Rip Clean...on a 300g?

[Jeffcb]

Thank you for the advice! Attacking this project will require quite a bit of planning and mental preparation and TIME.

It will and it will be rewarding when done. You can do it!

 

[ecrumpler]

How long have you been dealing with this? My suggestion would be to add a filter roller and ATS if you don't have one. Add a lot more cleanup crew if need be. You can beat this without having to do crazy stuff, and doing it through ways that allow a natural balance within your ecosystem.

This is my sentiment as well. I suspect a biological imbalance. I would take small, measured steps and remain patient. https://www.algaebarn.com/shop/uncategorized/pns-substrate-sauce/ This product helped me a lot with beating an 8 month battle with problem algae, along with manual removal daily and the implementation of a UV early on.

 

[NanJ]

How long have you been dealing with this? My suggestion would be to add a filter roller and ATS if you don't have one. Add a lot more cleanup crew if need be. You can beat this without having to do crazy stuff, and doing it through ways that allow a natural balance within your ecosystem.

The algae started here and there around September. The sump has four 200 micron socks for large particle filtration but I don't know if a filter roller would be a big improvement or not. I know BRS likes filter rollers. The sump has a large chamber for a refugium. We've had good success with chaeto and Gracilaria - about 3-4 gallons worth.

Based on a previous post in this thread I have contacted Reef Cleaners to see about adding a robust CUC. Based on the number recommended on his website, we definitely did not have enough - we have the variety, just not the quantity.

I hope you are right about beating this without a rip clean!

 

[Midrats]

The tank is a little over 3 years old. We have not tried a bacterial supplement such as Vibrant by itself because the system has a refugium with chaeto. (Supposedly Vibrant has a negative impact on macro algae.) Back in November we tried back-to-back fluconazole treatments which can damage chaeto so, with the chaeto removed, we added Vibrant. I admit, though, I did not add it for more than about 3 weeks. We had concern that eliminating micro-type algae might starve the CUC.

Vibrant isn't bacterial as advertised, it's an algaecide. If you decide to go that route just buy Algaefix and save some money.

 

[ecrumpler]

Mexican Turbos work really well for me.

 

[Arego]

I zip tie different strength brushes to a wood dowel and literally scrub anything clear off the rock while it's still in the tank. No need to get wet, I'm very serious about no bare skin in the tank.

You would be really surprised how clean you can get rocks like this. I don't even bother take anything apart.

 

[Jeffcb]

I think Rip Clean is to much work. However Rip Clean would be the quickest way to irradiate the problem.

What ever you decide to do, after you have accomplished you goal. The most important thing is to figure out how to keep it from happening again. Good luck.

 

[i_am_mclovin]

The algae started here and there around September. The sump has four 200 micron socks for large particle filtration but I don't know if a filter roller would be a big improvement or not. I know BRS likes filter rollers. The sump has a large chamber for a refugium. We've had good success with chaeto and Gracilaria - about 3-4 gallons worth.

Based on a previous post in this thread I have contacted Reef Cleaners to see about adding a robust CUC. Based on the number recommended on his website, we definitely did not have enough - we have the variety, just not the quantity.

I hope you are right about beating this without a rip clean!

In my experience, macros are sometimes unable to "out compete" nuisance algaes like GHA etc. An ATS can because it grows the "nuisance algaes" in the ATS, and uses a different photoperiod (much longer and overnight) to do so. If you are religiously cleaning filter socks and it never overflows from dirty socks, then you don't need the roller. I use an in sump ATS from icecap for what it's worth, and I have been using an ATS on all of my systems for years now instead of a macro fuge (including my commercial coral system back when I had the business).

 

[DeniseAndy]

Do not expect overnight work of an algae scrubbing system. I beat my briopsis many years ago with an algae scrubber and regular manual removal. Before all the other stuff came out in open (fluconozole, vibrant, etc).
Hair algae it can be done also. It was just not working on my system and I got sick of it so I rip cleaned the 210g. Now, my system is great. The algae scrubber keeps algae in check from the main display and it is great at keeping pH up overnight and exporting nutrients.

 

[i_am_mclovin]

Do not expect overnight work of an algae scrubbing system. I beat my briopsis many years ago with an algae scrubber and regular manual removal. Before all the other stuff came out in open (fluconozole, vibrant, etc).
Hair algae it can be done also. It was just not working on my system and I got sick of it so I rip cleaned the 210g. Now, my system is great. The algae scrubber keeps algae in check from the main display and it is great at keeping pH up overnight and exporting nutrients.

Yes this 100%. Nothing good in this hobby happens fast.

 

[Ultra Aquatics]

Vibrant isn't bacterial as advertised, it's an algaecide. If you decide to go that route just buy Algaefix and save some money.

This is probably the best way. For hair algae my first defense is herbivores and Mexican turbos. If they can’t knock it back then it’s AlgaeFix every other day, it will eventually turn white and die. I’ve done this even on fully stocked SPS tanks with no Issue.

 

[NanJ]

In my experience, macros are sometimes unable to "out compete" nuisance algaes like GHA etc. An ATS can because it grows the "nuisance algaes" in the ATS, and uses a different photoperiod (much longer and overnight) to do so. If you are religiously cleaning filter socks and it never overflows from dirty socks, then you don't need the roller. I use an in sump ATS from icecap for what it's worth, and I have been using an ATS on all of my systems for years now instead of a macro fuge (including my commercial coral system back when I had the business).

We are religious about the socks, replacing as soon as the first one fills up.

Our fuge has a Kessil H380 on it which runs about 14 hours a day. We have been happy with the growth of the macro algae. Of course, the nuisance algae is growing in there, too.

The ATS is something to think about. Successful experience with a commercial system is a great recommendation.

 

[ReefGeezer]

I've read through the thread. Here's my $.02:

1) A "rip-clean" is a reset and, wow, would be a lot of unnecessary work;
1a) The algae will simply grow back after the rip-clean unless something changes
2) At this point, the algae is using the available ammonia rather than nitrate;
3) Because it is using ammonia, limiting nitrates to slow or stop its growth isn't helpful;
3a) Carbon dosing is a good method to limit available ammonia and nitrate;
4) Most algae eaters won't touch algae that is very long;
4a) Dolabella Sea Hares love long algae and eat it quickly;
5) Vibrant and Reef Flux Rx will slow or even get rid of the algae over time;
5a) They have negative effects also; and
6) An ATS can be great but it might be hard to get one built up enough to outcompete established hair algae that is co-located with its nutrient source (the fish),

If you have a decent skimmer and some available phosphate, I would:
1) Start carbon dosing;
2) Unleash a heard of Sea Hares (maybe four or five) and add more CUC members
3) Use stiff brushes to manually remove the algae all the way to the rock where possible;
4) Turn out the lights; and
5) Wait

 

[Jimmyneptune]

Vibrant isn't bacterial as advertised, it's an algaecide. If you decide to go that route just buy Algaefix and save some money.

+1 on Algaefix. You will be able to do manual removal a lot easier after a few doses of using this product.

 

[IKD]

I've read through the thread. Here's my $.02:

1) A "rip-clean" is a reset and, wow, would be a lot of unnecessary work;
1a) The algae will simply grow back after the rip-clean unless something changes
2) At this point, the algae is using the available ammonia rather than nitrate;
3) Because it is using ammonia, limiting nitrates to slow or stop its growth isn't helpful;
3a) Carbon dosing is a good method to limit available ammonia and nitrate;
4) Most algae eaters won't touch algae that is very long;
4a) Dolabella Sea Hares love long algae and eat it quickly;
5) Vibrant and Reef Flux Rx will slow or even get rid of the algae over time;
5a) They have negative effects also; and
6) An ATS can be great but it might be hard to get one built up enough to outcompete established hair algae that is co-located with its nutrient source (the fish),

If you have a decent skimmer and some available phosphate, I would:
1) Start carbon dosing;
2) Unleash a heard of Sea Hares (maybe four or five) and add more CUC members
3) Use stiff brushes to manually remove the algae all the way to the rock where possible;
4) Turn out the lights; and
5) Wait

Agree, with bullet 1a especially. It’s important to know the source of what is growing the algae so you don’t have the same problem. What is your phosphate, lighting, nitrate situation?

 

[NanJ]

I've read through the thread. Here's my $.02:

1) A "rip-clean" is a reset and, wow, would be a lot of unnecessary work;
1a) The algae will simply grow back after the rip-clean unless something changes
2) At this point, the algae is using the available ammonia rather than nitrate;
3) Because it is using ammonia, limiting nitrates to slow or stop its growth isn't helpful;
3a) Carbon dosing is a good method to limit available ammonia and nitrate;
4) Most algae eaters won't touch algae that is very long;
4a) Dolabella Sea Hares love long algae and eat it quickly;
5) Vibrant and Reef Flux Rx will slow or even get rid of the algae over time;
5a) They have negative effects also; and
6) An ATS can be great but it might be hard to get one built up enough to outcompete established hair algae that is co-located with its nutrient source (the fish),

If you have a decent skimmer and some available phosphate, I would:
1) Start carbon dosing;
2) Unleash a heard of Sea Hares (maybe four or five) and add more CUC members
3) Use stiff brushes to manually remove the algae all the way to the rock where possible;
4) Turn out the lights; and
5) Wait

I appreciate the thorough read and reply. We put 2 sea hares in the tank about 3 months ago but haven't seen them since the first few days. I'll see if our LFS can get Dolabella - so many critters are out of stock these days.

Weekly we had been scrubbing the rocks, blowing detritus off the rocks and siphoning off loose algae. This was at least keeping the algae manageable. Then my husband had a health issue pop up and during the weeks of dealing with that the algae bloomed.

We have a lot of coral. Will turning off the lights harm them? Seems it would? The lights are Kessel AP700s with no red or green spectrum added.

Hmmm...carbon dosing. I've seen lots of references about it in the literature but have never considered it. I'll do some reading. Using Hanna ULR phosphate checker weekly, the tank has been 0.01 - 0.10 ppm since December. In the fall it was more 0.2-0.3 ppm.

Waiting.....probably the hardest thing!

Quick video of tank today:

 

[DeniseAndy]

Seeing the tank, I would proceed with the manual pull, heavy clean up crew, and add an algae scrubber. I do not think just cheato will do it. You need to outcompete that hair with hair.

I have not used the manufactured remedies. I cannot speak to that.

The tank looks pretty healthy otherwise.

 

[ReefGeezer]

I appreciate the thorough read and reply. We put 2 sea hares in the tank about 3 months ago but haven't seen them since the first few days. I'll see if our LFS can get Dolabella - so many critters are out of stock these days.

Weekly we had been scrubbing the rocks, blowing detritus off the rocks and siphoning off loose algae. This was at least keeping the algae manageable. Then my husband had a health issue pop up and during the weeks of dealing with that the algae bloomed.

We have a lot of coral. Will turning off the lights harm them? Seems it would? The lights are Kessel AP700s with no red or green spectrum added.

Hmmm...carbon dosing. I've seen lots of references about it in the literature but have never considered it. I'll do some reading. Using Hanna ULR phosphate checker weekly, the tank has been 0.01 - 0.10 ppm since December. In the fall it was more 0.2-0.3 ppm.

Waiting.....probably the hardest thing!

Quick video of tank today:

Nice tank. The algae isn't that bad. It looks like it is growing out of the crevices in the rock. Dolabella Sea Hares are the only ones I'd use. They are almost always available via the web. They aren't hard to see. They're huge and ugly! I've used them in two different tanks. Just one cleaned up a 75 gallon I had going that had algae worse than yours.

The light being off won't hurt the corals for short periods. I'd limit it to a few days. You are just trying to slow the algae growth while the carbon dosing kicks in.

So, remember that along with ammonia or nitrate, carbon dosing also uses a little phosphate. It simply won't work phosphate drops to 0. If it gets low, you can add some. A good skimmer is required, but it doesn't have to be top shelf. Set it to skim kind of wet. Finally, alkalinity is a concern. It seems that NSW alkalinity are safer for the corals when carbon dosing.

Here's a link to information about carbon dosing. You'll recognize the author. http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index...ar-dosing-methodology-for-the-marine-aquarium

 

[Acros]

Save for the algae; your corals look really healthy and happy.

 

[Kenneth Wingerter]

This is my sentiment as well. I suspect a biological imbalance. I would take small, measured steps and remain patient. https://www.algaebarn.com/shop/uncategorized/pns-substrate-sauce/ This product helped me a lot with beating an 8 month battle with problem algae, along with manual removal daily and the implementation of a UV early on.

Very cool, do you know what type(s) of algae it was?