I changed out the RO filters on my unit and Tds are the same after the RO filters as it is coming in. I tried to make sure they are seated properly with no luck Tds coming out still the same. Could I be doing something very simple wrong?
RO/DI help
- Thread starter smh254
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I would double check that that the RO unit is hooked up correctly and that you are in fact measuring the RO output line. One thing that I found by reading this forum is that the longer the RO unit runs the more efficient it becomes. When my water production first begins the water coming out of my membrane is ~20-30 TDS but as it runs will get down to 11TDS. Once it goes through the DI Resin it puts me at 0.
Can you tell us:
1. What RO Unit you have
2. What the TDS of your tap water is
3. What the TDS of the water coming out of the RO unit is
4. How you are testing the TDS (what your process is)
Can you tell us:
1. What RO Unit you have
2. What the TDS of your tap water is
3. What the TDS of the water coming out of the RO unit is
4. How you are testing the TDS (what your process is)
twilliard
Tank pests..
I run 20 or so gallons out of it before testing with a new ro 
Let her run and then test it.
You know its sealed properly when its hard to pull out of the housing
@AZDesertRat can give a lot more insight
Let her run and then test it.
You know its sealed properly when its hard to pull out of the housing
@AZDesertRat can give a lot more insight
OP
OP
smh254
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Here is the unit I have water comes in on the left and exits on the right. The Tds in is 130 the Tds out of the first 3 stagesis 130. The filters I'm using are some I got from a guy at macna. Could these be the wrong filters they look the same as the ones I took out.
OP
OP
smh254
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So I ran to my local fish store and picked up this resin and added it to the Filter now I'm getting 0 tds.[emoji1][emoji1] I have another filter on the top of my unit is it the same resin in that filter? If so do l just pack it the same way I did the other? Thanks for all the help everyone you got my system back up and running for me[emoji106]
Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
The secret to pack it is........... you get a cold Budlight bottle of beer, drink the beer first, not to fast but regular.
Than you take the empty bottle and it is a perfect fit for your canister to pack the resin.
Pack it good and fill to the top, pack it again and fill and close it up.
FYI, No I'm not kidding
Than you take the empty bottle and it is a perfect fit for your canister to pack the resin.
Pack it good and fill to the top, pack it again and fill and close it up.
FYI, No I'm not kidding
What you have in the first 3 vertical canisters is NOT a RO/DI system, it is designed as an RO only system as plumbed with the addition of a little horizontal DI on top. The filter arrangement left to right as designed is sediment filter, carbon block, a second carbon block then it travels up to the RO membrane and finally through the horizontal DI. There should not be a DI cartridge in a vertical canister.
To convert it to a reef quality RO/DI you need to spend a half hour or so removing the canister lids from the top bracket and replumbing them so the flow would now go, 1 micron or less sediment filter, a single 1 micron or less carbon block, up to the RO membrane then back down to the last vertical 20 oz. canister on the right which would then contain the DI cartridge. You could leave the little horizontal on the top but they aren't very effective.
The conversion involves removing the three lids from the top bracket by removing the screws and unscrewing the nylon nipple between the middle and right lid. You would then screw a john guest style 90 degree tube fitting on the outet of the middle lid and into in and out of the righthand lid. Turn the righthand lid 90 degrees so it now faces front to back and fasten the lids back to the bracket. Cut a short piece of tubing and install it from the middle lid outlet leading up to the inlet of the RO membrane then connect the outlet from the RO membrane back down to the inlet of the righthand lid which is now the DI which always follws the RO stage, never before. If you keep the small horizontal DI on top you will now plumb from the new DI outlet up to the inlet on the horizontal but I would also stick a tee and ball valve between the two so you can test the TDS from the first DI independently of the second DI as you will want to change it before it exhausts the second.
To convert it to a reef quality RO/DI you need to spend a half hour or so removing the canister lids from the top bracket and replumbing them so the flow would now go, 1 micron or less sediment filter, a single 1 micron or less carbon block, up to the RO membrane then back down to the last vertical 20 oz. canister on the right which would then contain the DI cartridge. You could leave the little horizontal on the top but they aren't very effective.
The conversion involves removing the three lids from the top bracket by removing the screws and unscrewing the nylon nipple between the middle and right lid. You would then screw a john guest style 90 degree tube fitting on the outet of the middle lid and into in and out of the righthand lid. Turn the righthand lid 90 degrees so it now faces front to back and fasten the lids back to the bracket. Cut a short piece of tubing and install it from the middle lid outlet leading up to the inlet of the RO membrane then connect the outlet from the RO membrane back down to the inlet of the righthand lid which is now the DI which always follws the RO stage, never before. If you keep the small horizontal DI on top you will now plumb from the new DI outlet up to the inlet on the horizontal but I would also stick a tee and ball valve between the two so you can test the TDS from the first DI independently of the second DI as you will want to change it before it exhausts the second.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
I think AZ meant to say the DI should not be in a horizontal position. Don't just trust that your problem is fixed if your DI is bringing the output down to 0. What's the TDS post RO? Depending on the membrane and input TDS could be in the teens all the way down to 0-1 if you are really lucky. I'm not so lucky to have poor water here in the midwest and start at about 370-420 and then bring it down to 3-5 before DI.
I said exactly what I intended. DI should not be before RO and in that configuration it was between the sediment and carbon filters before the RO membrane which will not work. It has a little inefficient horizontal DI after the RO also but horizontal DI short circuits or channels and is not efficient so may never get the TDS to 0.
The keys to a good reef quality RO/DI are an efficient high rejection rate RO membrane, the correct DI resin for the application and lots of contact time to do its job. This is accomplished with a properly plumbed and packed vertical DI with bottom up flow so all water and resin come into contact with each other unlike horizontals.
The keys to a good reef quality RO/DI are an efficient high rejection rate RO membrane, the correct DI resin for the application and lots of contact time to do its job. This is accomplished with a properly plumbed and packed vertical DI with bottom up flow so all water and resin come into contact with each other unlike horizontals.
