Return line leaking

[Jakepen]

Could I work some silicone in there?

 

[Jakepen]

I’d rather just run the tank without the loc line.

 

[dbl]

Man, any other option? Like I said if I take the loc line off it doesn’t leak. To pull the tank off the wall is difficult, then have to cut the plumbing apart and redo it. It’s such a slow leak, and like I said without the locline it doesn’t leak.

Hate to say it, but no other option. Those exterior threads are not the same as plumbing threads. It really is strictly for the BH nut. To be honest, I'm surprised it's working at all and not a real mess.

 

[dbl]

Could I work some silicone in there?

I’d rather just run the tank without the loc line.

My opinion is the silicone will not work. As I just said, I'm surprised it's not leaking regardless of the lockline.

Bottom line...it's your tank and your flooring. If you're comfortable with running without the locline and it's not leaking, then go for it. But in the spirit of full disclosure, I would highly recommend taking the time to correct it, as difficult as it may seem.

 

[User1]

Side note - Teflon tape has its own potential and many swear by it. Then again, just has many probably swear by Oatey® Great White® Pipe Joint Compound With PTFE I used to have plumbing leaks but once I redid everything using Oatey's joint compound my life got 10x more easier and plumbing more reliable.

You have some good advise on the plumbing here. Having just gone through this last week fix it now the right way if you can. I did a plumbing and leak check outside. Everything was more or less fine. Moved everything in the house and when I reconnected the sump one overflow leaked like yours at the bulkhead. I loosened up the nut, drained remaining water in overflow box, reset bulkhead, tightened up bulkhead nut / fitting, and it is fine now. Better now than having a mess to clean up that you can't move anything with stuff in it (rock, sand, etc).

 

[Jakepen]

Side note - Teflon tape has its own potential and many swear by it. Then again, just has many probably swear by Oatey® Great White® Pipe Joint Compound With PTFE I used to have plumbing leaks but once I redid everything using Oatey's joint compound my life got 10x more easier and plumbing more reliable.

You have some good advise on the plumbing here. Having just gone through this last week fix it now the right way if you can. I did a plumbing and leak check outside. Everything was more or less fine. Moved everything in the house and when I reconnected the sump one overflow leaked like yours at the bulkhead. I loosened up the nut, drained remaining water in overflow box, reset bulkhead, tightened up bulkhead nut / fitting, and it is fine now. Better now than having a mess to clean up that you can't move anything with stuff in it (rock, sand, etc).

 

[Fin]

I dunno, it doesn't look like he is using the outside threads on the bulkhead. Is this the adapter you used at that connection?

 

[Jakepen]

I dunno, it doesn't look like he is using the outside threads on the bulkhead. Is this the adapter you used at that connection?

Yes that’s it, well this to be exact

 

[Jakepen]

So I guess I was wrong, bulkheads are threaded on the inside...I think, I can’t remeber

 

[Fin]

Some are and some aren't.

 

[Fin]

You didn't leave yourself much room to work on that connection. That will be a real pain to remove to put some more tape on (which I don't recommend), or use some Oatey Great White PVC Joint Compound on those threads. You will likely have to cut that section out (from what I am seeing) and re-do it. Not going to be easy, if the tank is up against the wall.

 

[K. Steven]

Definitely use pipe thread sealant over teflon tape. Teflon tape is not meant for PVC applications. I had leaks using tape and once I switched to sealant, it solved the issue.

 

[K. Steven]

So I guess I was wrong, bulkheads are threaded on the inside...I think, I can’t remeber

You can get bulkheads that are slip/slip, slip/thread, thread/slip, or thread/thread.

 

[ca1ore]

So you used Teflon tape on the threads of the 3/4-1" adapter and screwed it into the inside of the bulkhead, right? Locline puts back pressure on the pump, so higher line pressure is probably why it leaks with the locline but not without. The obvious solution is to not use it (locline is mostly not useful anyhow). The other option is to just leave it. Most slow drips will self seal. Silicone will not adhere to wet surfaces anyhow, so it's not a good option.

 

[cracker]

Gotta ask ,where will the drip fall? In the sump hopefully or on the bottom of the stand /floor . The drip really won't hurt the tank overall but could cause issues with the stand etc. Maybe some type on container to place under it? Maybe easier to live with the drip than pulling the tank away from the wall.

 

[Jakepen]

Gotta ask ,where will the drip fall? In the sump hopefully or on the bottom of the stand /floor . The drip really won't hurt the tank overall but could cause issues with the stand etc. Maybe some type on container to place under it? Maybe easier to live with the drip than pulling the tank away from the wall.

Man I might just do this. I can put a container under the drip no problem (lands in the stand). Dump it back into the sump whenever I remember. Only other thought is to get the bulkhead out, and put some sealent on the threads.

So you used Teflon tape on the threads of the 3/4-1" adapter and screwed it into the inside of the bulkhead, right? Locline puts back pressure on the pump, so higher line pressure is probably why it leaks with the locline but not without. The obvious solution is to not use it (locline is mostly not useful anyhow). The other option is to just leave it. Most slow drips will self seal. Silicone will not adhere to wet surfaces anyhow, so it's not a good option.

I would keep locline off, but it makes more noise without the locline (hate the sound of splashing water).

Hate to say it, but no other option. Those exterior threads are not the same as plumbing threads. It really is strictly for the BH nut. To be honest, I'm surprised it's working at all and not a real mess.

Since it is actually threaded to the inside of the bulkhead, is it technically plumbed correctly?

 

[User1]

I would fix it now rather than using a bucket or other form of catch can. It is just biding time for a much larger accident to happen. I'd just pull it away from the wall and plumb it correctly so it doesn't leak. Test it while it is away from the wall, then tuck in place for a final check. Leaks lead to damage floors, drywall, and mildew.

 

[dbl]

...Since it is actually threaded to the inside of the bulkhead, is it technically plumbed correctly?

Since you've clarified you're in fact not using the external BH threads as originally indicated, yes, it appears to be plumbed correctly based on your additional comments and pictures.

I agree with the others that it would be best to redo it using thread sealant (not tape) but I also understand what an undertaking that would be at this point. If you can figure out a way to "catch" the drip go for it. You'll just have to remember to keep an eye on it and empty your container now and again. Or figure out a way to catch it and redirect it back to the sump.

 

[Jakepen]

Since you've clarified you're in fact not using the external BH threads as originally indicated, yes, it appears to be plumbed correctly based on your additional comments and pictures.

I agree with the others that it would be best to redo it using thread sealant (not tape) but I also understand what an undertaking that would be at this point. If you can figure out a way to "catch" the drip go for it. You'll just have to remember to keep an eye on it and empty your container now and again. Or figure out a way to catch it and redirect it back to the sump.

I thought about redirecting it as well, find a way to do that..

 

[Fin]

Here is a solution that I hesitate to even mention - BECAUSE I KNOW IT IS NOT THE CORRECT WAY - but I was faced with this same situation a dozen years ago, after getting my 140 up and running. I developed a drip at the same connection at the bulkhead as you have. I did not want to cut out the the bad connection and re-do the plumbing. Sooooo, I wrapped the joint in 2-part epoxy putty (comes in a roll at Lowes or HD) and let it dry. If you do choose to do this, make sure you knead the putty well, so it mixes properly. The surface has to be completely dry, or it won't adhere well. Also keep in mind that when you tear down the tank, you will have to cut the plumbing and the bulkhead to get it out.The connection remained leak free for 12 years, until I recently took down the tank and I had to cut the bulkhead and PVC to remove it.