RO/DI or Tap water?

andreasch

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
68
Reaction score
29
What state or country do you live in
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello fellow hobbyists,

am about to start my first reef tank and i would love your opinions on the type of water is the best to use. From people i asked around, i got different questions like "you MUST use RODI", "is better to use RODI", "i never used RODI and never had problem" etc etc.. So all these confused me on the right answer to this question. So i would like to get your answers to this in order to either find the correct answer or to get confused more :P

And my second question, in case you suggest RODI water, what is a good RODI system you could suggest me for a 600 liters tank (+ around 70 liters sump), and is there a way to minimize the wasted water of the RODI system? I read somewhere that u waste around 4l for every liter you produce..
 
Have a look on youtube at inappropriare reefer. He started his system with tapwater then went to rodi. Have a look at how that reduced his problems with cyanobacteria, dinoflagellates etc.

As to how to reduce rodi waste water, choose a system with two inline ro membranes. This will nearly halve the waste water.
 
You're gonna have a bad time if you don't go RODI (MOST likely, if you miraculously have zero TDS tap with no chlorine/chloramines you'll probably be fine but hey, you should probably buy a lotto ticket too if you're that lucky heh. How many stages you want typically depends on how bad your tap water is (TDS). As well as whether or not you have chloramines (disinfectant stronger and more persistent than chlorine) present in your tap water. Find those things out and we can help you make a better choice. As to where to buy it, check the sponsors, there are MANY with good systems (Bulk Reef Supply, Marine Depot, etc, etc), you can even go cheap, what matters more is the membranes and filters you're passing the water through to get rid of the crap that'll cause you countless headaches down the road if you keep loading your tank with them...

Side Note: for your first tank, you're gonna get a lot of STRONG recommendations to watch BRS's 52 Weeks of Reefing. I'd agree it's the best primer I've found for a new hobbyist. If you can, finish it while your tank is still dry (heck if it was possible, before you buy a thing but I know most of us don't start researching until there's water in there)
 
Last edited:
Do you HAVE to use RODI water.....no. If you contact your water company they should be able to give you a breakdown as to the chemical makeup of your tap water. From there you can decide if RODI is needed. That being said, I would never start/run a reef tank without using RODI. It is relatively cheap to buy/make your own and it provides you the safety of knowing your water is free from any unwanted substances.
 
IMO, cyano looks amazing under actenics. Use tap water :)
 
As for waste water, this hobby isn’t cheep and RO waste watter is probably the cheapest part of the hobby.

As for the introduction of contaminants in freshly mixed saltwater, that may or may not be a killer but probably will.

IMO the real issue is evaporation topoff water. My tank uses about 40L/ week of topoff water. That’s about 2,000L /year into a 500L tank. Even trace and unmeasurable amounts of contaminants metals like copper or arsenic or lead will build up over time as they don’t evaporate with the water. Even with regular water changes, whatever persistent contaminants that are in the water will accumulate over time.
 
Like others have said RO/DI is the #1. If not have your water tested, TDS is not a test, my home depending on where my local water company is pulling it from this month is around 100 but smells like sewage. My old office from the tap Nitrates where always between 5 and 10 ppm. My new office is around 2 ppm.
 
There are so many different sources of water in the world, treatment plants, policies of doing things, shared wells, private wells ect. The water at the house down the street from you may not be the same quality as yours let alone across the world.

A very very very small percentage of people can use tap water, there are some places where the water coming out of the tap is under 10, but even those people probably should use RO/DI to get 0 it's just the contaminants are so small they can mostly get away without it. Personally I change my DI as soon as the TDS hits 1. Fortunately for me that doesn't happen often as the private well I am on is really high quality. Others will have to change their DI every couple of months if not sooner and the source water is more dangerous.
 
For years I had a “successful” reef using tap water.

Honestly, It was difficult at times dealing with cyano, dino, ich, etc etc etc.. And During my research water “purity” plays a major part in the overall success of battling or preventing almost every bacteria, algae or issue.

I purchased a 75g @Bulk Reef Supply w/drinking water rodi system and installed it LAST NIGHT!

We have a baby that only drinks purified bottle water for his formula so financially it makes sense.

It comes with a pressurized holding tank to deliever RO water to a faucet, and I have it plumbed to run RODI water to my tank. (Rodi water isn’t healthy to drink)

For me it Reduced overall expenses of bottled water, and add purified reef water to the tank.

I’m happy with the quality and ease of install and recommend you get one.

600 liters is about 160 gallons; I would recommend the water saver add on for 150 gallons a day RODI water. It will double the output of rodi water created with out increasing the waste water. Also if waste water is a concern, run the waste water outside and use it to water the garden!
 
if you have the room for a container under or near your tank I would highly reccomend against plumbing directly to a float valve. Top two reasons being TDS creep and all mechanical things fil and when your float valve does you will have a wet floor and a brackish tank.
 
I used tap water on my first tank, will never do it again. Algae problem after algae problem. Eventually started replacing with ro/di water during water changes and watched the algae problems slowly go away It's just not worth it. I am still new to this hobby and don't know a lot. But that is one thing I won't do ever again.
 
There are a few areas in the country where tap water is uncontaminated enough to be able to be used in a reef tank.

Here in Central Florida, that is definitely not the case. We have appreciable levels of nitrates and phosphates in the water. Heck, we probably have pesticides and drugs in it too. And I would just bet that many, if not all, public water systems have some copper in the water.

Make things easy on yourself and run an RODI system. I use a 6 stage BRS system. The 6 stage system is a bit more expensive to buy but about the same to run. Instead of one carbon block, I have two. And they are cheap to replace. I have two DI canisters in series. That way, I can use one up completely. Move canister 2 to position 1. Re pack canister 1 and put in the 2 spot.
 
Yeah i would stay away from tap water unless you have a tds reader and its fine. It could cause a lot of problems down the road
 
Another thing to keep in mind other than all that has been mentioned, which are actaully all you'd need to not run tap. Alk will be a issue if you run tap water unless you plan to run at a high level or want to adjust with acid to lower. Any salt mix you buy will add there claimed Alk to the tap water alk, so a tap water at 7dkh alk with a salt mix at 8dkh will result in a 15 DKH total mix.
 
There’s a couple people in our local club that have really low tds from their tap and only use the di. The di doesn’t reject water the way the ro does so there’s no waste but the do go through di resin quicker which is more costly than the water wasted from the ro.

Personally I use this system.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/6-stage-150gpd-plus-water-saver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

It cuts down on the waste water, but I don’t think so much about the waste because I have a long 100’ line that runs it to the tree in my front yard.
 
I used to use tap water. My local fish store does. However, he also has yearly outbreaks of algea and cyno...

I am a believer in RO-DI water.. But if money is a concern, you can get a RO unit dirt cheap.
 
Tap water is generally not clean. Not "clean" in the sense of "as you would find it falling out of the sky" kind of clean (though even that isn't really all that clean sometimes...). The water most of us get into our homes comes from some sort of treatment plant. In that treatment plant, they not only clean water of anything harmful that it may have in it, they also add things to the water to keep it safe to drink as it travels from the plant, through various pipes and such, into your home. The additives can be many and will vary not only for each treatment plant, but also potentially for each house (because every house has specific pipes and such that may impact the water quality). The two primary things that concern us reefers are generally chlorine or chloramines. Both of these additives are toxic to many organisms (thus why they are added) and should be removed for the best possible chance of success in a reef aquarium (which generally contain numerous delicate lifeforms - microscopic and larger). Beyond those two chemicals, however, are potentially other undesirable things - nitrate, phosphate, silica, and other "heavy metals" could all be in your tap water. Each of these things may be okay (because their levels are low), but they also may not. These are all generally lumped into the measure of "TDS".
That's why some people can have success with tap water, while others do not. To really discover whether you could have any chance at a successful reef tank using tap water, you would want to find a recent water report for your area. These are generally available on the website of your water service company.
(For more info on the chemistry of all this, see this article by @Randy Holmes-Farley.)

what is a good RODI system you could suggest me for a 600 liters tank (+ around 70 liters sump)
There are several options out there - BRS being the one I use myself. But even there, there are multiple options that vary in price and functionality. Which specific system is optimal for you (or more precisely; your water) will depend upon the findings in that water report - the worse your water, the more expensive unit you will need. And, of course, the worse your water, the more you would "need" an RO/DI unit...
Normally, other options include buying water from your LFS or another local reefer and storing it until needed, but at the tank size you are talking that's not going the be a realistic option for you, I wouldn't think.

is there a way to minimize the wasted water of the RODI system?
Yes!
The waste-water is a result of the RO membrane stage (other stages - however many you get - are just "flow through" and have no rejection water). The RO stage uses this "waste water" to carry contaminates out of the membrane, which prolongs the life of the membrane (allowing them to last up to a year - or more - instead of weeks or months). It's possible to use multiple membranes to "re-filter" the waste water. This has the effect of concentrating the contaminates even more (leaving you with more RO water). Any RO/DI unit should be able to be upgraded in this way. That upgrade can happen up-front, or in the future.
Another thing that can help with controlling waste water is ensuring that your water pressure is appropriate for the membrane(s). It's not uncommon for residential units to have water pressure lower than is ideal for RO membranes (especially if you are running two) and adding a booster pump into the mix can result in long-term savings - not only in less water used, but also in the cost of membranes over the life of the system.
 
Last edited:
Very good writing DHL! The only thing I would caution about a booster pump is if you have chloramines and add a booster pump you may add more water/chloramines than your chloramine filters can handle and allow chloramines to hit your membrane cutting its life short. I finally had to go to the BRS chloramine monster. My water is unique in that from the tap my total and free chlorine average 3 to 4 ppm. Which is higher than I keep my pool in the back yard. You can buy the free and total chlorine strips at your local pool shop. Chloramines is the devil!
 
Thanks everyone for your replies and your help.
My LFS suggested me this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/391662709517?ul_noapp=true

but correct me if am wrong, but this system isnt just for RO water and not RODI? And if i go to RO water is still ok or it needs to be also deionized water?
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top