RO cleaning?

littlehermit0

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So I finally got my RO filter and I was really sure that I was ready cuz I got the tds pH meters and everything for it, but I never knew that cleaning it would require special cleaning, I just rinsed the filtration with tap water and waited, then the TDS dropped to 0006 ppm, but I didn't know I had to clean with something special, I have nothing special for RO except some things for house cleaning like bleach, soda soap or vinegar and many other, but I've heard that vinegar with water will help, is that true?
 
Mild soap and water is all I use to clean canisters when needed. Then one table spoon of bleach when I disinfect the system.
 
if it's for potable water the lines have to be cleaned and the holding reservoir has to be cleaned periodically or you can get sick and die from drinking contaminted ro water. but a reef tank won't die from contams in the lines or holding tanks, that's why only changing canisters works for reefing alone. the whole system is competing bioslicks with various pathogen inclusions, so some low-level unclean bioslicks from an RO system is the least of a reef tank's concerns.

anyone who is drinking water or giving it to their family from an RO unit that has never had the lines cleaned or exchanged as well as bioslicks removed from the holding tank is risking poisoning people, though you may get lucky for years.

where goes water goes bacteria that get their own feed and set up their own housing as slicks inside any habitable water system. pathogens can easily take up residence as well there. most reef aquarists do not espouse this fact because they've been trained by bottle bac salesmen and forum peers that bacteria can't form in water and remain there unless we're giving them 2 ppm of ammonia to eat everyday.
 
I've never done anything but rinse the canisters when I change resin. Been running the systems for over 8 years this way.
I don't understand what y'all saying, the canister you mean the plastic or the whole filtration for example rinsing the activated carbon?
 
if it's for potable water the lines have to be cleaned and the holding reservoir has to be cleaned periodically or you can get sick and die from drinking contaminted ro water. but a reef tank won't die from contams in the lines or holding tanks, that's why only changing canisters works for reefing alone. the whole system is competing bioslicks with various pathogen inclusions, so some low-level unclean bioslicks from an RO system is the least of a reef tank's concerns.

anyone who is drinking water or giving it to their family from an RO unit that has never had the lines cleaned or exchanged as well as bioslicks removed from the holding tank is risking poisoning people, though you may get lucky for years.

where goes water goes bacteria that get their own feed and set up their own housing as slicks inside any habitable water system. pathogens can easily take up residence as well there. most reef aquarists do not espouse this fact because they've been trained by bottle bac salesmen and forum peers that bacteria can't form in water and remain there unless we're giving them 2 ppm of ammonia to eat everyday.
So... No need to clean forever and just replacing right? I would never drink to water
 
I don't understand what y'all saying, the canister you mean the plastic or the whole filtration for example rinsing the activated carbon?
I just rinse these when I change resin or filters.
PXL_20240420_142925598.jpg
 
How do you do it? You take out the filtration from the canisters or just make it pass directly through the RO filter?

I unscrew the housing and toss the filter if it looks dirty I take it to the kitchen sink and wash it with dishsoap and rinse well then re install. I do not do that very often normally just put a new filter in and reinstall.
 
I don't understand what y'all saying, the canister you mean the plastic or the whole filtration for example rinsing the activated carbon?
Do you have a canister of loose carbon on your RODI unit?? If so, you're not using the proper filters.

Was this unit purchased new or used?
 
Do you have a canister of loose carbon on your RODI unit?? If so, you're not using the proper filters.

Was this unit purchased new or used?
I have 3 canisters, Activated carbon, something in the second and the main big one with something, everything is new and is designed for reef tanks
20240419_122155.jpg
 
I have 3 canisters, Activated carbon, something in the second and the main big one with something, everything is new and is designed for reef tanks
20240419_122155.jpg
On these inline disposable prefilter RO units, nothing needs to be cleaned. When first installing a new carbon prefilter or a new membrane, the first gallon or so of water that passes through the prefilter or membrane should be discarded. That's the only "cleaning" sort of thing that needs to be done.
 
I have 3 canisters, Activated carbon, something in the second and the main big one with something, everything is new and is designed for reef tanks
20240419_122155.jpg

You don't clean those. Just replace as needed. Many of us use systems like the one I posted above. I started with an ro buddy which is similar to the one you have. You just replace the entire filter on those. The one you have is easy and works fine but I make quite a bit of water so I upgraded. You will need to add a canister for DI resin .
 
So I have cleaned a mechanical filter canister out a time or two, but as for anything else...nope. I will (if i remember) let the first several gallons go into the drain after replacing the RO filter but if I don't remember which is normal, it hasn't seemed to hurt anything. After a few minutes the TDS meter on the output goes to about 6-7 ppm before going into my 3 stage DI and that's about it.
 
On these inline disposable prefilter RO units, nothing needs to be cleaned. When first installing a new carbon prefilter or a new membrane, the first gallon or so of water that passes through the prefilter or membrane should be discarded. That's the only "cleaning" sort of thing that needs to be done.
Exactly what I did lol, water passed through everything, the water was black at 1200 ppm tds then instantly dropped to 0006 ppm
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

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