RO/DI needed?

[legomaheggos]

Hi again!

I am fairly new to the saltwater hobby. I have always raised Freshwater fish however.

I am now reading that I may need an RO/DI unit. I'm not familiar with these or what I will need. I have a 125 gallon tank and really do not want to puncture or harm any of my plumbing. Can anyone suggest a good system, or if this is even needed? I've already done 1 water change on my salt tank with tap water and sea salt mix. I'm not sure what info is needed here to make a valid suggestion, so if I left anything out, please just let me know.

 

[LILBUDDHA]

First of all CONGRATS .I'm hoping that an LFS didn't give the advice to cycle the tank with tap water treated with dechlorinator .
What do u plan to keep ? Is there live rock or dead rock in the tank ? Do you have well water or city water ?

 

[AZDesertRat]

Water is the single largest ingredient in a reef tank and everything depends on its quality and its stability. You have absolutely zero control over your tap water so it could possibly be safe one day and not safe the next and you would have no idea so Yes, it is necessary for a successful system.

Look no further than here:
Refurbished 90-GPD RODI System

Add a handheld TDS meter for $25 or so and you are ready to make reef quality water. If you don't want to modify plumbing look here for either the feed water adapter or the sink adapter or my personal choice is a brass garden hose wye used to put two hoses on one hose bib with individual ball valves for around $8 at the hardware store and installed on my washing machine cold water supply.

Do not use tap water again! Next water change go to WalMart and get gallon jugs of distilled water until you get your own RO/DI system.

 

[legomaheggos]

I bought a setup that was already established and used the water that came from it to start. The tank/stand/sump/fuge are all about 4 years into cycle, all I've done is water changes. However, all of those were with tap. I don't have a LFS anymore unfortunately. I bought my tank at last one that shut down. Guy was running multiple businesses and was getting overwhelmed, so stopped the fish business.

I am on city water. I currently have Live rock, 2 anemone and 1 star fish with 40 hermit crabs and 20 astrea snails. My fish, if it matters;

2x Blue Tang

2x Ocelarris Clown Fish

1x Yellow tang

1x Coral Beauty

1x Fox Face.

I would like to add some Zoa to the tank as well. I am using a metal halide fixture with 3 bulbs.

The fish responded well to the water change I did this week, as did the anemone.

I have 1x Rose Bubble Tip and 1x Ultra Green Long Tentacle.

 

[saltyphish]

Listen to AZ RO/DI is a necessity in the hobby and you can't go to a better source for advice on RO/Di than AZ

Water is the single largest ingredient in a reef tank and everything depends on its quality and its stability. You have absolutely zero control over your tap water so it could possibly be safe one day and not safe the next and you would have no idea so Yes, it is necessary for a successful system.

Look no further than here:
Refurbished 90-GPD RODI System

Add a handheld TDS meter for $25 or so and you are ready to make reef quality water. If you don't want to modify plumbing look here for either the feed water adapter or the sink adapter or my personal choice is a brass garden hose wye used to put two hoses on one hose bib with individual ball valves for around $8 at the hardware store and installed on my washing machine cold water supply.

Do not use tap water again! Next water change go to WalMart and get gallon jugs of distilled water until you get your own RO/DI system.

 

[legomaheggos]

- Garden hose adapter for tap water hookup

Will I still need the sink adapter you mentioned? I'm sorry. It may be my inexperience, but the middle of your post left me quite confused. I just bought a refractometer for better accuracy also, if that makes a difference.

 

[legomaheggos]

Water is the single largest ingredient in a reef tank and everything depends on its quality and its stability. You have absolutely zero control over your tap water so it could possibly be safe one day and not safe the next and you would have no idea so Yes, it is necessary for a successful system.

Look no further than here:
Refurbished 90-GPD RODI System

Add a handheld TDS meter for $25 or so and you are ready to make reef quality water. If you don't want to modify plumbing look here for either the feed water adapter or the sink adapter or my personal choice is a brass garden hose wye used to put two hoses on one hose bib with individual ball valves for around $8 at the hardware store and installed on my washing machine cold water supply.

Do not use tap water again! Next water change go to WalMart and get gallon jugs of distilled water until you get your own RO/DI system.

Sorry, fairly new to the forum and how the responses alert. Not trying to spam! Couldn't find a delete option for my response to you.

It says it comes with a garden hose adapter. I don't have a huge space to work with to have laying around and waiting. It would be most convenient for me if I could set it up to fill up off my garden hose outside where it connects to my den for water storage. Assuming I would need some jugs as well for storage? Will I need any tubing with this? Sorry for the 100 questions. Very new and no local resources to turn to

 

[LILBUDDHA]

Water is the single largest ingredient in a reef tank and everything depends on its quality and its stability. You have absolutely zero control over your tap water so it could possibly be safe one day and not safe the next and you would have no idea so Yes, it is necessary for a successful system.

Look no further than here:
Refurbished 90-GPD RODI System

Add a handheld TDS meter for $25 or so and you are ready to make reef quality water. If you don't want to modify plumbing look here for either the feed water adapter or the sink adapter or my personal choice is a brass garden hose wye used to put two hoses on one hose bib with individual ball valves for around $8 at the hardware store and installed on my washing machine cold water supply.




Do not use tap water again! Next water change go to WalMart and get gallon jugs of distilled water until you get your own RO/DI system.

Not trying to jack the thread since I think it's relevant .
Got a question . How much chloramine is removed in a typical 4 state ro/di unit ? Does it turn into a gas and not affect the membrane . I used to use a 7 stage unit with a GAC cart behind the carbon block . I see a few ads now pimping out a more expensive chloramine carbon block cartridge . I have no problems using a 5 stage again with a GAC cart but is it really necessary ? Yes there is chloramine in my tap water and it does indeed vary from time to time . I am pretty sure it's a tri- something can't remember the chemical word and flouride .

this was the last report .


TTHM (ppb)[TotalTrihalomethanes –Stage 1]N23(HighestRAA)2 - 74 N/A 80 By-product of drinking waterchlorinationHAA5 (ppb)
[Total HaloaceticAcids – Stage 1]N19(HighestRAA)1.8 - 50.9 N/A 60 By-product of drinking waterdisinfectionTTHM (ppb)
[TotalTrihalomethanes –Stage 2]N19(HighestLRAA)19 - 19 N/A 80 By-product of drinking waterchlorinationHAA5 (ppb)
[Total HaloaceticAcids – Stage 2]N22.7(HighestLRAA)21.9 – 22.7 N/A 60 By-product of drinking waterdisinfection
Chloramines (ppm) N 3.4 1.0 - 4.1 MRDLG= 4 MRDL = 4 Water additive used to controlmicrobesChlorine (ppm) N 2.87 1.5 - 3.5 MRDLG= 4 MRDL =

Thanks

 

[Mike J.]

You do have a washing machine hookup, right. You'll see in this picture the garden hose adapter hooked up to a wye on the cold water for the washing machine. The other wye goes to the washing machine.

In the second pic you'll see the red tube goes to RO/DI filter and the black waste water tube goes down the drain of the washing machine.

Inside the garbage can is a float shut off. I never could understand the numerous posts about RO/DI overflow. This is a failsafe method. You'll also see in the second pic that there's an inline shutoff for the good water, that's so I can shutoff the RO/DI between fill ups.

 

[LILBUDDHA]

- Garden hose adapter for tap water hookup

Will I still need the sink adapter you mentioned? I'm sorry. It may be my inexperience, but the middle of your post left me quite confused. I just bought a refractometer for better accuracy also, if that makes a difference.

The refactometer was a good purchase for making sure the salinty is correct .
A sink adapter connects to most common faucets . U remove the faucet tip (aerator ?) Screw the adaptor in . Screw on the RO/di unit connector . It's too cold to use a ro/di unit outside now . If u have a fancy goosneck type it will not work .

 

[legomaheggos]

You do have a washing machine hookup, right. You'll see in this picture the garden hose adapter hooked up to a wye on the cold water for the washing machine. The other wye goes to the washing machine.

The photos helped visualize it quite a bit. What does the system generally come with and what will require additional purchase to make it work for the washing machine hookup? I could do that much more realistically in my home than I could having it sitting in the kitchen. Seems like that might be extremely heavy to try to move room to room as well?

 

[Mike J.]

Everything you need, except the wye, will come with the RO/DI unit. I mix my saltwater in five gallon buckets so the garbage can never moves. If you wanted a garbage can that moves, they make coasters with wheels for them.

 

[legomaheggos]

Everything you need, except the wye, will come with the RO/DI unit. I mix my saltwater in five gallon buckets so the garbage can never moves. If you wanted a garbage can that moves, they make coasters with wheels for them.

What is the purpose of the trash can in your photo? Or am I just looking at it wrong? Do you just filter all the water into it and the pour it into the buckets?

WYE? Is that the Y adapter from the washer?

 

[AZDesertRat]

You will get everything you need with the RO/DI to adapt to a garden hose thread which is the same as a washng machine. You can find the garden hose wye at any hardware store or even WalMart. I suggest the brass version versus the plastic or pot metal variety as it is more robust and will last longer without leaking. Again the only thing you will need is a handheld TDS meter such as the HM Digital TDS-3, TDS-4TM or AP-1, around $25.

 

[legomaheggos]

You will get everything you need with the RO/DI to adapt to a garden hose thread which is the same as a washng machine. You can find the garden hose wye at any hardware store or even WalMart. I suggest the brass version versus the plastic or pot metal variety as it is more robust and will last longer without leaking. Again the only thing you will need is a handheld TDS meter such as the HM Digital TDS-3, TDS-4TM or AP-1, around $25.

You must think I am a complete moron at this point with my questions!

How would you recommend storing the water? Large garbage can like pictured above or individual buckets? Any rule on how much salt to use in general per 5 gallons?

 

[Mike J.]

When mixing saltwater it is generally 1/2 cup salt per gallon (+ or -). I have a container with a line on it that has been figured out. Makes subsequent water mixing much easier.

 

[legomaheggos]

When mixing saltwater it is generally 1/2 cup salt per gallon (+ or -). I have a container with a line on it that has been figured out. Makes subsequent water mixing much easier.

Thanks! Good to know the formula for proper mixture!

In your water setup from RO/DI to the buckets, what role does your garbage can play in between?

 

[AZDesertRat]

It all depends on how much water you use and want to keep on hand. My main system is a 100G with a 30G sump and I also have a 16G nano reef. I have an auto topoff system on the main reef that stores 23 gallons of RO/DI in a Rubbermaid recycling can with a lid so it stays fresh and go though maybe 15-20 gallons a week there. I also keep 5- 5 gallon drinking water type plastic jugs of RO/DI around for water changes. To mix the saltwater I have a Rubbermaid Roughneck trash can on wheels I roll in, make the new saltwater in then store in a closet when not in use. Large water mixing and changing station are nice but I don'thabe that much room or find a need for that much water all at once. I can make around 125-150 gallons of RO/DI a day using a booster pump so don't keep much more than I need around all the time.

Each salt brand is different and they have their approximate amounts printed on the bag, box or bucket. It is best to add slightly less, let the water mix for a few minutes to an hour then top the salt up using your refractmeter to test it as you add salt.

 

[legomaheggos]

It all depends on how much water you use and want to keep on hand. My main system is a 100G with a 30G sump and I also have a 16G nano reef. I have an auto topoff system on the main reef that stores 23 gallons of RO/DI in a Rubbermaid recycling can with a lid so it stays fresh and go though maybe 15-20 gallons a week there. I also keep 5- 5 gallon drinking water type plastic jugs of RO/DI around for water changes. To mix the saltwater I have a Rubbermaid Roughneck trash can on wheels I roll in, make the new saltwater in then store in a closet when not in use. Large water mixing and changing station are nice but I don'thabe that much room or find a need for that much water all at once. I can make around 125-150 gallons of RO/DI a day using a booster pump so don't keep much more than I need around all the time.

Each salt brand is different and they have their approximate amounts printed on the bag, box or bucket. It is best to add slightly less, let the water mix for a few minutes to an hour then top the salt up using your refractmeter to test it as you add salt.

Sounds like a plan. I appreciate the time and effort in your responses. You and Mike have been a great help. This can be a very overwhelming hobby to get started with. Just when you think you're ready and good to go, you find out you need something else .

 

[Mike J.]

RO/DI water has very low ions and will adsorb dust and everything from the air; it is best to keep it covered with no light also. Before running RO/DI water I flush the membrane for a minute then fill the garbage can all the way up. The in line shut off valve is to shut off the RO/DI unit until I'm ready to run it again; you don't want TDS creep by letting the RO/DI run a little at a time. If I'm going to mix a lot of water I have brute cans on wheels that I mix the saltwater in. You should store RO/DI water in a separate container than you use to mix saltwater.