RO-DI expert needed

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nitro

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Hello,
On my RO-DI unit I make my water that I need for the week and then the unit drains and is empty for a week or so till I use it again. I want to know if storing the unit dry hurts the DI resin or filters or should the remain wet? Just making sure I am not hurting my stuff....
Thanks, Nitro
 
The resins and filters can stay wet just fine, the Membrane should never be allowed to dry out. Why do you drain it? Just put ball valves on each end and turn them off when you're done. Flush it out when you put it back into use; but I would say most people leave their filters wet as they may only do water changes every 2 weeks to a month so that necessitates leaving water in them (even if they're mounted to the wall).
 
Always leave the canisters full of water, store the system in a cool dark place out of bright lighting and try to use it at least every 10-14 days making as much water as you can each time so it cleanses the membrane.
 
Hello,
Thanks guys I will pick up a valve and just leave it up and ready to go. I asked this because my DI resin is failing much earlier than I expected.
Larry
 
Make sure you bypass the resin and flush the membrane for a few minutes each time you start up the system. If you're worried about DI Resin usage, here's some tips. I'm going to try and explain what my triple TDS meter shows me, so maybe that will help you understand why your resin is being exhausted so quickly.

When you first start up the RO/DI, you want to bypass the Membrane to flush it of surface debris etc... Let this run for a minute or two. Next when you put pressure to the membrane the ratio doesn't immediately reach your target rejection rate, it takes a few minutes to reach that low output. My water is around 350ppm, during the membrane bypass (flush) I'm getting around 300ppm out of the "product" water. If you flipped the bypass off that 300ppm would be going to your DI Resin immediately. It takes about 2 minutes for my membrane to drop from 300ppm down to 5ppm. During this time I have a bypass on my DI Resin which just goes down the drain until I reach 5ppm. At that point I reengage the DI resin and capture the product water into my storage bins.

My suggestion, use 2 bypasses, one on the membrane to flush, and the second before the DI Resin. If you run each bypass for 2 minutes (a total of 2 steps for a total of 4 minutes), you will save a ton of DI resin in the long run. You can verify this yourself with a triple TDS meter (~45$), or take it as an act of faith. Personally I would have opted for the later, but nobody explained that to me when I bought everything!
 
Don't get too concerned about a flush kit on the waste line, they don't do much if anything. You do want to install a tee and ball valve between the RO membrane and the DI though to flush out the TDS creep which has migrated to the treated side of the membrane while it is not in use. TDS creep is inherent with all membranes and flushing the waste does nothing for it since it is on the treated side. This will greatly extend the life of your DI resin. Takes about a minute each time you start the system up.
I would also pass on the inline TDS meters and get and use a good temperature compensated handheld whick costs about the same or less, is much more accurate and more versatile since it can test anywhere, not just in a dedicated spot.
 
Excellent info guys, I totally appreciate all the help.
Nitro
 
If removing your unit from your water supply your will want 3 closed ball valves. One ball valve on your supply line, one on your RODI line (and other pure water lines leaving the membrane) additionally, you will want a closed ball valve on the drain line. YES...keep in a cool, DARK, dry place like AZ said...
 

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