RFBF's Five Footer

[saltyfilmfolks]

Well, in the mean time , you might want to meter one of the old Light at about the same distance as it was mounted on the tank.

Or just take a best guess , and set the color ratio you like , then set the intensity to about 20- 25k lux.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I have been in communication with SB and they have been receptive to my concerns. I won't bore you with it all, but this last thing I tested clinched the fact that the PCB board is NOT the same as the boards in their fixtures.


I took the PCB board and switched out the board in one of the SB fixtures....so it's the new PCB in an SB Reef fixture (can't blame it on Mars Aqua electronics). With a Lux meter fixed at 11 inches to the face of the fixture .....

..... and the potentiometers turned up to 100%, both channels, I got a maximum of 17,150 Lux with the PCB board in an SB fixture, and a maximum of 42,500 Lux with the original SB Reef fixture. So something is up with the PCB boards....they are not the same as what is in the fixtures!!!

I just need to wait to see what SB wants me to do.

 

[Flippers4pups]

PCB board in Mars fixture or SB fixture?

 

[redfishbluefish]

PCB board in Mars fixture or SB fixture?

I'm sorry, let me clarify (I hope)..... I purchased 2 SB Reef Light fixtures and an SB Reef PCB board. The PCB board is eventually going into a Mars Aqua fixture....simply plugs in, and done....and now it's more or less, an SB fixture (well, sort of). However, when I rec'd the PCB board, it was different from the new fixtures....light was diffusing out the sides of the lenses.

In one of my communications with SB Reef, they commented that the electronics in the Mars Aqua could be causing the differences. So to verify it was in fact a different PCB then what was in the fixtures, I put it in an SB fixture to show that it was, in fact, the PCB that was different. That's why I put the SB PCB into the SB fixture, to show that the new SB PCB is only putting out 17K Lux (regardless of the fixture it's in), while the original SB fixture was putting out 42K Lux. Hopefully that clarifies things.


Now the news.....I heard back from SB....they are shipping out another PCB....hopefully with the "original" lenses.....not the lenses I got.

 

[Flippers4pups]

I'm sorry, let me clarify (I hope)..... I purchased 2 SB Reef Light fixtures and an SB Reef PCB board. The PCB board is eventually going into a Mars Aqua fixture....simply plugs in, and done....and now it's more or less, an SB fixture (well, sort of). However, when I rec'd the PCB board, it was different from the new fixtures....light was diffusing out the sides of the lenses.

In one of my communications with SB Reef, they commented that the electronics in the Mars Aqua could be causing the differences. So to verify it was in fact a different PCB then what was in the fixtures, I put it in an SB fixture to show that it was, in fact, the PCB that was different. That's why I put the SB PCB into the SB fixture, to show that the new SB PCB is only putting out 17K Lux (regardless of the fixture it's in), while the original SB fixture was putting out 42K Lux. Hopefully that clarifies things.


Now the news.....I heard back from SB....they are shipping out another PCB....hopefully with the "original" lenses.....not the lenses I got.

Got it.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'm sorry, let me clarify (I hope)..... I purchased 2 SB Reef Light fixtures and an SB Reef PCB board. The PCB board is eventually going into a Mars Aqua fixture....simply plugs in, and done....and now it's more or less, an SB fixture (well, sort of). However, when I rec'd the PCB board, it was different from the new fixtures....light was diffusing out the sides of the lenses.

In one of my communications with SB Reef, they commented that the electronics in the Mars Aqua could be causing the differences. So to verify it was in fact a different PCB then what was in the fixtures, I put it in an SB fixture to show that it was, in fact, the PCB that was different. That's why I put the SB PCB into the SB fixture, to show that the new SB PCB is only putting out 17K Lux (regardless of the fixture it's in), while the original SB fixture was putting out 42K Lux. Hopefully that clarifies things.


Now the news.....I heard back from SB....they are shipping out another PCB....hopefully with the "original" lenses.....not the lenses I got.

Well.
That’s defiantly lame.

I will say , the difference in lenses shouldn’t (yea , I hate that word) make it drop that much. It’s odd. Not disputing you.
All the no lens folks report 30 40% or so. SB likes to say 20-30. So your drop seems pretty extreme.
Still lame though.

Once you get a color ratio and % you like , I have a cosine lux meter like yours and a seneye. I can give you the exact par. And you can work out the conversion number.


Side note, the relation ship to lux and par. One b+ t5 can be 150 par and 5000 lux. Two b+ t5 will be 300 par and 10,000 lux.

Caviat, one b+ and one c+ could be 340 par and 10,000 lux. (More yellow red less blue)
So the diffence is minor.
With a Radion led , it would get tricky for that reason.

So basically it’s debide by 60 for Led
And 50 for t5.

The real number could be 58- 70 w led or 48- 60 w t5. Depending on the color.
The narrower the spectrum (p+ or all blue led) the higher the conversion number.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Well.
That’s defiantly lame.

I will say , the difference in lenses shouldn’t (yea , I hate that word) make it drop that much. It’s odd. Not disputing you.
All the no lens folks report 30 40% or so. SB likes to say 20-30. So your drop seems pretty extreme.
Still lame though.............

So let me take this lame-brain idea past you. The sides of the lenses "glow" in their respective colors. Actually the blue, green and red lenses are pretty, all aglow in brilliant color all the way around. So my theory is that if the lenses were taken off, the Lux would likely increase, because that light is not being absorbed by the lens sides. I say you are loosing light to the lens sides, which otherwise would be reflected out the face of a normal lens ( or if lenses removed, now down towards the tank.)

Does that make sense?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Since I have time while I wait for a new PCB board to be shipped to me, I thought I'd address the sides of the Mars Aqua overlapping the lenses along that side.

So I carefully cut the silicone holding the glass, and bent back the four little tabs and lifted the glass out. Placed a piece of tape along the outer edges of the "window," traced the five lenses on each side, and using a round file, filed an arc to open up the lenses. A quick shot of flat black paint, and the lenses are no longer partially covered:

 

[NY_Caveman]

Since I have time while I wait for a new PCB board to be shipped to me, I thought I'd address the sides of the Mars Aqua overlapping the lenses along that side.

So I carefully cut the silicone holding the glass, and bent back the four little tabs and lifted the glass out. Placed a piece of tape along the outer edges of the "window," traced the five lenses on each side, and using a round file, filed an arc to open up the lenses. A quick shot of flat black paint, and the lenses are no longer partially covered:

Nice job!

 

[Mrx7899]

Looks good

 

[redfishbluefish]

...............All the no lens folks report 30 40% or so. SB likes to say 20-30. So your drop seems pretty extreme.........

So what you're telling me is that folks (and SB Reef) have noticed a 30 - 40% drop in Lux when comparing lenses verses no lenses?

Here's what I found....roughly 71-72% drop in lux of lenses versus no lenses. Here's how it was done....both channels at 100%, lux meter fixed at 11 inches (having it resting on a container at that height).

I did this twice, with two different boards, recording maximum lux, and here's the lux differences:


..................Lenses on.....Lenses off.....% Drop
Fixture 1......43500............12150...........72
Fixture 2.....42500............12300...........71

 

[redfishbluefish]

So let me take this lame-brain idea past you. The sides of the lenses "glow" in their respective colors. Actually the blue, green and red lenses are pretty, all aglow in brilliant color all the way around. So my theory is that if the lenses were taken off, the Lux would likely increase, because that light is not being absorbed by the lens sides. I say you are loosing light to the lens sides, which otherwise would be reflected out the face of a normal lens ( or if lenses removed, now down towards the tank.)

Does that make sense?

The above was lame-brained! However, I did verify, without doubt, that the lenses supplied on the PCB board is what was causing the very low LUX numbers. I just took the lenses off the SB Reef fixture and put them on the PCB board, and put that into SB fixture. What originally was 17K lux for the PCB board (with sides of the lenses translucent) was now 43.5K lux ......at 11 inches.......very close to the original SB Reef fixture lux. So again, lenses are the problem, the LED's on the board are just fine.

 

[NY_Caveman]

This is a good thread below, but I am linking a specific post where @reeferfoxx posted her PAR numbers after removing. You may have seen this, but thought it might be worth it

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-modified-black-box-thread.283942/page-10#post-4602136

 

[Flippers4pups]

I never measured mine with the lenses on, so don't know what par I was getting back then. Tank at 23" tall and my lights are at 12" in above water line, I'm getting 250 par at my highest rock structure and a 100 par at sand bed. 70% blues, 20% whites.

I could easily lower the fixtures if needed.

Growth has been nothing short of exceptional for all my coral.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

The above was lame-brained! However, I did verify, without doubt, that the lenses supplied on the PCB board is what was causing the very low LUX numbers. I just took the lenses off the SB Reef fixture and put them on the PCB board, and put that into SB fixture. What originally was 17K lux for the PCB board (with sides of the lenses translucent) was now 43.5K lux ......at 11 inches.......very close to the original SB Reef fixture lux. So again, lenses are the problem, the LED's on the board are just fine.

Wow. That just is wrong. Sorry man.

 

[jsker]

;Stig

 

[redfishbluefish]

The continuation of this build thread happens HERE with the purchase and installation of a new tank.

 

[samnaz]

brilliant work. you're a DIY genius! going through your thread has given me so many ideas, some of which I'm not sure I'll be able to implement without your level of skill, but it's worth a try.. or at least worth thinking and dreaming about doing myself. someday.

The sliding ATO cabinet with an open back for quick easy removal... simply amazing!

The power supply bracket you made way back is great. I need something similar but no one sells them, I know you don't either (but I'd totally buy one if you were jsyk). I don't believe I have the tools to make one myself, unfortunately.

thanks for this inspiring thread ;-)

 

[Bleigh]

Meant to post on the goby cave thread

 

[geekengineer]

I stopped by to look lot of things I might use for my 40B build. I wondering if adding to my cabinet on the side like you did would work if I end up needing more space.