Return plumbing help!!!!

Jack Eskay

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So I have a custom tank that had the return nozzles built into the back of the glass of the tank. How can I keep the nozzles and my pump from having back siphon is the event of power outage or tank cleaning???
Thanks to all that can help!!
 
If there is no space to drill a siphon break since they are into the back of the tank your only options are to keep the nozzles close enough to the surface to break the siphon themselves when shut off. Or you could put a check valve on your return plumbing. I would go with the first option since check valves will almost always fail at some point.
 
If there is no space to drill a siphon break since they are into the back of the tank your only options are to keep the nozzles close enough to the surface to break the siphon themselves when shut off. Or you could put a check valve on your return plumbing. I would go with the first option since check valves will almost always fail at some point.

Problem is if I keep the tank at the level of the return nozzles it will me under the intake.... grrrr. Poor plum planing on planet aquarium part...so would my best bet be to get a check valve?
 
Check valve sounds like the best option. Just make sure you clean it regularly. They make ones with clean out ports on them. They also make true union check valves which are completely removable for easy cleaning.
 
Check valve sounds like the best option. Just make sure you clean it regularly. They make ones with clean out ports on them. They also make true union check valves which are completely removable for easy cleaning.

I just picked one up at home depo! Not sure how it could possibly fail or would need to be cleaned but I will clean it bi monthly. Another question though.... how could I stop the backwards siphon when I try to take it out and clean it and how do I take it out and clean it... I will be gluing most stuff.
 
Put a ball valve above the check valve. Turn it off when you want to take the check valve off to clean it. Things can get caught in the flapper of the check valve and prevent it from closing. The flapper could also wear out and stop working.
 
Where is the return pipe connected to the DT? have a picture? if the return pipe is connected to the DT at a very low point then you need to have a valve, ball valve or or thing above the check valve to stop the water from exiting the DT while you are cleaning the check valve....

I just picked one up at home depo! Not sure how it could possibly fail or would need to be cleaned but I will clean it bi monthly. Another question though.... how could I stop the backwards siphon when I try to take it out and clean it and how do I take it out and clean it... I will be gluing most stuff.
 
I have a ball valve above the check valve for water changes and didn't glue the two together so I can disconnect!
 
I just picked one up at home depo! Not sure how it could possibly fail or would need to be cleaned but I will clean it bi monthly. Another question though.... how could I stop the backwards siphon when I try to take it out and clean it and how do I take it out and clean it... I will be gluing most stuff.
Make sure it is a flapper or piston type and not one with a spring. They are very noisy.
 
The best option is to make sure your sump is large enough to handle the amount of water that would siphon back when the power is off. Check valves work most of the time, if installed correctly and are kept clean, but not always. Some of them have a tendency to slowly leak down over time, so if you are away from home when the power goes down, the water may slowly bypass the check valve. Which brings us back to the best option of having a large enough sump. Does that check valve you bought have any metal in it?
 
And at an angle so that it will leak slowly into sump. Also I'm ok if there's a slow leak from the valve. I'll always be in town or have someone watching the tank( in in high school) and the whole this is made of plastic and rubber
 
I won't mind if it leaks because It's over my sump

The return is a pressurized line. I'd be worried about it blowing off. Plus that leak will quickly turn to salt creep which will mess with your salinity. If you have a true union ball valve it will come apart super easy even if everything else is glued.
 
The return is a pressurized line. I'd be worried about it blowing off. Plus that leak will quickly turn to salt creep which will mess with your salinity. If you have a true union ball valve it will come apart super easy even if everything else is glued.

Ok I'll try and figure something out. I'll let you all know what I do!
 
How far below the water line are your returns? 3 or 4 inches? take that measurement and multiply it by the length and width of the tank. Divide that number by 231 and you will know how many extra gallons of space you need in your sump/ this way you can skip check valve or siphon break.

example. My return nozzle is 3" below my water line. the length of my tank is 48" and the width is 24".

3 x 48 x 24 = 3,456
3,456/231 = 14.96
round up to 15 and you would need 15 extra gallons of space in your sump to handle the back siphon during maintenance or a power outtage.
 

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