RO/DI auto shut off and booster pump issue

[Boomski]

First post here have been lurking a lot and have learned a ton from everyone so a preemptive thank you.

My issue is I have a 7 stage RO/DI system ( sediment -> carbon -> carbon -> RO membrane -> RO membrane -> DI -> DI -> tank) and I recently moved into a new home with less the stellar water pressure so I bought a booster pump that I installed after the sediment and carbon but before the RO membranes.

The issue that I have is the booster pump shut off switch is designed to detect when a float valve activates, it builds pressure in the product line and the switch detects the back pressure and turns the booster pump off.

Well I have a RO/DI auto shut off that just cuts the water to the RO/DI system off when the water level reaches the sensor at the top of the tank. Thus pressure is never build up in the product line and the booster pump stays on which is a quick way to destroy that booster pump.

Does anyone have any work around? Or any ideas on how to use both a booster pump and a auto shut off?

Thanks

 

[Boomski]

To clarify by tank I mean freshwater holding tank not directly into my reef tank.

 

[Boomski]

Bump?

 

[Hydrored]

I have a similar setup but the water always stays on, put the auto shut off on the output after your DI. I use the marriage saver.

 

[outhouse]

Does anyone have any work around?

YES lol you were so close on your own. so the trick is to have a timer hooked up to the booster pump so it only runs an hour a day, you have a 10g garbage pale as a clean water res with a float up top. this way you keep the bucket filled daily. NOW simply run your electronic floats in sump to a aqualifter that sits on the 10g pale lid which is also level with top of sump. IF your real smart you will buy a kalk reactor and have it 4 inches higher then the sump, and have the aqualifter feed the kalk reactor which gravity feeds the tank when needed. its bullet proof and safe from mechanical failure. been almost a decade like this

 

[Boomski]

I have a similar setup but the water always stays on, put the auto shut off on the output after your DI. I use the marriage saver.

I assume you put the shut off switch before the auto shut off then?

 

[Hydrored]

After, my shut off switch is almost at my RODI storage tank. The auto shut off that’s included with your RODI systems stays plumbed up the same

 

[stacksoner]

First post here have been lurking a lot and have learned a ton from everyone so a preemptive thank you.

My issue is I have a 7 stage RO/DI system ( sediment -> carbon -> carbon -> RO membrane -> RO membrane -> DI -> DI -> tank) and I recently moved into a new home with less the stellar water pressure so I bought a booster pump that I installed after the sediment and carbon but before the RO membranes.

The issue that I have is the booster pump shut off switch is designed to detect when a float valve activates, it builds pressure in the product line and the switch detects the back pressure and turns the booster pump off.

Well I have a RO/DI auto shut off that just cuts the water to the RO/DI system off when the water level reaches the sensor at the top of the tank. Thus pressure is never build up in the product line and the booster pump stays on which is a quick way to destroy that booster pump.

Does anyone have any work around? Or any ideas on how to use both a booster pump and a auto shut off?

Thanks

I use my old aquatec booster pump to drain my skimmer waste and leave it running 24/7 with no issues. Not many people know it, but dry running without damage is a feature of these pumps!

 

[Boomski]

I use my old aquatec booster pump to drain my skimmer waste and leave it running 24/7 with no issues. Not many people know it, but dry running without damage is a feature of these pumps!

Thanks for the info.

My resolution was to get a float value and everything works as intended. I cant imagine float valves tend to fail often and I've moved my RODI station outside so no issues even if it does fail.

Thanks everyone!