Return pump help

EZMAC114

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So I finished filling the tank and sump last night but when I started up the pump it doesn't consistently pump out water like there is an air bubble in the system. Is this a typical problem and how would I prime the system to purge out any air? Here is my setup
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1404917990.552674.jpg
 
The suction is submerged and the valve on the suction is all the way open so it should not be a problem. Is it the return pump that is inconsistent or are you seeing the level in the display, overflow box or sump going up and down? I'm struggling with your plumbing but how is the oveflow plumbed? If it is the other PVC in the photo I see big issues and flooding in your future.
 
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Well I have a drilled tank with 1" drains on each side and 3/4 returns. I bought this setup used and and just copied what was originally there just used new PVC. And the level in the sump goes up and down...the picture I put up is with the pump off so the sump level is higher than normal. When I turn the pump on the level goes down and I have to slightly close the valve to get it to stay above so no air goes in but it still has an air bubble that I can see and I don't know if there are more that are in the PVC
 
When I put my hand in the tank and up to the return nozzles there isn't always pressure coming out like the water is being blocked in the PVC by an air bubble
 
You might pull the end off the pump and check the impeller. If you don't have a valve on the discharge side of the return pump you need one. The sole purpose of the valve between the sump and the pump is to isolate it for maintenance, it shoule always be 100% open or 100% closed, never throtttle with it as it will create cavitation which is what you are probably experiencing. You always throttle or regulate the discharge side if any adjustment is necessary.

I think your problem is more related to inefficient overflows though, overflows should be gravity with minimal fittings, bends, elbows etc. I would scrap all the PVC and run as short a piece of reinforced flexible vinyl tubing as possible from each drain down to the sump with gradual long sweeping bends if needed to cause as little headloss as possible. You want a smooth laminar, non turbulent flow. The 90 degree elbows, tees, changes of direction and elevation are preventing this.

The other part we don't see is your overflow boxes and standpipes. What do you have for standpipes and are they getting the proper air/water ratio to flow smoothly?
 
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Well that sucks lol. I thought since the guy that had it setup before for like 10 years had it right but I guess not...unless they did things a lot different 10 years ago which is possible.
 
Check out this site. Marc has done a great job explaining sumps and plumbing.
What is a sump? | Melev's Reef

Him and I have a difference of opinion on a few things like drilled holes for siphon breaks and especially returning flow to the sump versus adding additional head to the return pump but all in all it is a very good, easy to understand read.
 
So what you're saying is that I should get rid of the PVC on the drain side but my return setup will be ok?
 
I see good things on the return pump side such as keeping the suction line straight from the sump to the pump and using a short piece of vinyl tubing on boths sides of the pump to eliminate noise from vibrations and to make up for any misalignments in the plumbing so you don't place stress on the pump housing.

If at all possible I would try to upsize the suction line from the sump to the pump at least one size larger than the threaded suction on the pump. If the pump is 3/4" go with 1" and bell or bush it up or if the pump is 1" go with 1.25" or 1.5". This eliminates any restrictions on the suction side of the pump and is recommended by most pump manufacturers. You could really eliminate the ball valve and get a PVC plug which you can reach in the sump and plug the bulkhead with when you need to remove and clean the pump. This would shorten the plumbing while still keeping it in a straight line giving you more room inside the stand for other equipment or storage.

I would install a ball valve on the discharge side of the pump to throttle or fine tune return flows so they match the overflows. It also looks like you have a reduction in size where the vinyl meets the tee above the pump. I would keep it 1" or whatever the larger diameter is until the last possible moment like the bulkheads or nozzles to keep headloss at a minimum and increase flows. My return is 1" and stays that until it reaches the upper back corners where it transitions to two 3/4" Loc Lines so I can keep flows up.
 
Ok that sounds good...I'll look at everything tonight when I get home and see what I can do. Thanks for all of your help!
 
When u say u have to adjust the valve to get the air to not suck in, are u talking about the ball vale going into the pump?? NEVER EVER close the inlet valve on any pump. It will ruin the pump. U need to turn the pump on and keep filling the last chamber until the water starts flowing in your sump. The problem I see is you don't have enough water in your sump.
 
Some photos of the top side plumbing, returns and standpipes would be helpful. The sump appears half full which should not be an issue as long as the overflows can get it back down to the sump as quick as you pump it out. The way it is plumbed now I don't think that is possible.
 
Some photos of the top side plumbing, returns and standpipes would be helpful. The sump appears half full which should not be an issue as long as the overflows can get it back down to the sump as quick as you pump it out. The way it is plumbed now I don't think that is possible.

Ya depending on how his overflow is setup, that sump might end up being full to the top when he shuts the pump off. If it's only half full when it's off, I doubt he's got enough water in there.
 
Yeah the water level might not to high enough and I was thinking I might not have a big enough hole drilled in the top of my drain
 
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