Technically speaking sandblasted glass would diffuse.
I wonder how you would do it without having it diffuse too much.
The Phillips CoralCare fixtures use a blasted glass panel. It’s a pretty soft look.
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Technically speaking sandblasted glass would diffuse.
I wonder how you would do it without having it diffuse too much.
Maybe it’s the different source? Like a Light bulb and and led through the same diff will look different. Naturally.What's odd is that most lights I like prismatic diffuser. A couple I like sanded plexi. None of them I liked the camera diffuser after a couple days of looking at it.
We click things with the other end of the spectrum not uv. And our uv is not really uv.Intensity doesn’t matter, if it cuts it cuts. If you wanted that wavelength, it’s now muted or outright gone.
There is a secondary effect that the method of filtering is absorption, so that energy goes into heating the plastic. However we don’t cook things with UV so it’s not going to matter.
Maybe it’s the different source? Like a Light bulb and and led through the same diff will look different. Naturally.
We click things with the other end of the spectrum not uv. And our uv is not really uv.
Intensity does matter as the same wattage led in white has more photons coming out than the same led in “UV”. (Red does this too) because of how they filter the emitter to produce only a single color.
So more difffusion will cut lower photon emitting Leds. Red blue white led have similar output. UV does not. That’s why it’s dim to our eyes. And on a meter.
Ah.That's my guess

Ug. Ok I don’t want to get that deep.so I paraphrased.I'm not sure what you mean by click. However, the bulk of LEDs people talk about in the 440 to 400nm range are violet. If you're using something below this (395, 385) its technically UV-A
LEDs do not have filters. They adjust the materials to control the band gap.
> The color of the light (corresponding to the energy of the photons) is determined by the energy required for electrons to cross the band gap of the semiconductor.
Discrete LEDs usually have a spectral half width of 5-10nm.
White LEDs are phosphor conversion devices - they apply a phosphor to a high energy device (usually 445nm royal blues) to convert light to lower energy / longer wavelengths.
Its dim to our eyes as we just lack the visual ability to see this light. It would be very bright to a mantis shrimp or some insects and birds. I'm not sure what you mean with the rest of your statement, as total radiant energy differs wildly between different LEDs, especially around green and reds. Whites are generally very efficient as we got very good at building AlGaN LEDs in the last twenty years, and the violets are extensions of that band gap material to shorter wavelengths. The violets are lagging for sure in terms of radiant energy, but some of the newer materials are supplanting uses where UV-A fluorescent tubes had been used before (UV curing).
It’s all line with the thread reallySorry OP I will move our conversation to a PM.
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Ug. Ok I don’t want to get that deep.so I paraphrased.
But yea, the bottom line here is photons. A uv is throwing less photons. A uv throws less. Doesn’t matter what or who is reviving em.
In the led I have at home it’s the same wattage as the rest and puts out less photons. Not talk g about theories and other leds on the market. Ours our generally matched (for color mixing and power usage) and uv throws the fewest photons.
So adding diffusion cuts the uv more.
will depend on the diode and design for the most part but if you want "even photon output normally you would need more UV than say royal blues due..Potential to be 40% efficient versus 4% of current standard UV LEDs (Wall Plug Efficiency)
https://www.ledsmagazine.com/articl...lue-led-delivers-81-wall-plug-efficiency.htmlCree royal blue LED delivers 81% wall plug efficiency (UPDATED)
depending.. as long as diodes aren't "spec'ed" lower than 400Well SORT of technically correct.. UV diodes have lower efficiencies than other diodes but that is not a static thing..
will depend on the diode and design for the most part but if you want "even photon output normally you would need more UV than say royal blues due
to diode design deficiencies..
https://innovate.osu.edu/available_...-Efficiency-UltraViolet-Light-Emitting-Diodes
https://www.ledsmagazine.com/articl...lue-led-delivers-81-wall-plug-efficiency.html
Well, diffusion cuts all light a little.. Believe the Coral-life and the Radion filters are both in the 25% range.
That's not "the" issue.
Most common plastics cut off all photons below 400nm to some degree larger than the normal overall 10%
cut..
Charts explain it all
IF you want the cheapest and least absorptive of <400nm then Acrylic -G (plex G) is the best plastic for the job
IF you have wavelengths below say.. 395nm.. for the sake of argument.
You lose some at 400 prob none at 410 w/ any "inferior" plastics..
Decreasing the thickness also increases the transmission level
This is all simple physics
want to avoid all this discussion use float glass and fog it w/ hydrofluoric acid (etching glass, HF acid is quite dangerous btw)

Well, diffusion cuts all light a little.. Believe the Coral-life and the Radion filters are both in the 25% range.
That's not "the" issue.
Most common plastics cut off all photons below 400nm to some degree larger than the normal overall 10%
cut..
Charts explain it all
IF you want the cheapest and least absorptive of <400nm then Acrylic -G (plex G) is the best plastic for the job
IF you have wavelengths below say.. 395nm.. for the sake of argument.
You lose some at 400 prob none at 410 w/ any "inferior" plastics..
Decreasing the thickness also increases the transmission level
This is all simple physics
want to avoid all this discussion use float glass and fog it w/ hydrofluoric acid (etching glass, HF acid is quite dangerous btw)
![]()
UF-4 is also tolerable..depending.. as long as diodes aren't "spec'ed" lower than 400
395 peaks at 395 and has half below and half above this...
Thanks for finding the small lot of likely usable stuff.... I always just find huge sheets...

400 or 800 grit. Quite simple.All good info. Please feel free to discuss.
@saltyfilmfolks could you explain the process of using sand paper on the acrylic? What grit do I use and how do I know when I have done it enough?
No.I guess for my purposes on Radion Gen 3s should I be concerned with losing some or all sub 400 wavelength?
So, simply put. Anything clear is a good diffuser and impacts light insignificantly for our needs.Well SORT of technically correct.. UV diodes have lower efficiencies than other diodes but that is not a static thing..
will depend on the diode and design for the most part but if you want "even photon output normally you would need more UV than say royal blues due
to diode design deficiencies..
https://innovate.osu.edu/available_...-Efficiency-UltraViolet-Light-Emitting-Diodes
https://www.ledsmagazine.com/articl...lue-led-delivers-81-wall-plug-efficiency.html
Well, diffusion cuts all light a little.. Believe the Coral-life and the Radion filters are both in the 25% range.
That's not "the" issue.
Most common plastics cut off all photons below 400nm to some degree larger than the normal overall 10%
cut..
Charts explain it all
IF you want the cheapest and least absorptive of <400nm then Acrylic -G (plex G) is the best plastic for the job
IF you have wavelengths below say.. 395nm.. for the sake of argument.
You lose some at 400 prob none at 410 w/ any "inferior" plastics..
Decreasing the thickness also increases the transmission level
This is all simple physics
want to avoid all this discussion use float glass and fog it w/ hydrofluoric acid (etching glass, HF acid is quite dangerous btw)
![]()
UF-4 is also tolerable..depending.. as long as diodes aren't "spec'ed" lower than 400
395 peaks at 395 and has half below and half above this...
I have rolls of the stuff.Thanks for finding the small lot of likely usable stuff.... I always just find huge sheets...
could be thinner.. but now I'm just begging..![]()


