RO as ATO

[jboone82590]

Who uses there RODI as there auto top off.
If so what float valve do you use.
Anyone have anything bad to say about it?
I know it can flood the tank and house but im talking other stuff.

 

[Velcro]

I don't but if I did I would have several layers of redundancy:

Strong float valve
Float switches (high/low sump levels)
Solonoid valve on the water line from the RO programmed to only open for x amount of time every x minutes

You get my drift.

 

[Crimsonvice]

I use have used a float valve from Buckeyehydro.com with an auto shutoff. I now am using the ATK with apex silinoid.

 

[Crimsonvice]

I use have used a float valve from Buckeyehydro.com with an auto shutoff. I now am using the ATK with apex silinoid.

 

[cmcoker]

Besides the flood/turning your tank to freshwater risk.. the frequent cycling will allow TDS creep to eat up your di resin much faster.

 

[scottedontknow]

Besides the flood/turning your tank to freshwater risk.. the frequent cycling will allow TDS creep to eat up your di resin much faster.

This!!! You'll fly through di resin

 

[jboone82590]

So if i do hook it up and run the solonids to my apex to only turn on say 2 to 3 times a day for a few min. Then what?
Still the same answers?
I really dont care about the di resin unless im changeing it every week. If i have to change it once a month or more then i would be ok with it.
I want to get rid of my RO tank under my DT to make more room for dosing and stuff like that.
What does everyone thing about that?

 

[jboone82590]

I use have used a float valve from Buckeyehydro.com with an auto shutoff. I now am using the ATK with apex silinoid.

So you do use youre RO unit as youre top off?

 

[cmcoker]

So if i do hook it up and run the solonids to my apex to only turn on say 2 to 3 times a day for a few min. Then what?
Still the same answers?
I really dont care about the di resin unless im changeing it every week. If i have to change it once a month or more then i would be ok with it.
I want to get rid of my RO tank under my DT to make more room for dosing and stuff like that.
What does everyone thing about that?

I flush my rodi unit at least 2 minutes to get the TDS from 150ish down to 11, over the next couple minutes it drops to 5 usually, all that high TDS water is going to go in the di resin every time you start it up. So depending how often it's set to run, I could see it burning through a canister in less than a month, but there's a lot of variables....

I would strongly advise against it for the flood risk regardless. If you can do a run of waterline to connect to your rodi to the sump, then couldn't you just connect to a remote ATO reservoir placed somewhere around the house to open up that space under the tank?
I have also seen some guys use a decorative vase next to the tank as a reservoir. I have hid one in a storage ottoman on another setup as well.
There's other (safer) options to direct plumbing your rodi in...

 

[cypho]

My RO is plumbed directly into the tank.

I use a mechanical float valve (from BRS) + a solenoid and 2 float switches(from BRS). To flood I would have to experience a 3-way failure.

In the event of that 3-way failure, a flowmeter (water flowing through the topoff line when it should not be) and a conductivity sensor (unexpected salinity drop in the sump) will both detect the error and sound an alarm. So to flood the tank and not know about it right away it would take a 5 way failure.

To prevent the RO filter cycling on/off multiple times per day, I store the RO water in a 14 gallon pressure tank. The RO filter is programmed not to turn itself on until the tank is half empty. I evaporate about 1 gallon per day, so the RO filter only runs once a week or so. I use a pressure sensor, but you could just have a simple once-a-week timer. Additionally the RO filter is programmed to dump the pre-di water down the drain until the TDS of the output settles down.

 

[jboone82590]

I flush my rodi unit at least 2 minutes to get the TDS from 150ish down to 11, over the next couple minutes it drops to 5 usually, all that high TDS water is going to go in the di resin every time you start it up. So depending how often it's set to run, I could see it burning through a canister in less than a month, but there's a lot of variables....

I would strongly advise against it for the flood risk regardless. If you can do a run of waterline to connect to your rodi to the sump, then couldn't you just connect to a remote ATO reservoir placed somewhere around the house to open up that space under the tank?
I have also seen some guys use a decorative vase next to the tank as a reservoir. I have hid one in a storage ottoman on another setup as well.
There's other (safer) options to direct plumbing your rodi in...

I am really considering not doing it but i cant put anything in the living room next to the tank for the RO. I could put it where i habe the RO unit i would just habe to get creative. I would also have to do 2 ATOs one for each tank.

 

[jboone82590]

My RO is plumbed directly into the tank.

I use a mechanical float valve (from BRS) + a solenoid and 2 float switches(from BRS). To flood I would have to experience a 3-way failure.

In the event of that 3-way failure, a flowmeter (water flowing through the topoff line when it should not be) and a conductivity sensor (unexpected salinity drop in the sump) will both detect the error and sound an alarm. So to flood the tank and not know about it right away it would take a 5 way failure.

To prevent the RO filter cycling on/off multiple times per day, I store the RO water in a 14 gallon pressure tank. The RO filter is programmed not to turn itself on until the tank is half empty. I evaporate about 1 gallon per day, so the RO filter only runs once a week or so. I use a pressure sensor, but you could just have a simple once-a-week timer. Additionally the RO filter is programmed to dump the pre-di water down the drain until the TDS of the output settles down.

Where did you get the pressure tank?
About what did it cost u to do all this?
I need to do it for 2 tanks also.
How much DI do you go threw?

 

[jboone82590]

My RO is plumbed directly into the tank.

I use a mechanical float valve (from BRS) + a solenoid and 2 float switches(from BRS). To flood I would have to experience a 3-way failure.

In the event of that 3-way failure, a flowmeter (water flowing through the topoff line when it should not be) and a conductivity sensor (unexpected salinity drop in the sump) will both detect the error and sound an alarm. So to flood the tank and not know about it right away it would take a 5 way failure.

To prevent the RO filter cycling on/off multiple times per day, I store the RO water in a 14 gallon pressure tank. The RO filter is programmed not to turn itself on until the tank is half empty. I evaporate about 1 gallon per day, so the RO filter only runs once a week or so. I use a pressure sensor, but you could just have a simple once-a-week timer. Additionally the RO filter is programmed to dump the pre-di water down the drain until the TDS of the output settles down.

And i will definitely need to see youre APEX codding if thats ok lol

 

[cypho]

And i will definitely need to see youre APEX codding if thats ok lol

I think most of what I described above could be done with an Apex, but I don't use Apex so my code would not help you.

My controller is DIY. Here is more info about my RODI controller - http://www.tcmas.org/forums/threads/its-alive-rodi-monitor-controller.62305/

Where did you get the pressure tank?
About what did it cost u to do all this?
I need to do it for 2 tanks also.
How much DI do you go threw?

I also use RODI water for water changes (about 1 gallon per day) and the DI resin lasts several months.

• I am using this pressure tank. http://a.co/jefoMS7 Smaller tanks like this one, are more common - you could most likely pick on up at your local hardware store. Or BRS
• Plus you'll need a solenoid to turn the RO filter on/off. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-ato-rodi-solenoid-autoaqua.html (this is not the model I am using, but this one should work)
  
  
• Not required, but using a permeate pump will greatly improve efficiency when using a pressure tank. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquatec-permeate-pump-erp-1000.html
• Also not required, but some nice upgrades include auto-flush (to extend main membrane health) and dump pre-DI water until the TDS drops. Each of those will add a solenoid.

So $50 to $200 in upgrades to the RODI.

And then for the ATO:

• Float valve - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/adjustable-ro-float-valve.html
• Float switch - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/float-switch-horizontal-mount.html
• Solenoid - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-ato-rodi-solenoid-autoaqua.html (this is not the model I am using, but this one should work)

1 valve + 1 solenoid + 2 switches = $68 per tank

As sensors to detect failure, Apex has a leak detectors, salinity/conductivity sensor and flowmeter. You may already have some or all of those parts.

 

[jboone82590]

I think most of what I described above could be done with an Apex, but I don't use Apex so my code would not help you.

My controller is DIY. Here is more info about my RODI controller - http://www.tcmas.org/forums/threads/its-alive-rodi-monitor-controller.62305/



I also use RODI water for water changes (about 1 gallon per day) and the DI resin lasts several months.

• I am using this pressure tank. http://a.co/jefoMS7 Smaller tanks like this one, are more common - you could most likely pick on up at your local hardware store. Or BRS
• Plus you'll need a solenoid to turn the RO filter on/off. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-ato-rodi-solenoid-autoaqua.html (this is not the model I am using, but this one should work)
  
  
• Not required, but using a permeate pump will greatly improve efficiency when using a pressure tank. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquatec-permeate-pump-erp-1000.html
• Also not required, but some nice upgrades include auto-flush (to extend main membrane health) and dump pre-DI water until the TDS drops. Each of those will add a solenoid.

So $50 to $200 in upgrades to the RODI.

And then for the ATO:

• Float valve - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/adjustable-ro-float-valve.html
• Float switch - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/float-switch-horizontal-mount.html
• Solenoid - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-ato-rodi-solenoid-autoaqua.html (this is not the model I am using, but this one should work)

1 valve + 1 solenoid + 2 switches = $68 per tank

As sensors to detect failure, Apex has a leak detectors, salinity/conductivity sensor and flowmeter. You may already have some or all of those parts.

I have all the upgrades to my RODI i just want the 150 GPD upgrade and the vooster pump.
I have the flush valve and the duel DI.
I have a few sonsors and float valves but ill need to get a few solinoids for sure.
Thanks for the list of stuff.
This will help a lot.