joeyhatch11
Well-Known Member
I just swapped my sediment filter, carbon filter and DI cartridge on my Spectrapure unit. Just wondering if there is a new break in process for these filter as this is my first time having to replace them. Thanks Joe
RO/DI break in?
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joeyhatch11
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The TDS coming out of the membrane keeps jumping from 27 down to 14 or 12 then back up to 27/28. Before the swap I was getting 4-5 out of the membrane constantly. That's whats throwing me off here but I am getting 0 out of the DI.
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joeyhatch11
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I let it run for at least 20 minutes before filling up my Brute container. The TDS coming out now is reading 11 so that's good. I'm sure over time it'll drop to the 3-4 that it was before.
Sediment and carbon block filters have nothing to do with TDS, they are there to protect the RO membrane from TSS, suspended solids or big stuff. TDS or dissolved solids are in the 0.0001 micron range so pass right through them to be removed by the membrane.
When you need to replace filters, remove the old sediment and carbon filters, disconnect the line leading from the carbon block up to the RO membrane at the RO end, rinse or wash the empty canisters in hot water, place 1 cap full of regular unscented bleach in the sediment filter housing only, screw the empty housings back on and slowly fill the canisters until water starts to come out of the disconnected line. Let it sit and disconnect the system for about 5 minutes then flush it out unti all smell of chlorine is gone.
Once disinfected, leave the line disconnected and install only the sediment filter leaving the carbon canister empty and run a gallon or two of water through the sediment filter to rinse any glues or binders out so they don't foul the carbon. Next install the carbon block and again run water through it to rinse any carbon fines or dust out so it does not foul the RO membrane. Reinstall the 1/4" line to the RO housing and you are ready to make RO water. When installing a new DI cartridge or resin run the first 1/2 gallon or 3 or 4 bed volumes to waste until you see 0 TDS and you are set.
It is important to flush each filter individually so you don't foul whatever is downstream and it is even more important to disinfect the system to reduce the chances of bacteria or virus growth inside the system.
When you need to replace filters, remove the old sediment and carbon filters, disconnect the line leading from the carbon block up to the RO membrane at the RO end, rinse or wash the empty canisters in hot water, place 1 cap full of regular unscented bleach in the sediment filter housing only, screw the empty housings back on and slowly fill the canisters until water starts to come out of the disconnected line. Let it sit and disconnect the system for about 5 minutes then flush it out unti all smell of chlorine is gone.
Once disinfected, leave the line disconnected and install only the sediment filter leaving the carbon canister empty and run a gallon or two of water through the sediment filter to rinse any glues or binders out so they don't foul the carbon. Next install the carbon block and again run water through it to rinse any carbon fines or dust out so it does not foul the RO membrane. Reinstall the 1/4" line to the RO housing and you are ready to make RO water. When installing a new DI cartridge or resin run the first 1/2 gallon or 3 or 4 bed volumes to waste until you see 0 TDS and you are set.
It is important to flush each filter individually so you don't foul whatever is downstream and it is even more important to disinfect the system to reduce the chances of bacteria or virus growth inside the system.
