replace with dry reef saver rock instead. I do have live stock and coral in the tank but I was wondering if I cured and cycled my new dry rock in a trash bin, and then replace the rock all at once, would that be safe? I plan to do that while I am getting new floors put in my home and have to break down the tank to move it. Is it possible to cycle it in the trash bin before putting it in the tank so I don't have any livestock loss? I do not want to do partal changes and risk the new rock getting infected with the Aptasia.

What steps would I take? Would adding Seachems Prime to the new rock as it's cycling help?

Yes just put it in fresh saltwater in a trash can with a power head, heater, and let it run. A light isn’t necessary to cure the rock. Just let it go and watch the water parameters so you’ll know when it’s done!
 
You will have to provide an ammonia source to cycle the reef saver rock. And depending on what your current stocking level is you may need a fairly high beginning ammonia level
 
I have a 65 gal saltwater tank that has been established for a year, and I have a bad Aptasia outbreak so I am thinking about completely removing all live rock and getting rid of the root of the issue and going to replace with dry reef saver rock instead. I do have live stock and coral in the tank but I was wondering if I cured and cycled my new dry rock in a trash bin, and then replace the rock all at once, would that be safe? I plan to do that while I am getting new floors put in my home and have to break down the tank to move it. Is it possible to cycle it in the trash bin before putting it in the tank so I don't have any livestock loss? I do not want to do partal changes and risk the new rock getting infected with the Aptasia.

What steps would I take? Would adding
Seachems stability to the new rock as it's cycling help?

1. I dont think dry rock needs to be cured.
2. Check out the bacteria in a bottle - myth or fact on this site - Fritz Turbo seems to be a great cycle starter
3. Would consider putting a light on the rock - it can be cycled in the dark - but - it just delays the algae. You could also add your fish to the container - to naturally add ammonia.
 
You can seed it within the sump or another persons' established tank as long as it is pest free. yes, fritz Turbo start 900 is great,,,,,,, and Dr Tims seems to be the new industry best bacteria in a bottle. Removing live rock to replace with dry changes the Whole cycle.
A syringe with lemon juice does wonders on aptasia. Just takes time and patience. Eventually they will be All gone
 
Is it possible that there are Aptasia located in the sump, overflow box and pvc pipes? I have never had them so that is why I am asking.
 
Have you tried an Aptasia eating file fish or nudibranch first? A natural solution is better than nuking the whole tank and starting over.
 
Is it possible that there are Aptasia located in the sump, overflow box and pvc pipes? I have never had them so that is why I am asking.

Yes. They start at overflow and inside overflow box, piping, down to sump and even return lines.

That's why they are classified as NUISANCE
 

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