Return plumbing help?

[fishstix]

I have two returns, one on each side of the tank, that I am going to plumb with using a T to split them from the pump.

Several questions
Should I put check valve on each return line or just one right before the T?

If I need a check valve on each return where to I put it, close to the T or closer to the bulkhead?

I also plan to put a 2" Neptune flow sensor on each return, should I put those right before the
bulkhead?

Finally I plan to put a shutoff on each return line again where should those go right after the flow sensor?

I don't really have any room under the stand for these items. The plumbing size is 1 1/4

Thanks

 

[Flippers4pups]

I wouldn’t run check valves as they are prone to failing at some point.

The best solution for when your power stops your return pump is to have your exits at the DT just at water line. There will be some syphon back to the sump when the power stops, but depending on your sump size, should be able to break syphon before too much runs back to the sump.

 

[HOOPDEEZ]

I would consider designing it so you don’t need a check valve at all if possible. I don’t run one, it’s just another point of failure. You can put a pin hole in your loc line facing downward so that it breaks the siphon earlier if you need it. If you have the room for it, 2 return pumps are nice to have, if one fails, it’s not a big deal and no need to T off.

 

[theMeat]

Flow sensor as close to point of exit the better.
Check valve on saltwater tank is useless. Drill a small hole in each return, just below water level, to act as siphon break.
Where you place valve doesn’t really matter, but before the flow sensor.
I know you said no room under stand, but a small piece of soft hose from pump, before transition to hard plumbing will help with vibration, as well makes getting the pump out easier

 

[Amateur Reefer]

following, as I'm about to plumb my 40g breeder.

 

[FishyDP]

If your pump stops you will most likely have water siphon back into your sump. How much water depends on how far your return pipe is under the water level in your display. You can either just cut your return pipe shorter, or drill a hole in the return pipe near the water line in your display, like others have stated. I personally just use a single return line. Less pipes and less elbows make things easier on your pump, and keeps things simple. I do not use check valves, as I agree it is a potential point of failure. Many pumps have flow control, so I do not see the point in using any type of ball valve on my return line. If you use a T the water pressure will self regulate evenly via gravity.. if that makes sense.

 

[fishstix]

Thanks everyone for the feedback so far.
So the sump is 75 gallons so it should be able to handle the display tank drainage.

Here what I am going to do then. Drill the pin hole in the loc-line, and will not use the check valves.

Currently my plan is to go from the pump to T, which goes to my manifold, from the T, it would go up to a Wye as someone suggested in another post, then flow sensor on each return and that will go to each return.

Should I add some unions? Also what about the union ball valves? I was going to add a few of those, I think they are Cepex. (I have already bought the flow sensors and Cepex)

In regards to second pump, cannot afford another one at this time since I am using Abyzz pump

 

[roberthu526]

Drilling holes on return line is also prone to fail. Unless you drill a half inch or larger diameter hole, chances are it will get clogged and fail. I personally use check valves and as long as you clean them twice a year they are pretty reliable.
As to where to place the check valve, I would put on right before the T so you only need to clean one when doing maintenance.

 

[dugthefish]

I like the drilled holes in the return, I went 1/4" and clean it weekly.

 

[theMeat]

I went 1/4” as well. I clean once or twice a year, even though it doesn’t need it.
Check valve can become useless in a few weeks, a few months tops

 

[fishstix]

Thanks everyone for the feedback so far.
So the sump is 75 gallons so it should be able to handle the display tank drainage.

Here what I am going to do then. Drill the pin hole in the loc-line, and will not use the check valves.

Currently my plan is to go from the pump to T, which goes to my manifold, from the T, it would go up to a Wye as someone suggested in another post, then flow sensor on each return and that will go to each return.

Should I add some unions? Also what about the union ball valves? I was going to add a few of those, I think they are Cepex. (I have already bought the flow sensors and Cepex)

In regards to second pump, cannot afford another one at this time since I am using Abyzz pump

Anyone else have any thoughts on these other questions like the valves?

Thanks

 

[theMeat]

Unions are good for ease of taking things apart, putting back together. If you’re going to have valves than union valve is a good way to go. A ball valve is good to turn off/on water flow, but to get more precise control over gph/flow rate, a gate valve is superior

 

[roberthu526]

I went 1/4” as well. I clean once or twice a year, even though it doesn’t need it.
Check valve can become useless in a few weeks, a few months tops

I wonder what kind of check valves you have used. All the ones I installed work fine for 6 months plus without cleaning.