Right edge of sump not touching floor

[BigJohnny]

I just realized that the right edge of my sump is not touching the bottom of the stand by a few mms. Basically the whole sump is flat on the stand except for the right half of the return chamber. Is this OK since the tank is only about half full? Is this normal since most of the water is on the opposite side of the sump? Is this more likely uneven trim than bending of the sump? The water seems level. Starting to freak out a bit.....

 

[BigJohnny]

I know this wouldn't be OK with a full aquarium but this is my first sump so I don't know if the same thing applies when it's only about half full. I am almost not sure that putting a piece of ply under there and shimming that would solve the issue since the floor of the stand was level and flat last time I checked. I would likely have to make another sump.

 

[BigJohnny]

Does anyone have a sump sitting like this? Or some variation of this?

 

[Maritimer]

Being it's a sump, you're right about being better off - but you're also right about this not being an ideal situation.

Are you certain that the floor of the stand is completely flat?

You could probably use some shim material along that edge to give yourself a bit of extra support there.

Other members of the #reefsquad may be able to offer suggestions as well.

~Bruce

 

[BigJohnny]

Being it's a sump, you're right about being better off - but you're also right about this not being an ideal situation.

Are you certain that the floor of the stand is completely flat?

You could probably use some shim material along that edge to give yourself a bit of extra support there.

Other members of the #reefsquad may be able to offer suggestions as well.

~Bruce

Thanks for commenting bruce. It was flat when I made it, and it's 3/4" ply supported by 2x4s, which are actually doubled up under the edges. I always thought shimming under the aquarium was a no no? I guess I would have to also drain the sump and do that then fill it back up so that it was actually supporting the weight.

What would you do? I might just build another sump but I'd really rather not obviously......

 

[Flippers4pups]

Chances are the stand may be level, but the floor to it isn't. A slight variance that's okay. If that's the case, I would cut a piece of plywood the foot print size of the sump and place it under it. Then shim the plywood under the sump.

Problely not a big deal now, but could be an issue long term. Better safe than sorry.

 

[BigJohnny]

Chances are the stand may be level, but the floor to it isn't. A slight variance that's okay. If that's the case, I would cut a piece of plywood the foot print size of the sump and place it under it. Then shim the plywood under the sump.

Problely not a big deal now, but could be an issue long term. Better safe than sorry.

But isn't this different than not being level? If it was only not level it would still touch on all 4 sides, the water would just be unlevel in the tank. Also, what thickness ply would be required?

Thanks!

 

[Flippers4pups]

The sump looks to be touching on the left side and middle, but not on the right side. For what reason it's not there, deviation in the floor not being level/flat at that spot, don't know. Take a metal ruler or a carpenter square and lay it edge wise on the sump floor to find the deviation.

1/2" plywood would suffice as a base and wood or plastic shims under the plywood to make up for the deviation.

 

[jsker]

Plastic shims are you friend. As much as we seal the wood that comes in contact with our reef equipment, there will be movement. The plastic shims will give you a solid fix for that corner.

 

[BigJohnny]

Here is a follow up question- what if I drain and pull out the sump, only to determine the floor of the stand is level and flat but the bottom rim of the tank is not. I have seen that before. In yalls opinion would I need to build a new sump?

Also, if I leave as is and it's not the trim but just the floor, do you think being half full is enough weight to pull apart the seams if only the right edge is lifted (only about 5-7 inches of water there)?

 

[Shaddow_wolf169]

You will be fine I wouldn't worry to much you tank is not close to being full most of the weight is on the other side.

 

[ludnix]

I am betting the tank is flat and the stand bottom is not. Regardless I would just do what others have said and use composite shims to support that corner. Those braced tanks with plastic trim don't require quite as much even and perfect support as rimless tanks.

 

[MarsRover]

Okay okay okay.... glad no one has started to panic....

Here is a follow up question- what if I drain and pull out the sump, only to determine the floor of the stand is level and flat but the bottom rim of the tank is not. I have seen that before. In yalls opinion would I need to build a new sump?

Also, if I leave as is and it's not the trim but just the floor, do you think being half full is enough weight to pull apart the seams if only the right edge is lifted (only about 5-7 inches of water there)?

You don't have to pull the sump out to do this. You can just place a level in front of your tank and see if thats flat. But read below before you do.....

I am betting the tank is flat and the stand bottom is not. Regardless I would just do what others have said and use composite shims to support that corner. Those braced tanks with plastic trim don't require quite as much even and perfect support as rimless tanks.

The major concern here with a tank that has a moment/torque on it is the shear strength of your glass (and it's shear strain carrying capacity). The silicone that carries the loads to the glass thankfully absorbs some of this very well, and even better, the plastic trim on your tank serves even more so. If this was a rimless, then i'd be concerned. Being that it is the tempered commercial glass, you're fine...

If you don't plan to add rock, more water, more equipment to your tank, you should be fine as is. If you plan to add things, you'll probably still be fine.... but... if you want some additional security, go get a plastic/composite shim from the hardware store and put it under that corner and tap it in until snug. Do not drain your sump. Not necessary and will likely make it harder since you sump looks relatively small.

I agree that the most likely culprit is your stand, not the tank. Tank manufacturers have their process down solid to make true, square, reliable tanks....assuming you bought a decent manufacturers brand. Additionally, the safety factor they have on commercially built (i.e. non custom) tanks is insane.

You can easily see what is out of plumb... just grab a level, put it on the stand-floor right in front of your tank. Then put that level on the top black rim of your tank.

If it was me, i would leave everything the way it is, and go get a composite shim from the hardware store. Bring it home, tap the pointy end in under the sump until it is relatively snug. Cut off the extra sticking out and be done with it.

If in the future you ever drain your sump, i recommend getting some foam and putting that under your entire sump. That will self level for you.

I actually have my 40breeder sump suspended by the 4 corners resting on top of egg crate....and my sump is almost full to the top. Highest stresses are naturally going to be dead center and that is where the bulk of my water is too.

Don't stress.

 

[BigJohnny]

You will be fine I wouldn't worry to much you tank is not close to being full most of the weight is on the other side.

Hope so! Trying not to worry [emoji27]

 

[BigJohnny]

Okay okay okay.... glad no one has started to panic....



You don't have to pull the sump out to do this. You can just place a level in front of your tank and see if thats flat. But read below before you do.....




The major concern here with a tank that has a moment/torque on it is the shear strength of your glass (and it's shear strain carrying capacity). The silicone that carries the loads to the glass thankfully absorbs some of this very well, and even better, the plastic trim on your tank serves even more so. If this was a rimless, then i'd be concerned. Being that it is the tempered commercial glass, you're fine...

If you don't plan to add rock, more water, more equipment to your tank, you should be fine as is. If you plan to add things, you'll probably still be fine.... but... if you want some additional security, go get a plastic/composite shim from the hardware store and put it under that corner and tap it in until snug. Do not drain your sump. Not necessary and will likely make it harder since you sump looks relatively small.

I agree that the most likely culprit is your stand, not the tank. Tank manufacturers have their process down solid to make true, square, reliable tanks....assuming you bought a decent manufacturers brand. Additionally, the safety factor they have on commercially built (i.e. non custom) tanks is insane.

You can easily see what is out of plumb... just grab a level, put it on the stand-floor right in front of your tank. Then put that level on the top black rim of your tank.

If it was me, i would leave everything the way it is, and go get a composite shim from the hardware store. Bring it home, tap the pointy end in under the sump until it is relatively snug. Cut off the extra sticking out and be done with it.

If in the future you ever drain your sump, i recommend getting some foam and putting that under your entire sump. That will self level for you.

I actually have my 40breeder sump suspended by the 4 corners resting on top of egg crate....and my sump is almost full to the top. Highest stresses are naturally going to be dead center and that is where the bulk of my water is too.

Don't stress.

I actually don't have enough room for a level in front of the tank unfortunately so I would have to drain and remove it to check if it's flat. I have seen several tanks with uneven trim, from aqueon and tetra, I know cuz I checked them with a straight edge and returned them in place of others for a previous build. This is an aqueon 40b. I did end up just putting shims on the two right corners and called it a day. The only extra equipment I've added is my skimmer to the left chamber and 5l of siporax into the refugium section.

I see that your sump is supported by the four corners, which actually is all that's really necessary for a trimmed glass tank. I was more concerned about trying to level it with only shims on the corners while it's in the stand (no room) or that the trim was uneven and there would still be uneven pressure. The main reason I'm not freaking out is because it's just half full. Just curious, why is your sump on egg crate like that? Btw, thanks for your assurance.

 

[MarsRover]

I actually don't have enough room for a level in front of the tank unfortunately so I would have to drain and remove it to check if it's flat. I have seen several tanks with uneven trim, from aqueon and tetra, I know cuz I checked them with a straight edge and returned them in place of others for a previous build. This is an aqueon 40b. I did end up just putting shims on the two right corners and called it a day. The only extra equipment I've added is my skimmer to the left chamber and 5l of siporax into the refugium section.

I see that your sump is supported by the four corners, which actually is all that's really necessary for a trimmed glass tank. I was more concerned about trying to level it with only shims on the corners while it's in the stand (no room) or that the trim was uneven and there would still be uneven pressure. The main reason I'm not freaking out is because it's just half full. Just curious, why is your sump on egg crate like that? Btw, thanks for your assurance.

I put it up on egg crate because I plan to have the base of my stand as an extra-emergency drain pan, if for whatever extraordinary reason the sump overflows, I want to have some margin before it goes all
Over the house. I finally got the materials to make the base of my stand into a pan so check out my build thread in the next week or two to see it. The egg crate serves two fold, elevates the sump out of the pan to allow more water volume and it also allows the area under the sump to dry out after any overflow.