Return Pump Question

BayouBeard

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Hey guys...I've been out of the loop for quite some time, and want to get my tank out of this rut. It's been running for probably 3 years now...but I haven't really devoted much time to improving anything.

It's a 75 gallon tank that's only ever had fish with dry rock...no coral to speak of. I finally got a 4 bulb T5 fixture and want to redo some things to get ready for some coral.

I'm currently running an Eheim 1262 as a return pump with a ball valve to restrict the flow. I'd like to downgrade to either an Eheim 1250 or 1260, but don't know which one would be best. I plan on running it straight with no restriction, as I want to replumb the return section.

If there's any interest in a used Eheim 1262, I'd like to sell it to help fund the 1250 or 1260. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
 
I believe that the current popular idea of tank water turnover is to keep the flow through the sump low and use powerheads to circulate the water rapidly in the display tank. But there are so many different opinions out there. I am using an Eheim 1262 for my 180 gallon SPS dominated tank. I have more than enough flow through the sump (the turnover of x5) with this pump. I have two MP40's to circulate the water in the display tank.
 
I personally try to match my return pump to my skimmer pump. You'd obviously need a bigger pump since the return deals with more head pressure etc but you get the idea.
 
Here is a suggestion, look at DC return pumps and get rid of the ball valve. DC pump are quite and adjustable for the control module:) I had run the Eheim's for years
 
Hey guys...I've been out of the loop for quite some time, and want to get my tank out of this rut. It's been running for probably 3 years now...but I haven't really devoted much time to improving anything.

It's a 75 gallon tank that's only ever had fish with dry rock...no coral to speak of. I finally got a 4 bulb T5 fixture and want to redo some things to get ready for some coral.

I'm currently running an Eheim 1262 as a return pump with a ball valve to restrict the flow. I'd like to downgrade to either an Eheim 1250 or 1260, but don't know which one would be best. I plan on running it straight with no restriction, as I want to replumb the return section.

If there's any interest in a used Eheim 1262, I'd like to sell it to help fund the 1250 or 1260. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Is there anything wrong with the Eheim 1262?
 
I've read the same thing about keeping the flow through the sump low so the skimmer can keep up. Ideally, I'd like to run the pump without a ball valve.

I ran the numbers on the Eheim 1250, and I believe it would run somewhere between 150 to 160 gph through the sump after head loss. That's right at a 2x turnover rate. Would this be enough?

I'll have to take a look at the DC pumps as well. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I've read the same thing about keeping the flow through the sump low so the skimmer can keep up. Ideally, I'd like to run the pump without a ball valve.

I ran the numbers on the Eheim 1250, and I believe it would run somewhere between 150 to 160 gph through the sump after head loss. That's right at a 2x turnover rate. Would this be enough?

I'll have to take a look at the DC pumps as well. Thanks for the suggestion.
I am on the slow flow side, but IMO 2x is a bit too slow.
I would shoot for 3x to 5x for slow flow.
 
I am not sure how many turnover is the best. 2 times per hour means 48 times over one day period. If you have a couple of strong powerheads in the display, it may be okay flow for softies and LPS's.

Eheim 1260 gives you twice the flow, though. I like Eheim pumps. They are reliable and very sturdy. I have 19 years old Eheim canister filter on my fresh water tank. Although I had to replace a gasket on the filter, the pump is still working well. A DC pump is nice, but a high quality one will cost more. An Eheim pump is just as quiet and runs cool. Unless you intend to upgrade your tank to a difference size later on, I don't think that a DC pump offers more advantage over an Eheim pump.
 
I appreciate the input. I looked at the DC pumps, and while I have no experience with them, I have absolutely nothing but great experience with the Eheim.

I've not looked too much into it, but I'm wondering if you can change the impeller on the 1262 to convert it to a 1260? I know they're the same size pump and I believe the current draw is the same as well.

I plan on only keeping softies and LPS, so the flow in the display shouldn't need to be too high.
 
I've not looked too much into it, but I'm wondering if you can change the impeller on the 1262 to convert it to a 1260? I know they're the same size pump and I believe the current draw is the same as well.
I think I saw something somewhere that you could use different impellers in the same motor block.
I actually have quite a bit of flow in my mixed softy tank.


I plan on only keeping softies and LPS, so the flow in the display shouldn't need to be too high.
 
After doing some research, it seems the main difference between the 1260 and 1262, is the intake volute. The volute on the 1260 has smaller openings and thus more restrictive than the 1262. This results in a lower flow rate by reducing the amount of water flowing into the impeller.

I'm going to order the volute for the 1260, and essentially downgrade my 1262 and lower the flow rate. Hopefully this works as intended.
 
The volute on the left is from the 1260, on the right is from the 1262. You can see the difference in the opening size.

images.jpg
 
Good to know.
I like Eheim pumps.

I have a DC pump on my Reef Octopus skimmer, which I retrofitted on the skimmer. I've learned that the needle wheel assembly and impeller on this DC pump need to be kept "very clean". Otherwise, it fails to start up. I had to soak them in vinegar for hours. Never had the same issue with any of my Eheims.
 
I've always understood its much better to restrict the output side of a pump rather than the input side. Restricting the input side is typically not recommended by most pump manufacturers. Why not just leave the ball valve so that you can adjust as needed but have the ability to turn up the flow easily if needed.
 
I would recommend replacing the ball valve with a high quality gate valve which would allow you to adjust the flow with more precision. If money is no object, I recommend checking out the Reef Octopus Varios line. They are DC and come with an adjustable control and can be controlled by an Apex controller if you happen to have one on your system. I have had one in service for about a year and a half with no issue and it is the quietest pump I’ve seen.

-g
 
My three Eheim pumps are silent. Since you already found the solution, I would go with the volute exchange, get rid of the flow restricting valve, and save the money unless you want to fully automate everything with Apex. I'd spent the money to buy more pretty corals.

Speaking of Apex, my base unit failed prematurely - the infant mortality case there. Neptune System replaced my base unit, but it was a hassle that I did not need. Luckily I found it quick and my tank did not suffer. If there were to be a point of failure, "I" should be the one - the only one. I really don't need anther point of failure.
 
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After much debate...I think I'm going to stick with the 1262 and run a valve inline. I've read quite a few threads where people running the 1260 had to reduce the flow as well. If I'm going to run a valve inline just in case...I might as well leave the 1262 as is.
 
I don't know if you need an inline valve with 1260. Its flow is only twice as much as that of 1250.

The only concerns that I can think of at the moment are the drain pipe keeping up with the flow and the amount of micro bubbles.

I don't think there is a real strong basis for the argument of a high or a low flow through sump. Some say that you only need enough flow for your skimmer to process the water, but unless you are feeding the skimmer directly with your drain, this makes no sense. Your skimmer will skim a certain amount of organic matter out of the water per unit time no matter how slow or fast the water is flowing through the sump.
 
After much debate...I think I'm going to stick with the 1262 and run a valve inline. I've read quite a few threads where people running the 1260 had to reduce the flow as well. If I'm going to run a valve inline just in case...I might as well leave the 1262 as is.
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 

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